Hott Rod

[PD-Riverman]

I have a old friend that came to me several years ago----said he and GF broke up and he needs a place to stay for a short time till he saved enough to get a place to stay. I allowed him to stay in one of my campers that was hooked up to water and electric already. It has a gas stove, gas heat and gas water heater. With the bad economy several years later now he is still here. The gas water heater has messed up several times, had to put another control on it a couple years back, wind is always blowing out the pilot light, now the pilot light want stay on. I decided to go get a small 10 gal electric water heater for $280(can not find a used one) because I was tired of messing with the gas water heater. Figured I would take the gas water heater out to make it simple to get to the water lines, build a little enclosed box to put the new electric water heater in on the side of the camper----no where to put it inside. Minutes before I left to go get the water heater I was standing beside the camper thinking----Then a Thought hit me---wonder it there is some way to convert the heater to electric. Got on e-bay---bam---there it is---a Hott Rod. I called my closest camper/rv place---they got them---popular item. $100. I run pick one up, come back and install it in a few minutes---no water heater to remove, just a simple add on to the gas water heater.

Edited to add, this has no effect on the gas operation, use either or both for faster recovery time.

I told my wife, that if you do not know about these new things, you just do not know.

Thought I would post about it incase some of you like myself----Live So Far Back In The Woods that You Get Last Weeks Radio Stations----and have not heard about it yet---might help you out.

[Travis in Louisiana]

That is great to know about. I have an RV and will keep this stuck in my memory somewhere for when I need it.

[Bearfootfarm]

If your pilot light won't stay lit, it can probably be fixed with a new thermocouple

[edcopp]

I would have sold the camper a few years ago. But that's just me.

[PD-Riverman]

Originally Posted by Bearfootfarm

If your pilot light won't stay lit, it can probably be fixed with a new thermocouple

Just put a new thermocouple on it a few months back also a new tubing from the control to the pilot light. Worked good for a while except he had to relite the pilot light every few days. Now The pilot light faded down to a real small flame not enough to heat up the thermocouple--acts like its clogged. Had enough so I bought the Hott Rod. I have had to work on this water heater to much in the last couple years.

[PD-Riverman]

Originally Posted by edcopp

I would have sold the camper a few years ago. But that's just me.

Why would you have sold the camper? I never said I let him stay in it for free. He is happy with what he pays and I am happy with what he pays. So its worth a little upkeep. Just glad I do not have to work on the gas water heater any more. Hope the Hott Rod last a long time.

[wharton]

Given that you spent a lot for the upgrade, you might want to do a search to see if you can buy a sacrificial anode to replace the drain plug. Shouldn't cost too much, they are definitely available for some of the RV water heaters, and it will protect the element from burning out prematurely. Good luck. BTW, most newer campers have a combo. 120v and gas heater. Your right, with both turned on, mine makes hot water that you need to be real careful with. It seems to be just shy of boiling. Two other things to add. Very small spiders are a common source of pilot light issues, they block the tube and are nearly invisible, but fly nicely with a shot of compressed air. Second, there are shields available to keep a pilot light from blowing out.

[idahodave]

My RV heater has a small hex nut on the side of the valve assembly that adjusts the pilot flame height. Might be one on your's too.

[Gianni]

Originally Posted by idahodave

My RV heater has a small hex nut on the side of the valve assembly that adjusts the pilot flame height. Might be one on your's too.

Look for a large screw that covers an adjustment screw. I would guess it is dust. If the pilot flame does not surround the tip of the thermocouple hit the base with air pressure to clean the pilot burner. At worst the pilot might need a new orifice for under $5 and a service call.

[PD-Riverman]

Seems some of you know a lot about rv water heaters, so I want to see if any of you can answer a question I would like to know the answer to. Where the thermocouple attaches under the main control there are 2 wires that leave that spot and go behind the control----looking at a control out of the tank these 2 wires go into the piece on the back of the control that screws into the tank. What are these 2 wires purpose?

[idahodave]

My guess is they connect to a high limit switch. If the tank overheats it would shut off the burner by opening the thermocouple circuit.

[PD-Riverman]

Originally Posted by idahodave

My guess is they connect to a high limit switch. If the tank overheats it would shut off the burner by opening the thermocouple circuit.

That sounds like it would be right or some safety switch. My pilot light would not stay lite unless you hold down the pilot button, as soon as I released it the pilot lite would go out in seconds. Put a new thermocouple on it--no help. I looked it over and figured these wires was the problem---I ohmed them out which showed a open circuit so I cut them and wire nutted the two wires together to complete the circuit. The pilot stayed on, heater worked perfect so what ever these wires went to was bad and the Camping World parts said there was no replacement part for that, would have to replace the gas control----well the workers had no Idea what I cut loose but said that I shouldn't have. I have another camper that I rarely used that was doing the same thing so I cut the 2 wires and twisted them together and then it worked like new. Always wondered what I was cutting loose. I thought it might be a sensor for water----no water it want work---but I did not know---I just knew it was bad. Thanks

[PD-Riverman]

Originally Posted by idahodave

My guess is they connect to a high limit switch. If the tank overheats it would shut off the burner by opening the thermocouple circuit.

Dave you are correct. I took one apart and the 2 wires go to a thermal switch 93 C degrees. About 200 F. I removed the 4 screws on the back of the gas control and the 2 wires were slid inside the copper probe that goes inside the tank. The thermal switch was soldered to the 2 wires. Might help others on here that don't know. Now if I run into the problem of the pilot light going out as soon as I release the pilot button I will ohm out the thermal switch first before I replace the thermocouple.

[idahodave]

You can also read the output (about .003 Vdc) with a digital meter if it has a scale that goes that low. Connect the meter to the thermocouple leads and use a BBQ lighter to heat the thermocouple.