Got the soil test back ... <sad>

SkizzlePig · #1 04/24/12, 01:09 PM

So, we took soil samples from all around our plantings and pasture areas. The soil test came back with 150lbs/acre of Nitrogen amendment necessary. So, I does a lil' searchy-search (thanks to US Composting Council) and find a bulk compost supplier near our property.

Their compost has 0.29% N ... that's 12lbs/ton!

I'll need 12 tons/acre! Uh ... NEXT!

Should I do some compost and some green manure it for a season? Should I find a new compost supplier? Should I set fire to my life? What do you think?

See our pitiful soil test results

sammyd · #2 04/24/12, 01:15 PM

just spread some urea

**Cabin Fever** · #3 04/24/12, 01:20 PM

I wouldn't use compost to meet my N requirements. I'd use compost to improve my soil quality. If you're looking for an organic source to meet your N requirement, I'd suggest looking for some livestock manure in your area. Manure will have an N content about 10-times higher than most composts.

InvalidID · #4 04/24/12, 01:26 PM

I'm with Cabin Fever on this one. Compost uses up a lot of the N in the composting process. Raw manure on the other hand still has quite a bit in it.

Hagler's Farm · #5 04/24/12, 01:41 PM

My first question would be what are you trying to do with this land? Who says you need nitrogen and on what basis? Some arbitrary government numbers? I haven't bothered testing my soil because I'm not going to wast thousands of dollars on fertilizer, but rather have been finding things that naturally grow well on my soil, growing green manure, and incorperating my own livestocks manure and bedding.

BTW If you really want to add 150lbs of nitrogen to the soil I've read that certain clovers will achive that.

topside1 · #6 04/24/12, 01:51 PM

Like Sammy said, best I can recall Urea is 256% Nitrogen...it's also cheap...Topside

InvalidID · #7 04/24/12, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hagler's Farm

My first question would be what are you trying to do with this land? Who says you need nitrogen and on what basis? Some arbitrary government numbers? I haven't bothered testing my soil because I'm not going to wast thousands of dollars on fertilizer, but rather have been finding things that naturally grow well on my soil, growing green manure, and incorperating my own livestocks manure and bedding.

BTW If you really want to add 150lbs of nitrogen to the soil I've read that certain clovers will achive that.

I've been over seeding clovers like mad in my pastures. The areas where the clovers have formed decent stands are much greener and better looking then the rest. Of course I've been using some of my chicken litter and cow manure in those areas too.

(I know, chicken litter is too hot. I mix it with manure and only spread it during the rainy season though. Being in the PNW means I only get half of whatever I add to the soil... LOL)

SteveO · #8 04/24/12, 01:58 PM

if you N is that low what else is low look at the whole picture for modifications
plant clover it will raise your n level
Steve

**Cabin Fever** · #9 04/24/12, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by topside1

Like Sammy said, best I can recall Urea is 256% Nitrogen...it's also cheap...Topside

Urea is 46% nitrogen.

sammyd · #10 04/24/12, 03:11 PM

chicken litter is an amazing fertilizer. Where you can get it from the big barns it's the way to go.

Bearfootfarm · #11 04/24/12, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sammyd

chicken litter is an amazing fertilizer. Where you can get it from the big barns it's the way to go.

It works, but you still need tons per acre to make much real difference in nitrogen content

Paquebot · #12 04/24/12, 03:51 PM

Chicken manure, 1.1% nitrogen.
Horse and sheep, 0.7%.
Cow and duck, 0.6%.
Pig, 0.5%.

Martin

geo in mi · #13 04/24/12, 03:55 PM

Indeed, what do you want to do with the land in question? Return to pasture? Grazing horses or cows? Convert it to gardening? Cropping? Make hay? Most pastures will be deficient in nitrogen, because it was taken off by the animals who ate it, or carried off the property in the form of bales.(Or, over the years, leached into the water supply) You have to keep replacing lost nitrogen.........(the soil test was probably right on for pasture needs yearly--even a lawn takes three pounds N per year per thousand if the grass is carried away and not mulched)

There will be no instant solutions, and bulk urea applications might be the worst, since it can volitalize in the rain--lose half its value, and then you would have gotten less bang for the buck than what you thought. Once you make a basic plan of use, then you can make a recovery program(it it won't be instant) for it. Probably your best adviser should be your county ag extension agent, who will be more familiar with your soil type and the fertilizer suppliers in your area. It will also depend on the quality and stand of the grass you already have. If patchy, full of weeds or bad grasses(not liked by animals or hay dealers....) it may actually be time to plow it up and get a restart. Maybe a mix of grasses and legumes would be best, like the small white clover and a Kentucky bluegrass--but that all depends on your area, climate, and soil--and future use.

Organic solutions will be slower and will require a much more detailed plan than spreading fertilzers. You may have to raise your pH to enable legume planting, innoculation with bacteria, waiting longer for rock phosphates and minerals to work into the soil and take effect, etc, etc.

So, welcome to farming. Start with a plan.

geo

PaulNKS · #14 04/24/12, 03:55 PM

Urea is a decent nitrogen, however, it takes longer to become available to the plant than ammonium nitrate which is the traditional chemical nitrogen. The other problem with urea is you can't apply it when it is hot or humid because it will vaporize before it can be absorbed into the soil and broken down into ammonium nitrate which is what the plants take up.

Compost has little nitrogen affect. Raw manure not much better. Raw manure does more for adding organics than nitrogen.

When you do a soil test done by someone reputable (such as the extension service), before they give you any recommendation of fertilizer needs, they will take into account what you have growing, and what you expect to do with the are tested. Different grasses and different crops require different levels of nitrogen, phosphate, potash, sulfur, etc...

Also, if your ph level is off, you will be wasting money on the nitrogen. If your ph is too far off, you can put all the nitrogen you want on the ground but the plants will not benefit because of the ph.

The point.... you can't just base your soil needs on nitrogen alone. Take into account the purpose of the area tested and the ph as well. The ph level is just as important as the nitrogen levels.

wally · #15 04/24/12, 03:57 PM

Urea is not cheap..check with your local co-op and they can price it to you by the ton and can add any other minerals you may need. They might loan you a buggy to attach to your tractor to spread at no cost..

Tabitha · #16 04/24/12, 03:58 PM

Crimson clover and Ladino. It won't happen over night.

256%? How can something be over 100%?

Michael W. Smith · #17 04/24/12, 03:58 PM

Why do you want to make more work for yourself? Depending on what kind of animals you have - look into rotational grazing.

The theory is you put your livestock in small paddocks - just large enough that they can eat through it in about a 12 hour limit. You then move them onto the next paddock.

Some people even follow up with different kinds of animals. Like - you use cows for the first paddock and then follow up with chickens. (The chickens live in a portable pen that you lock up at night.) The chickens break up the manure and scatter it while cutting down the future fly population,

Let the animals spread their own manure. Some people do this all winter long - even in the colder areas.

Minelson · #18 04/24/12, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael W. Smith

Why do you want to make more work for yourself? Depending on what kind of animals you have - look into rotational grazing.

The theory is you put your livestock in small paddocks - just large enough that they can eat through it in about a 12 hour limit. You then move them onto the next paddock.

Some people even follow up with different kinds of animals. Like - you use cows for the first paddock and then follow up with chickens. (The chickens live in a portable pen that you lock up at night.) The chickens break up the manure and scatter it while cutting down the future fly population,

Let the animals spread their own manure. Some people do this all winter long - even in the colder areas.

I do this but not in a 12 hour period...more like a 30 day rotation. I have 3 pastures that I move my 2 horses on rotation about every 30 days (when there is grass) I also harrow the pastures at least twice a year to break things up and spread things around. I do the harrowing when they are not on that particular pasture. This also helps on worm load in the horses

KrisD · #19 04/25/12, 12:34 AM

Drink lots of water and pee in the pasture. It's free, saves water from flushing an is full of nitrogen lol!

Paquebot · #20 04/25/12, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisD

Drink lots of water and pee in the pasture. It's free, saves water from flushing an is full of nitrogen lol!

For the amount of nitrogen produced by that method, may be more efficient to just import a few tons of tea to arrive at the goal. I love tea but when a cow can produce enough urine in one go when it might take me 2 days, idea is good but practicality fails miserably!

Martin