Dry wall and old wall paper advice needed

TRAILRIDER · #1 08/31/12, 03:16 PM

Well it seems that the wall paper in our small hallway was glued onto a bare drywalled wall. I have been removing the wall paper by spraying with a mix of very hot water and fabric softener then gently peeling the paper. (Trying not to get it very wet, just enough.) Some came off cleaner and better than other parts. Those not so good parts removed small bits of drywall and sometimes even the tape underneath. I'm wondering if spackling and sanding along with some glue for the tape bits is a good idea. I'm not really up to redoing all the drywall (have never done drywall myself). Its a small area maybe 6-8 foot long hallway. I plan on painting it after I prep it. Thanks for any advice you might have. And if you can suggest a brand of spackle?

Rick · #2 08/31/12, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRAILRIDER

Well it seems that the wall paper in our small hallway was glued onto a bare drywalled wall. I have been removing the wall paper by spraying with a mix of very hot water and fabric softener then gently peeling the paper. (Trying not to get it very wet, just enough.) Some came off cleaner and better than other parts. Those not so good parts removed small bits of drywall and sometimes even the tape underneath. I'm wondering if spackling and sanding along with some glue for the tape bits is a good idea. I'm not really up to redoing all the drywall (have never done drywall myself). Its a small area maybe 6-8 foot long hallway. I plan on painting it after I prep it. Thanks for any advice you might have. And if you can suggest a brand of spackle?

I have heard it is better to mix your "patch" from powder form rather than using spackle.

Bearfootfarm · #3 08/31/12, 05:26 PM

Quote:

some glue for the tape

You don't need glue for sheetrock tape.

Just spread a coat of joint compund, stick the tape to that, then put another layer of compound over it.

Once it dries, you can add one more layer of compound as a "finish" coat

Miss Kay · #4 08/31/12, 07:09 PM

A couple of light coats are better than one thick one.. Put a light coat, let it dry, and then wipe over it with a damp rag to smooth it. You may be able to find some video's on youtube to show how to apply it. After the last coat dries, gently sand until it is smooth when you run your hand over it. Be sure to use primer before you paint.

siberian · #5 08/31/12, 07:22 PM

have some good advice already. I would just buy a bucket of mud, even the light mix. Depending on how wide you have to cover, make sure the blades are several inches bigger that the repair. Pawn shops are ofton a good place to find these. First coat real light, second coat covers all, light sanding, third and final coat. , sand, prime before painting, ( a cheap primer or celing paint is fine for this. Its not that hard to make it look decent.

Alice In TX/MO · #6 08/31/12, 08:16 PM

I'm really fond of the pink spackle. It turns white when it's dry. Premixed, the right consistency, and just an all around good product.

DAP Drydex Dry Time Indicator Spackling,1-Quart Tub #12330 - Amazon.com

Forlane · #7 08/31/12, 09:34 PM

Be careful, Spackle is designed for small sized holes like nails and screws. When it dries it shrinks, it is not designed to be used for large areas or it will crack. For large areas use Joint compound.

janetn · #8 09/01/12, 06:40 AM

Whip your mud first makes life a whole lot easier - a drywaller told me that secret

TRAILRIDER · #9 09/01/12, 06:59 AM

Thanks everyone. I'll give it a try!

Bearfootfarm · #10 09/01/12, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janetn

Whip your mud first makes life a whole lot easier - a drywaller told me that secret

That's very true.

I always added 8-12 OZ of water to a 5 gallon bucket of joint compound and used a drill to turn the beater, trying to not get too much air mixed in.

You want a smooth, creamy consistancy
Always scrape down the sides of the bucket, and don't let it dry because those little lumps will drive you crazy when trying to get it smooth.

When finished for the day. level the top of what's left in the bucket, and pour a thin layer of water on top.

Always keep the lid on, and work out of a smaller container.

The little rectangular pans they sell are perfect, and makes it easier to keep your tools clean, which is also very important

Jokarva · #11 09/01/12, 07:26 PM

I did all the drywall repair here (joint compound, not spackle) after some remodeling was done....if I can do it anyone can. Watch some YouTube videos, it's messy but not difficult.

Or you can do what we did in our first house when I ripped half the drywall off taking down wallpaper....put some beadboard over it

Jim Bunton · #12 09/01/12, 11:58 PM

If you have torn paper you should use a product designed for sealing it before attempting to patch. A good one that is widely available is Gardz made by Zinsser. RustOleum.com

After that depending the extent of the damage I would use spackle. Ace sells a good one. I personally don't care for the light weight stuff. If the walls need more of a skim coat then just repairs go with all purpose ready mix joint compound.

Jim

chickenmommy · #13 09/02/12, 11:55 AM

Thank you Jim Bunton!! I was almost hyperventilating by the time I got to your post worried to death no one was going to tell him to seal that bare torn drywall paper!

I removed and reinstalled wallpaper for 25 years. I know a few things

I would also invest in a gallon bucket of joint compound instead of spackle for every reason posted in previous posts.

TRAILRIDER · #14 09/02/12, 09:37 PM

Thank you Jim, I will look for that Gardz. I have been procrastinating and haven't started to patch it yet. But while I was procrastinating I did get a bunch of apples dehydrated and about 12 qts of minestrone soup canned! Since I won't be going to town for a couple of days yet, I'll just can and bake tomorrow too : )

Bearfootfarm · #15 09/02/12, 11:29 PM

Quote:

I would also invest in a gallon bucket of joint compound

Save yourself a few trips to the store and buy a 5 gallon bucket