The best ax for felling trees?

[BooRadley]

Hi. I am looking for the best type of ax to chop down trees with. Also, for those of you who have felled quite a few trees with axes, tell me, how often (in terms of how many trees you have cut with it) do you personally need to sharpen your ax? Also, do you section the tree while it lays on the ground, with your ax?

And please tell me, what is the best type of saw (hand tool not power tool) for sectioning? The best type of maul for splitting?

If any of you are chicks, that would be especially helpful, as I am also. Thanks.

[stanb999]

the best ax... is a saw. Much easier work if your in hardwood.

[WolfWalksSoftly]

Unless you have more time than money..... Husqvarna

[Bearfootfarm]

If I HAD to use an axe, I'd want a fairly thin "double bitted" head.

[stanb999]

Originally Posted by WolfWalksSoftly

Unless you have more time than money..... Husqvarna

I'd figure a top shelf ax that could really handle constant work wouldn't cost much less than a good grade ranch type chain saw or even a small professional grade. The last Husky I got was $350 with an extra chain and case. Not really that expensive and due to it's being a "pro" saw it's light in weight.



To the OP

Why do you wish to use hand tools?

[idigbeets]

You'll get more responses at a site like arborsite.com

Personally I'd go with a chainsaw.... Splitting maul any will do. The big red one at tractor supply co works just fine. It's like 18lbs...

Sledgehammer + splitting wedge works better and less stress on one's back.

[sawman65]

the double bit ax is best you can cut twice as much between sharpening's. yes you need to sharpen, a good bastard file will do. the maul is a thing that YOU need to be comfortable with. i have R.A. and use the 6lb it works for me. some days i will use a 3lb sledge with a short handle and a wedge. that way i can sit and split.
the only saw i have used is a power saw.

[Forerunner]

The thinner double-bit ax is spot-on, but the pic is misleading.
Note the curved cutting edge. That is actually somewhat of a handicap.
A very slight curve to an almost straight cutting edge will actually get you through the tree trunk or branch quicker.

The new blades leave a lot to be desired, unless you special order from Germany or Switzerland, but there are some old ax heads around to be had at flea markets and such.

This old Keen Kutter is shaped about right.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keen-Kutter-...item4ab04af425

This one from Maine is really shaped to fell trees....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Snow...item2c607b7cd7

You'll want to experiment with different head weights and handle lengths to see what fits you best...... or do like I did and start out with whatever your Pop had laying in the wood shed and develop your techniques and preferences from there.

Some of the tried and true names are Keen Cutter, Stanley, Kelly, Craftsman, Collins etc.
The good ones will have the name stamped into the blade somewhere. The new ones probably won't be stamped..... don't know, though, haven't bought any new ones.
Eventually, you'll likely want to make your own handles.
The replacement handles sold today are just plain junk.
The cure job is bad and the shape is not much better..... so you'll be wanting a draw knife and set of hand planes to go with, maybe a good set of wood rasps.

As for the splitting, a double bit ax with a thick, heavy blade does wonders on straight grain stuff.
I like the splitting maul style that has the sledge hammer head built in the backside of the splitting edge. The modern ones are OK, but, again, the handles, even fiberglass, just don't hold up.

Sledge hammer and wedges will take you all the way....just a little slower sometimes than a good maul outright.

Splitting wedge.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COLLINS-SPLI...item3f0fe09e97

Best shaped maul, especially for a lady....(the old 25# Sotz "Monster Maul" was great for a 19-yo male in the prime of his ambition ).........
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Spli...item336e031df1

Yes to bucking up a log with the ax once felled. A saw is faster and less messy, but those ax chips make great kindling.
As for how often to sharpen, well....there are variables. If you are taking out stumps all day and cutting roots, you're going to let that edge go just a little longer. If you are felling, limbing and bucking with an ax.....like an old man once told me, "ain't no time wasted in whettin'"


Do you read much ?

I bought this book back in my formative years......
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-The-Ax-B...item5d2b51ea57

The man does a thorough job of explaining just about everything you'd need to know, from his point of view and experience. Like the men on board, here, he does recommend power equipment if you have access to it for your woodland projects, but, like me, Cook seeks to keep the old traditions alive and his ax blades sharp.

The day will come......

Incidentally, I keep a VERY large and mint condition broadaxe beside my bed.
When young men come to visit whom I think might would have the slightest interest in my eldest daughter, I make a point to be sitting on the porch with a large whet stone, (I like a Carborundum #57 Brand) just a whettin' that blade as they walk up to the house.
I've yet to meet the young man whose eyes light up with appreciation for a good blade, lovingly cared for......and, until I do, well.

[jwal10]

Originally Posted by BooRadley

Hi. I am looking for the best type of ax to chop down trees with. Also, for those of you who have felled quite a few trees with axes, tell me, how often (in terms of how many trees you have cut with it) do you personally need to sharpen your ax? Also, do you section the tree while it lays on the ground, with your ax?

And please tell me, what is the best type of saw (hand tool not power tool) for sectioning? The best type of maul for splitting?

If any of you are chicks, that would be especially helpful, as I am also. Thanks.

A felling axe is thin like the first example, cuts deep and doesn't bind in the wood. Worthless for splitting as it goes deep and no wedge effect. A felling axe doesn't need sharpened often if kept out of dirt, it needs honed with a stone, you can shave with it. Buck before limbing the bottom of the tree to keep it up off the ground. .

But, I have to say if you are doing this to cut wood for firewood a saw is better and easier. A felling saw has a narrower blade than a bucking saw, they were also called a whip saw. Best in 2 person operation, each end is pulled, hard to push this type of saw and keep in the wood.


Best type of saw? How big are the trees to be cut? How strong are you? If small trees (less than a foot) I would use a Bow saw to buck with, thin, narrow blade for easier one person operation.

Maul, there again how strong are you, I am 5'3", male with a bad left shoulder, arm and hand and have always had a tough time using a splitting maul, I use wedges and a heavy hammer, 4 lb is about all I want....James

[geo in mi]

In the hands of an experienced user, a double-bitted axe may be fine, but I don't think I would recommend it for a beginner, as the OP seems to be. If you don't know how to grip it, and you haven't swung an axe, there's too much possibility for a comeback and a nasty cut...My opinion.......

geo

[Cabin Fever]

A nice double bit axe - like the Swedish made, hand-forged Gransfor axe shown by BFF - a large bow saw or one-man crosscut saw for bucking the tree trunks into rounds, and a small bow saw or a buck saw for the smaller limbs and branches. Remember to get the appropriate sharpening files for each saw and maybe a fine stone for the axe and a saw set for the crosscut saw. Don't forget a peavy to turn the logs so the saws don't get pinched. Congratulations, you've just spent the same amount as a chainsaw would cost.

[Ed Norman]

I was in a stand of lodgepoles with old stumps from long ago. They had been felled with an axe and it looked like they were getting them down with about 3-4 blows. Every stump was identical looking. It must have been some axe and operator.

[CIW]

I've heard some solid thoughts here. Especially the one about getting a quality chainsaw. I'm sure you have your reasons, and there yours.
When axes, and even some saws, are built. They are painted to preserve them in transit. I see many people that forget to remove all that paint and polish the surface of the blade. Then keep it oiled and wrapped in oil soaked cotton cloth when not in use.
Oiling and wrapping in paper after production is a more common practice for higher quality tools such as Swedish and German wood chisels as well as the best axes.
A polished blade goes deeper with the same amount of force and moreso, doesn't get wedged in as easy. To the point, look at a wood carvers chisel to show the refined surface. They always have a mirror finish.
Off the subject but to the point. We annually polish and point the plow shares, as it's easier for the mares to pull it through the ground. Then brush on paint when completed for the year.
Most axes, these days, are drop forged and dip in paint. The paint hides some of the surface imperfections.
When polishing I start out taking an unfired brick to the surface. Then coarse buffing compound on a wheel, steadily using finer until you can see your image reflected in the surface.
I hope these ideas and thoughts help.

[stormwalker]

I'm a woman.
First, I'd ask you- Why not a chainsaw?
Second,- Have you handled an axe of any sort?
Third- How about a two-person saw?

[canecutter]

Council tool is a company that takes axe making seriously and they are made in USA.
They do not make junk at all. The prices are higher than the local store but worth it..
The website has good descriptions of the different types they sale.

The axes at the local hardware stores are getting worse all the time. Some even appear to be made out of cast iron now!

Their are a few retailers on the net that are cheaper than buying direct from the company.

http://www.counciltool.com/

[Jolly]

Stihl Woodboss. $299.

[Paquebot]

I didn't think that there were many left who would know the answer to that question but I was wrong! We had several on the family farm which indeed were sharpened with a stone because they were so thin. They were also light and easy to use. When I was 12, I chased a black squirrel into a hole in an 18" thick oak tree. I shinnied up and plugged the hole and went home and got one of the double-bits. I chopped that tree down, chopped my way into where the squirrel was, caught it and took it home alive. The axe was probably just about as sharp when I got done as when I started. It really wasn't that much effort even for a 12-year old with determination. It was either the axe or a one-man crosscut saw and I hated those.

As for the squirrel, uncle and I stayed up late after the milking to build a fancy cage for it. Got done and put the squirrel in the cage and it ran around in it a couple times and dropped over dead!

Martin

[BooRadley]

Originally Posted by stanb999

the best ax... is a saw. Much easier work if your in hardwood.

Not an option for me. But I like your sig.

[BooRadley]

Originally Posted by Forerunner

The day will come......

Indeed it will.

Your post is rich with very valuable information, and I will surely be referring to it. Thank you so much for taking the time to write it.

And I love what you said about your broadaxe.

[BooRadley]

Originally Posted by jwal10

A felling axe is thin like the first example, cuts deep and doesn't bind in the wood. Worthless for splitting as it goes deep and no wedge effect. A felling axe doesn't need sharpened often if kept out of dirt, it needs honed with a stone, you can shave with it. Buck before limbing the bottom of the tree to keep it up off the ground. .

But, I have to say if you are doing this to cut wood for firewood a saw is better and easier. A felling saw has a narrower blade than a bucking saw, they were also called a whip saw. Best in 2 person operation, each end is pulled, hard to push this type of saw and keep in the wood.


Best type of saw? How big are the trees to be cut? How strong are you? If small trees (less than a foot) I would use a Bow saw to buck with, thin, narrow blade for easier one person operation.

Maul, there again how strong are you, I am 5'3", male with a bad left shoulder, arm and hand and have always had a tough time using a splitting maul, I use wedges and a heavy hammer, 4 lb is about all I want....James

Very good information. Thanks.

I might get some kind of hand saw to work with. Trouble is, most of the work I will be doing alone. There is another here, but they are too disabled. Otherwise, I have always loved the idea of using the 2 person saw. Tough work I know, but it all is, so what?