Lawn tractors with plows

farmmom · #1 11/02/11, 02:32 PM

I've been dreaming of owning a tractor so I don't have to rely on other people to plow my garden for me. Recently I found that Sears carries a lawn tractor that will pull a disc plow. Has anyone had any experience - good or bad - with this type of machine. It would be a good bit less expensive than a "real" tractor, but will it do the job?

Windy in Kansas · #2 11/02/11, 03:08 PM

I should add that I have no experience, just an opinion and from observation of others.

I seriously doubt that it will do the job you desire. It appears to be made by Brinly-Hardy or at least of very similar design.

From their web site about their disc----"Use a BRINLY Disk Harrow to break up chunky, plowed ground and prepare seedbeds with uniform, pulverized soil."

That clearly states it is for use AFTER plowing has been done.

I bought a Brinly-Hardy disc for very light work and I can easily pick it up to load, etc. There is far too little weight to have much cutting action other than on ground already fairly mellow or loose.

Switching to the topic of small plows---The moldboard plows that Brinly-Hardy offers are of 8 inch to 12 inch size. I believe the old standard is that a plow will plow about half as deep as its width rating. So at most these small plows actually plow from 4 to 6 inches deep. When you have your garden plowed by others how deep are they plowing? I don't know how wide your garden is but plowing an 8 inch to 12 inch width at a time would be rather time consuming if the garden is of any size at all.

Unlike some I really like to mix my soil amendments with the soil that is already in place while also aerating it. For that I prefer a roto-tiller. It does pulverize the soil quite fine however so if you have hard rains it may very well run together. My soil is sandy and without that issue.

I also doubt that without properly added ballast the tractor will have enough traction for any real pulling even with tire chains. Ag lug tires would help.

Just my opinion you understand.

Silvercreek Farmer · #3 11/02/11, 04:55 PM

Over the past several years fixing and using Garden Tractors have become a hobby of mine. They are incredibly useful and capable of much more than many think. Here are a couple videos of my 1968 Sears Suburban in action:

Any "riding mower" sized tractor used for ground engaging equipment (plows, disks, cultivators ect) is generally referred to as a "garden tractor", "lawn tractors" are not typically rated for this type of work and would probably not last well at all. The easiest way to tell the difference (90-95% accurate) is that Garden Tractors usually have 12" diameter wheels that bolt on with 5 bolts, compared to lawn tractors that have 8-10" dia. wheels with a keyed center hub and no bolts. On any given day you can find dozens of used GT's on craigslist for far less than what a new one would cost from Sears generally starting around $500 and up for a decent runner, and the ones made prior to 1980 or so tend to be much heavier duty but will require additional maintainance and may be difficult/costly to find parts for depending on the brand. Many people who buy new GT's report issues associated with today's outsourced manuafacturing, but at least you get a warranty. Any implements you are looking at are probably sleeve hitch, many older tractors are 3 pt and would require an adapter to work with the sleeve hitch implements. As Windy mentioned, chains or tractor style tires (Ags) and ballast weight are a must, the tractor in the video has ATV tires and around 350 lbs of extra weight, but for most applications 150# or so should do the trick.

Bearfootfarm · #4 11/02/11, 05:53 PM

Quote:

It appears to be made by Brinly-Hardy

Every time I bought something they made, I regretted it later

There are no "lawn tractors" that will actually do heavy work

For what a new one costs, you can buy an old Ford or AC REAL tractor

Honorine · #5 11/02/11, 06:23 PM

When it comes to garden tractors older is better, the newer ones just aren't as sturdy. The old Suburbans are great, but for sheer power and number of possible attachments a Bolens is what you want. An old 1050 would fill the bill, very powerful, they run forever, and there's so many out there you can always find parts and attachments. We just sold our collection of Bolens, and all the attachments, we had rototillers, sickle bar mowers, plow, digging blades, grader blades, york rakes, mold board plows and so on, there's all kinds of attachments you can get. I like Suburbans and we've had a few but the Bolens can out work them.

stockdogtta · #6 11/02/11, 07:21 PM

I second the old style Bolens known as tube style. They will pull a 12 inch plow. Plowed many a garden with a 14 and 10 hp. Depending on the ground, had a set of tire chains I put on if needed. Newer ones isnt worth buying IMO.

Silvercreek Farmer · #7 11/02/11, 07:48 PM

Very few old Bolens down this way. Never actually seen one in person. Too bad, the diff lock would be a nice feature.

Callieslamb · #8 11/02/11, 08:50 PM

You plow every year? I have never plowed my garden -even when it was in hard clay TN soil. Just a tiller.

**Terri** · #9 11/03/11, 06:48 AM

I am deeply fascinated with this subject. I am getting older and I feel it!!!!!!

Um, about the weights: do they have to be put on in the field right before plowing, or can they be left on at all times? I have in mind that the garden tractor can also move the plow WITHOUT plowing? Can the disks be pulled out to the field and then engaged like with a full sized tractor or would the weights have to be put on in the field where you are going to plow?

I was wondering if the implements could be left in a shed, and the garden tractor backed up to it and hitched on, the garden tractor could pull it to the field to be plowed, and then the disks or moldboard engaged.

I have to tell you, the idea of putting weights on and off a disk does nothing for me. I am not as young as I used to be and I have always been small.

geo in mi · #10 11/03/11, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmmom

I've been dreaming of owning a tractor so I don't have to rely on other people to plow my garden for me. Recently I found that Sears carries a lawn tractor that will pull a disc plow. Has anyone had any experience - good or bad - with this type of machine. It would be a good bit less expensive than a "real" tractor, but will it do the job?

Have you thought about: http://www.bcsamerica.com/ ??

geo

Silvercreek Farmer · #11 11/03/11, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terri

I am deeply fascinated with this subject. I am getting older and I feel it!!!!!!

Um, about the weights: do they have to be put on in the field right before plowing, or can they be left on at all times? I have in mind that the garden tractor can also move the plow WITHOUT plowing? Can the disks be pulled out to the field and then engaged like with a full sized tractor or would the weights have to be put on in the field where you are going to plow?

I was wondering if the implements could be left in a shed, and the garden tractor backed up to it and hitched on, the garden tractor could pull it to the field to be plowed, and then the disks or moldboard engaged.

I have to tell you, the idea of putting weights on and off a disk does nothing for me. I am not as young as I used to be and I have always been small.

Just to distiguish between two different types of weights. Ballast weight(s) are wheel weights, fluid in the tires and occasionally suitcase type weights. These can generally be left on the tractor at all times and will enhance traction so the tractor can pull an implement.

Small garden tractor disks usually require some additional weight in order to get a good bite. Disks vary, some will fit the 3 pt or sleeve hitch so they can be lowered and raised at the appropriate time, others are tow(or tag) along. Some of these have transport wheels so they can be wheeled to the work site then lowered. Others have no transport wheels and as such are pretty much "on" all the time. Generally you see these parked right next to the garden. Most moldboards are designed to fit a hitch and can be raised or lowered at will.

Many garden tractor hitches are simply manual levers that use mechanical leverage to lift heavy attachments, but may require significant upper body strength depending on the attachment and design of the hitch. I would not recommend one of these for a small woman. There are also hydrolic lifts and electric lifts on many models of garden tractors which would be more appropriate for a smaller person.

big rockpile · #12 11/03/11, 09:30 AM

I had one did just fine couple years then Transmission Locked up cost around I believe $600 fix it which I didn't find cost effective.

I can buy an Older Ford or AC Tractor for same price and Regular Equipment hold up alot better.

big rockpile

**Terri** · #13 11/03/11, 09:32 AM

Thanks!

Silvercreek Farmer · #14 11/03/11, 09:34 AM

All this talk about tillage, funny thing is, despite all the garden tractor equipment I own I don't even plow or till my garden anymore, I have added tons of organic material and it is so loose (in spite of our NC clay), I just use a fork to break up a little spot for each one of my plants... I save the equipment for breaking new ground from time to time...

#15 11/03/11, 11:23 AM

I was looking for a way to till up new and existing garden space. A rototiller with a handle causes my back to hurt for days because of the vibration and having to drag it around.

I picked up a Sears self powered rototiller off Craigs List. You pull it behind a lawn tractor or an ATV. It has it's own 5 horse motor and really tills up the soil. It even breaks grass for new ground. The pulling vehicle doesn't have to have much power. It's sort of like using a saw, go at the speed the saw is comfortable cutting and likewise the speed the tiller can easily till the soil. The only qualm I have is the outside ends of the tiller blades are not supported. I have not used it enough to see if this will be a problem.

oth47 · #16 11/03/11, 05:34 PM

Asking about garden tractors is like asking what's the best gun,dog,knife,guitar,whatever.You'll get all kinds of answers,depending on what people have.I swear by my Economy tractor,'76 model,hydraulics,wheel weights,loaded tires,even has chrome beauty rings on the back wheels.It'll pull a plow thru the toughest dirt and do it on very little gas.I also had a Sears Suburban with a plow and disk,tough little tractor.I had to put tractor tread tires and wheel weights on the Sears to boost the traction.I sold it when I bought the Economy,and I wish I'd kept it.

Copperhead · #17 11/03/11, 07:58 PM

I got tired of borrowing my FIL's Gravely to till my garden, so I beefed up the fence with an electric line at 8" and added 3 feeder pigs. In 1 months time, the garden went from waist high garden and weeds to a somewhat plowed, perfectly tilled bed. The only problem I had was convincing the three not-so-small pigs that my other garden is now their new home for a month! If they stay in their new home tonight, then tomorrow I hope to get a load of shredded bark from the sawmill. I'm intrigued by the techniques in the http://backtoedenfilm.com/

Shadow · #18 11/03/11, 09:07 PM

OK my opinion after 53 years of gardening and homewteading, A quote garden tractor is a great machine, it cuts grass really well. Thats it. It is a great lawn mower. My first real tractor was a Ford 1710, bought in 1986 used for $7 grand. Used and abused it passed on last year. Have had a Kubota for about 4 years it is 40 hp the ford was about 25 The ford would pull a single turning plow and you could plow a small garden in a day if you stayed on it. The Kubota with four wheel drive will plow twice as much in half the time. In my clay soil a garden tractor from sears would do nothing. Get a real tractor at least 25 HP or keep hiring it plowed. I have had several of the garden varity and will never waste money on one pretending it is anything but a grass mower. David.

Silvercreek Farmer · #19 11/03/11, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Copperhead

I'm intrigued by the techniques in the http://backtoedenfilm.com/

Thanks for the link. I've never seen this but it is exactly what I have been doing for the past 5 years. Had to start over when we moved 3 years ago, but our soil has absolutely improved. I would say that I never water, but not very much, that's for sure.