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  #1  
Old 11/21/12, 12:25 AM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
Posts: 362
hoop house problems, poles in the ground?

So i got busy, didn't put the hoop house in yet. i ordered the 8 foot sides. heres the prob. the poles are 10 foot. need to be pushed in the ground about 3 feet. what do you think. ground is still dry from the summer.
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  #2  
Old 11/21/12, 12:30 AM
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Location: Eastern North Carolina
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What's the problem exactly?
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  #3  
Old 11/21/12, 12:33 AM
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Location: West Central Arkansas
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Dug a hole to bury a horse last week. Went down six feet dry as it is up on top. I am putting up my hoophouse as well.Eight foot sides. I got me some two inch pipe and set those in two feet deep with concrete. Put my side pieces into those then secured them in with screws. I tamped down six inches or so of river rock around each peice of pipe and watered it in. Then filled the rest with concrete. My side poles are 1 3/8 inces in diameter so they slid in real easy. Just my .02
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  #4  
Old 11/21/12, 12:46 AM
Living in the Hills
 
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Location: South Dakota
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Just out of curiosity, & off topic, What kind of poles? We did a hoop house with pvc pipe 3 years ago. First year it was good, second year the pvc began shattering. Last year we took it down, still have the wood ends & bottom frame & we're trying to decide what to use next year.

For a base, we used a post hole digger, sank landscape timbers & cemented them in, screwed 2x6 to those to make the base & secured the pvc with conduit wall clamps. I just left the pvc 10 foot long & covered it with a 20 foot piece of plastic, using lathe to secure plastic to the 2x6s. Worked great until the 72 mph straight line wind gust hit. We're thinking all wood frame this time, or metal.

Last edited by Cheryl in SD; 11/21/12 at 12:50 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11/21/12, 05:39 AM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: No. Cent. AR
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Most interesting. I built 2 hoop greenhouses in the Black Hills using PVC slipped over rebar and then attached to 3' high board sides. Used UV treated woven poly as a cover and after 12 years they were still in grand shape. Not a shatter or crack in any of the PVC. The covering seems to be a critical factor in PVC life span. High winds nor heavy snow never seemed to bother or damage them at all.
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  #6  
Old 11/21/12, 06:01 AM
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Location: On a dirt road in Missouri
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Maybe an auger style bit? I know what you are trying to accomplish, but I don't have a firm grip on the materials. Are they hollow metal tubes bent in an arc? or some type of sectional where you have a straight shaft that is driven into the ground with hollow arch tubes that slip over it. Either way, getting anything 3' into the ground that isn't solid is going to be a tough road to hoe.
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  #7  
Old 11/21/12, 06:38 AM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
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metal poles, 10 foot long, need to go down 30 inches. i think the poles are 2 3/8. i was thinking post driver? but 30 inches is a long way up and 10 foot is way high. i will need to put in about 30
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  #8  
Old 11/21/12, 07:31 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,862
Hi, Randy. Don't know if you'll remember me by my forum name but I'm your neighbor, about 7 miles NE of your house.

Did I have the hoop houses when you and one of your foster kids came to visit?
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  #9  
Old 11/21/12, 10:41 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 6,175
Run a sprinkler in the area to get the ground wet.
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  #10  
Old 11/21/12, 10:59 AM
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Location: Eastern North Carolina
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You need to DIG the holes
You'll never be able to drive them like a wooden post,, unless they are VERY heavy walled.

The odds of driving them AND getting them in a good straight line are pretty slim anyway
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  #11  
Old 11/21/12, 02:43 PM
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Location: SW Michigan
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Soaker hoses and a post hole digger.
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  #12  
Old 11/21/12, 03:42 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
Posts: 362
hey mogal, no i dont think you did. thats been a few years ago. you have a new HT neighbor. moved in on cr 2006 i think. i don't remember what road you live on?
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  #13  
Old 11/21/12, 03:46 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
Posts: 362
yes crownranch 10 foot strait poles. arch will start at about 8 feet up.
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  #14  
Old 11/21/12, 07:04 PM
 
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Location: Washington, USA
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Can you drive rebar instead and slip the poles over the rebar? You'd want to cut off 30" from each end of the pole.
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  #15  
Old 11/21/12, 09:23 PM
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Location: On a dirt road in Missouri
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The poles sound like the kind we had installed for our goat fence. The fencing guy had a pile driver and could drive a 10' pole 5' into the ground. They were very thick walled. I dont think I could drive one in using a front end loader or ordinary post driver. I would consider digging, renting, or hiring out.
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  #16  
Old 11/21/12, 09:25 PM
 
Join Date: May 2007
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Cut you a piece of 2" pvc pipe about 6ft long--adapt one end down to a water source and glue a 2" couplin on the other end which will make it wash out a 2 1/2" hole----wash the pipe down 30". Attach 2 1ft levels towards the top so you can keep it level going into the dirt.
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  #17  
Old 11/22/12, 10:55 AM
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Location: Williamsburg, Virginia
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Our hoophouse had metal poles, to hit them down into the ground we tried two things. One, hitting a board on top, so we would damage the hollow pole.....Ended up with alot of split boards. Ended making our own invention: a large metal bolt with a bunch of washers underneath it to spread the weight that could slot down into the pole. Real old and thick, only bent them a little after putting all the poles in the ground.
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  #18  
Old 11/22/12, 05:50 PM
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: maine
Posts: 2,324
Johnnys sells a cap type thing that I saw in use to drive posts that the sidewall posts set down into and bolted.

4lb hammer. In Maine. The guy did have an arm on him. I think he knew he didn't have big rocks.
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  #19  
Old 11/22/12, 05:55 PM
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Location: NW PA
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We installed a purchased hoop house kit a couple years ago and our poles slipped into short poles that were hammered into the ground first and were bolted together. The short poles were driven in with a special tool they sent us. It was slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the pole and slipped inside it and than the top part was bigger than the pole and rested on top of it if that makes sense. It was a solid piece of metal and you hammered on that and it did not distort the pipe any when you were done. We drove them down several feet and I don't remember the ground being wet or dry - in other words we didn't do anything special and didn't have to many problems. Because the pipes we were driving in were shorter they were easier to work with and we didn't have to stand on a ladder to try to drive them. The short pipes were bolted to 2" x 12" skirting boards and than the long side pipes went down into that and were fastened with self tapping screws to tie it all together.
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  #20  
Old 11/22/12, 09:32 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
Posts: 362
After careful consideration and testing. I have laid it all out. It took me a while to get it all strait and square. i put in fence posts every 6 feet. The plan is to fill buckets of water and let them leak out slowly where i am going to put a pole. hopefully that will soften up the ground. I took a pole and a post driver and pounded it in the ground to just see how hard it was do. It was not too bad. i have a college student to help. it will be like 32 poles. wish me luck. a friend said he will bring the track hoe if i need it.
randy
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