Chainsaw problem

jennigrey · #1 01/27/12, 06:43 PM

I got a second-hand chainsaw for my birthday. The seller fired it up and it ran great. That was a month ago. Went to use it today for the first time and can't get it to run. Followed the starting procedures printed on the machine (no manual with it) but no joy.

If I wait a few hours or all day between tries, it catches on the first pull with the choke slider in the "run" position but only chugs along for several seconds before it dies. Pull it again and it will run for maybe a few seconds. After that, you can pull till your arm falls off and you're cussing a blue streak but it just won't fire. Won't even pop.

Any advice would be appreciated. I'm only slightly handy with internal combustion engines and I have no experience with recalcitrant chainsaws, except to know that it's between me and getting any work done.

Sourdough · #2 01/27/12, 06:46 PM

Release the chain brake.......

RonM · #3 01/27/12, 07:02 PM

Hit er with a shot of ether....

jennigrey · #4 01/27/12, 07:29 PM

Push the chain brake forward, toward the bar, to engage; pull it back, toward the user to disengage, correct?

The Husqvarna video I watched said to engage the chain brake when starting. I will try disengaging it, though.

It has a primer bubble but using that seems to make the problem worse. It is even less inclined to run if I have pressed the primer bubble. And if it does catch, it coughs some fuel out the side as it dies.

If I were to hit it with ether, where does one direct it?

tinknal · #5 01/27/12, 08:01 PM

You should have the choke in the start position, not the run position when you start it. Start it with the choke on, when it catches, slide the choke towards the run position. The saw will tell you if you are moving it too soon or not soon enough.

jennigrey · #6 01/27/12, 08:24 PM

It usually won't even fire up if I have the choke on.

maverickxxx · #7 01/27/12, 09:00 PM

Sounds like it's flooding before it even starts if it's starting in run postion. I'd drop start it but don't recomend that at all for novice chainsaw user.

jennigrey · #8 01/27/12, 09:06 PM

I won't attempt it. The only thing I know about drop-starting is that it is an "advanced" manouver. What is the purpose of drop-starting? A more rapid pull and therefore stronger compression?

jennigrey · #9 01/27/12, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinknal

You should have the choke in the start position, not the run position when you start it. Start it with the choke on, when it catches, slide the choke towards the run position. The saw will tell you if you are moving it too soon or not soon enough.

Let me revisit this one.... Let's say I have the choke full on and do get it to catch. If it dies after, say, 6 or 7 seconds, should I have slid the choke toward run during that time frame? And if it does die, should I try starting it with the choke on again? Or should I proceed to try it at half-throttle?

maverickxxx · #10 01/27/12, 09:15 PM

It let's it start at full throtle. Usally only takes one or two pulls n it's running. More for when they've already running sometimes when hot they are more difficult to start hot. Maybe next time u try to start it skip priming procedure. An try to start it like that. U can check plug to see if it needs new one. Could be idle is messed up

maverickxxx · #11 01/27/12, 09:16 PM

What model saw is it?

pheasantplucker · #12 01/27/12, 09:17 PM

I have a Husqvarna...I'm assuming that's what you have??? Mine is finiky to start as well. I hold the throttle trigger and keep pulling...it should fire up.

Yvonne's hubby · #13 01/27/12, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jennigrey

Push the chain brake forward, toward the bar, to engage; pull it back, toward the user to disengage, correct?

The Husqvarna video I watched said to engage the chain brake when starting. I will try disengaging it, though.

It has a primer bubble but using that seems to make the problem worse. It is even less inclined to run if I have pressed the primer bubble. And if it does catch, it coughs some fuel out the side as it dies.

If I were to hit it with ether, where does one direct it?

You need to disengage the chain brake for sure. I always hated those things! LOL They will nearly always keep your saw from running, and especially from starting. If it wont start and keep running following the start instructions, take it to a pro, have them tune it properly and teach you how to start it. Chainsaws can be touchy little rascals at best, but once you learn your saw there is no way live in the country without it.

Rick · #14 01/27/12, 10:00 PM

Here is how I start my Husky and my Stihl.

No Brake. Choke on. Safety and full throttle squeezed.

Pull several times while holding above the ground. Once it sputters switch to run. Pull up to 7 more times until it starts and try not to cut my foot, leg or the ground.

Unless I miss my guess you'd spray the ether in the plug opening after checking it. You might add some sea foam to the tank. You might treat it to some higher octane or fresh gas if you haven't tried that.

Keep the saw in a warm, spark free place (under a blanket) if it is below 35 at night.

Good luck.

farminghandyman · #15 01/27/12, 10:17 PM

after it starts and stutters once you could try about half choke, and see if you can keep it running until it warms up,

most small engines I have you start first on full choke and then slide to about half until it will run and then off,

on my chain saw you set it on the choke setting it will do the same as yours, and then there is a second setting that is about half choke and the throttle about half open, and when it warms up a little by working the throttle it clicks on to no choke, and usually runs fine after that,

also you can try a new plug (if you do not have a new plug take it out and warm it up good with the tip in a clean flame, and then after it cools replace it and try it, (if it is dirty clean it first).

braggscowboy · #16 01/27/12, 10:55 PM

I have a Husky and Stihls. Each has a special way to start which has to be learned. I have decompression on both, but since you have a Husky. I have to choke if not used in a while, when it hits. quit choking and decompress and as someone said keep pulling rope for several times and it will start most of the time, if not if I choke it again, I have to pull many times and sometime I just walk away for a while and then sit in on the ground and pull hard and fast (hate it). It will start and run great. I you start when hot will fire right up first crank. As someone said, use high octane, new gas and good plug. If then it does not start and run, you have a problem. Chain brake should not keep it from a slow idle. Good luck! How is the compression on the saw?

idigbeets · #17 01/28/12, 07:04 AM

Seems like you have the right idea on how to start.

I assume you've gone over the saw to check things like fuel hoses, vent tube in gas tank, spark plug, clean air filter....

Seymour · #18 01/28/12, 09:16 AM

i have a poulan that was doing the same thing, check that the primer bulb is not cracked and sucking air, if not that check the diafram in the carb and make sure it does not leak. i had the exact same problem, thought i was going crazy, was ready to take the saw on a long walk on a short dock when someone enlightened me to this problem that happens when a saw sits to long with old gas in it. just a thought

#19 01/28/12, 10:29 AM

It sounds to me like the carb is letting too much gas through it. You wouldn't have liquid gas spurting out the side if it wasn't. Something is stuck open. Clean the carb and put in a carb kit or take it in to the shop and have it done. Replace the fuel filter too.

Each small gas engine has it's own ritual to get it started. You will have to learn what your chain saw's is.

Once you get it running properly, be sure to put Stabil in the gas tank if you are not going to use it for over a couple months. Run it for a few minutes with the Stabil in the gas to get the Stabil into the carb.

Ozarks Tom · #20 01/28/12, 10:33 AM

My suggestion, I have four 2 stroke engines, is to not prime the engine more than once per starting try. If you re-prime, you will flood the carb. To un-flood a carb, full choke with full throttle (I know that sounds counter-intuitive), and pull till it starts.

With mine, prime 6 times, full choke, pull till it starts and dies, no choke, pull till it starts. Usually takes about 5 pulls. Let it warm up before applying throttle.