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  #1  
Old 03/03/12, 12:05 PM
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Burying Ferrocement Water Tank?

I've been planning my water storage options on the homestead for awhile now, and I can't find any information about building ferrocement for underground use.

Any suggestions? Do's or don't do's? Any advice would be appreciated!

Joshua
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Old 03/03/12, 12:31 PM
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I didnt do the classic ferro cement mesh Just built a rectangular tank like a small basement.
4 inch thick walls and 6inch rebar mesh.
I did use 7 bag mix though.
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Old 03/04/12, 10:45 AM
 
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Location: Montana
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Hi,
Did you see this site: http://ferrocement.com/tankBook/indici.en.html

Gary
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  #4  
Old 03/04/12, 10:15 PM
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I think you can make above ground ones a lot thinner... (from the ferrocement sites I've frequented)... putting one in the ground? I'd make it a lot thicker, and always keep water in it... good chance of failure if it's not full, and the ground moisture goes from bone dry to sopping wet.

From my limited knowledge of in ground tanks, I'd not go with simple ferrocement, but would rather go more in the Fantasymaker direction...
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Old 03/04/12, 10:45 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Virginia
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If you don't want to build from scratch buy a precast septic tank you can get them in varies gallon sizes around here 1500 and 2000 gal are standard. I have 2 set up on the barn down spouts, 1 on each side of the barn, got them about 20 yrs ago, precast co set them in place, the above ground unit i punched in the side near the bottom and installed a frost free hose bib, the other has a hand pump on top. Water the gardens and water troughs all summer. Precast is already water proof material, hate to try and mix up that much water proof cement at home for a big tank.
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Old 03/05/12, 12:06 AM
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pipersfarm View Post
I've been planning my water storage options on the homestead for awhile now, and I can't find any information about building ferrocement for underground use.

Any suggestions? Do's or don't do's? Any advice would be appreciated!

Joshua
Wouldn't your location be an issue? (We have no idea if you are in zone 3 or 8, and I would think temp's matter, but maybe not?).
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Old 03/05/12, 07:20 AM
 
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Location: Western North Carolina
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We used a new septic tank for water storage. We have two, both underground but with the tops exposed since we set a hand pump in the top of one and also wanted to be able to access them easy. Around here it would not freeze up.

Check out the sites below:

http://www.oasisdesign.net/index.htm

http://www.harvestingrainwater.com/

http://greywateraction.org/

We spent a lot of time reading from the sites above. Then, we came up with our current water system which is a 3-part system: Well water / Spring water and Rain water.

Good luck.
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  #8  
Old 03/05/12, 07:40 AM
 
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from our sponsor



http://www.backwoodshome.com/article...sworth101.html
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  #9  
Old 03/05/12, 07:44 AM
 
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this might be of interest they make and sell water tanks



http://stores.ebay.com/TANKS-MORE?_rdc=1
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  #10  
Old 03/05/12, 09:14 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado
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Both ferrocement and water tanks are a personal interest.

Ferrocement uses metal, either lathe or hardware cloth. Thin shell cement does not use the metal, but a mesh. I do not consider concrete block as either, although, it is cement and certainly viable.

I plan to begin making six 1000 gallon thin shell cement water tanks this summer. They will be hyperbolic parabaloid (hypar) cylinders. I have made the jig and constructed 3 ~60gallon thin shell cement tanks. The first tanks are 1/8 inch thick cement with flat bottoms. The recipe is 2 portland, 1 flyash, 6 sand with a good acrylic additive (26%).

The next tank will be 200 gallons. I will make the thickness about 3/8 inch. The bottom will not be flat, but an elliptical parabolic curve, like a satelite dish pointed into the ground. I may make one that is only 1/4 inch thick just to see if it is strong enough to hold 200 gallons. I don't know the math to calculate the strength of a thin shell hypar based on the layers of mesh and thickness of the cement.

Unfortunately, rectangular or cubic containers may require being buried for support. This is not a requirement for a cylindrical tank.

Light and insulation are other factors. Most plastic containers let light in. They should be covered and insulated (depending on location).

I personally met Garret C, the author of the booklet linked above. I also met a man who builds ferrocement water tanks in Hawaii (large - like 10,000 gal). They are more of an authority on making large tanks than I will ever be. Garret's book is worth it.

The reasons I plan to make (6) 1000 gallon tanks are: 1) I have 50 solar hot water vacuum tubes. Just based on an advertised minimum BTU's per tube, I will be able to heat 1000 gallons about 15 degrees a day; 2) I plan to use a hydronic heating system, and will want different temperature water tanks; 3) smaller tanks will be easier to construct, insulate, and locate, as well as lighter in total weight.

I suggest you study and practice if you are really interested in the ferrocement.

Last edited by gobug; 03/05/12 at 09:22 AM.
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  #11  
Old 03/05/12, 12:50 PM
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Thanks all for your advice! I should have stated my project goals a little clearer, but even so, I've received interesting responses all.... I have had enough experience that I'm confident about being able to build anything I design. I'm not, however, confident that my design will stand the compression of the surround earth. In seeking examples and folks that have gone before, I'm hoping for instruction.

The project that I am designing is a 12,000 gallon underground storage tank to collect roof runoff, and provide emergency water storage.

The cast in place option is viable with the exception of using a concrete pump truck. I would rather keep this project quiet, and not permit the structure. So finding a buddy with a pumper, or making it ferrocement style (where I can pour in stages) is the likely option.

The tank will be buried what ever happens as it would be located in a line of sight from my living room, and with the exception of hiring a bunch of kids to graffiti it, I don't want to look at that. I am located in zone 8b, so deep frost is not a concern.

Thanks again all who contributed above! It's good to share ideas.

Good luck with your own projects,
Joshua
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