Nome, Alaska - Living There

[sunflower-n-ks]

What is it like to live in Nome, Alaska? DD is considering a job there.

[Tricky Grama]

I'd say...cold.

[kkbinco]

...and when it ain't cold lots and lots and lots of mosquitoes.

[salmonslayer]

Here is a link to my blog from the last time I was in Nome 2 years ago that has some pictures: http://salmonslayer-simplelife.blogs...&max-results=7.

Nome is extremely isolated and expensive with few trees and weather can be rough. But it is beautiful in an austere way that reminds me of the badlands. The fishing, crabbing, and hunting is great but you have to be prepared for the weather which can often be windy and cold even in the summer. Winters are long and dark while summers have long days and it gets very dusty. If I remember correctly we were paying around $8.00 for a gallon of milk, $3.50 for a loaf of bread etc. and housing is expensive, hard to come by, and would be considered sub-standard by lower 48 standards.

She really ought to consider a trip up for a few days before making a decision, some people really have a hard time with the place while others love it.

[fishhead]

Cold in summer, really cold in winter, dark in winter, mosquitoes by the pound in summer, lots of summer daylight, expensive.

In short a great adventure!

[lmrose]

Originally Posted by salmonslayer

Here is a link to my blog from the last time I was in Nome 2 years ago that has some pictures: http://salmonslayer-simplelife.blogs...&max-results=7.

Nome is extremely isolated and expensive with few trees and weather can be rough. But it is beautiful in an austere way that reminds me of the badlands. The fishing, crabbing, and hunting is great but you have to be prepared for the weather which can often be windy and cold even in the summer. Winters are long and dark while summers have long days and it gets very dusty. If I remember correctly we were paying around $8.00 for a gallon of milk, $3.50 for a loaf of bread etc. and housing is expensive, hard to come by, and would be considered sub-standard by lower 48 standards.

She really ought to consider a trip up for a few days before making a decision, some people really have a hard time with the place while others love it.

: I thought Yarmouth, Nova Scotia was the only place with $8 a gallon milk and $3.50 for a loaf of bread. Never been to Alaska but it is expensive living on this end of North America also!

[emdeengee]

Nome is very isolated. A long way from both Anchorage and Fairbanks the two largest cities. Where I live the winters are colder than in Nome. The dark winters last for Oct, Nov and Dec - about 5 hours of daylight per day - but then in January the light begins to return and it does so very, very quickly so that by April you have only about 6 hours of night. This darkness bothers some but it never affected me. I would say that it really depends on the job your husband has been offered. If it pays really, really well then this could be an adventure and a financial win. Visit Nome before you decide. I came to the far North - sight unseen - and kicking and screaming in protest and now I would never leave. We have moved many times in our married life and one thing I know for sure - you are only ever as happy as you make up your mind to be.

[NELSELGNE]

I spent a year in the Nome area, while in the Air Force.
It was COLD, SWARMS OF MOSQUITOS and EXPENSIVE.
http://www.city-data.com/city/Nome-Alaska.html
and
http://www.nomenugget.net/
video

YouTube

[Micahn]

My Dad spent 2 weeks there this summer at the GPAA gold camp. He loved it but like others said it is not a cheap place.

[texican]

What the others said.

If your into recreational or professional level drinking (the alcoholic kind) you'll be in hog heaven. I worked north of Nome, in the Bering Land Bridge National Park and Preserve, and only got into 'town' a few days a month... was more'n enough for me. I'd go birdwatching down on the beach in the wee hours of the morning (round the clock sunlight) and see more law enforcement folks dragging the passed out drunks above high tide, than I did birds.

Your at the end of the world, at Nome. I'd recommend it to everyone... wouldn't want to live there forever, though.

[salmonslayer]

Originally Posted by texican

What the others said.

If your into recreational or professional level drinking (the alcoholic kind) you'll be in hog heaven. I worked north of Nome, in the Bering Land Bridge National Park and Preserve, and only got into 'town' a few days a month... was more'n enough for me. I'd go birdwatching down on the beach in the wee hours of the morning (round the clock sunlight) and see more law enforcement folks dragging the passed out drunks above high tide, than I did birds.

Your at the end of the world, at Nome. I'd recommend it to everyone... wouldn't want to live there forever, though.

You nailed that description. Do you remember the "Board of Trade Saloon"? It is still as rowdy as ever.

[NELSELGNE]

If you have cable TV, or a satellite dish, NOME is on the "OUTDOOR CHANNEL" GOLD FEVER show this Saturday at 12 noon eastern, and will rerun Monday at 3:00 pm eastern.
UPDATE: My cable guide said it was about "Exploring Nome and searching for gold."
I watched the show and only 5 minutes was in Nome, at museums; the rest was looking for gold.

[sunflower-n-ks]

NELSELGNE - Is that today or in a week?

Thanks everyone. Some great information. Keep it coming..... DD did say that the person she is talking to said they will not let anyone accept the job without a visit to Nome first.

Since I have never lived further north than Ks, I can't imagine living there, but it might be a fun adventure.

[texican]

Originally Posted by salmonslayer

You nailed that description. Do you remember the "Board of Trade Saloon"? It is still as rowdy as ever.

Yeppers...

[sunflower-n-ks]

DD has read this thread and sent this to me to add to it.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

There is some great feedback here. I appreciate it. I have been reading the local newspaper, the Nome Nugget, and from it, I had gleaned the facts that housing is tight. In fact, it sounds like the teachers they recruit to the area tend not to stay long, at least partly due to the housing shortage. Of course, the teachers didn't all teach/live in Nome, but in some of the surronding villages. I am applying for a Medical Social Worker position at the hospital there. The social worker I am talking with loves living there with her three children, but notes that the position I am applying for has been open for nine months, which also says something to me. She said that it is indeed dark in the winter (go out at noon and run errands and catch the daylight) and light 22 hours near the summer solstice. And cold, of course.

I knew that mesquitose could be a problem in Alaska, but hadn't thought about it in Nome. I know that alcoholism is a problem statewide and Nome is no exception. But, it sounds like the problems of housing and alcoholism are more severe than I was aware of. My contact up there said that "stranger violence" is rare, but domestic violence and child abuse as the result of poverty (lack of jobs) and alcoholism is also rampant. I also noted, from the newspaper that the school drop out rate is atrocious. And, to add a cherry on top, global warming is beginning to make it challenging for those many native Americans around Nome to live off the land, which is what they depend on in order to survive.

I have always wanted to live in the northern part of the country. In some ways, the heat in the middle of summer in Kansas is just as hard on me as the short days in the middle of winter. I don't mind living in a rural area. And, I have to admit the salary up there is alluring. Social workers, like teachers, are known for making lousy salaries...Nome is starting me out at a good $30,000 year more than I am making here. I know other parts of Alaska are more temperate.

What makes Alaska so expensive to live in? I know that Nome in particular is literally cut off from the rest of the world, road wise (my understanding is that there are three roads that go about 70 miles out of Nome and stop...literally roads to nowhere). But, why is the entire state so expensive?

You are giving me alot to consider and to ask about and look for if I get that far into exploring this move. The good thing about all this is that I will not be taking a family with me, so if it does'nt work, I can leave more easily. Of course, with the job situation what it is these days, finding another job in the lower 48 states could be the challenge with returning.

Keep the feedback coming.

[arcticow]

It's expensive because everything comes up the Highway, on a ship, or by air. Retailers there just sorta figure they can double the price they paid, and get away with it... where else ya gonna go?? And with Nome, once winter sets in you're THERE unless ya fly out to Fairbanks for R&R. That's if weather permits. If you're young, go do the adventure thing. But don't count on it making you rich...

[salmonslayer]

Originally Posted by arcticow

It's expensive because everything comes up the Highway, on a ship, or by air. Retailers there just sorta figure they can double the price they paid, and get away with it... where else ya gonna go?? And with Nome, once winter sets in you're THERE unless ya fly out to Fairbanks for R&R. That's if weather permits. If you're young, go do the adventure thing. But don't count on it making you rich...

Exactly and in Nome if you ship a car or something large, even building materials, you are talking barging through the Bering sea in summer so plan ahead.

I have a 27 year old daughter who homesteads in interior Alaska, hunts, traps, and fishes when she isnt working as a nurse; I would be reluctant to have her take a job in Nome if she was by herself. Not trying to over dramatize anything, but young females are in short supply and your going to get a lot of attention whether you want it or not. The hospital there is a Native hospital that is fairly good and if your a medical social worker....you will be extremely busy. Alcoholism, other drug use, DV, and child sexual abuse is very high in Alaska and Nome is right up there with the rest.

It would also be fair to say that there arent many social drinkers in that part of the world, you go to the bars to get blitzed and Texican wasnt kidding about the local authorities dragging the drunks above the tide line. In the winter, you will be bothered by a lot of snow machines buzzing about all night and hooting and hollering if you live in town (and where else can you afford to live). If you like to smoke dope...you will find it plentiful but expensive and its very common and somewhat openly used and tolerated.

Nome is not a traditional Native village if thats what you are thinking, it was a mining camp that was not sited on a Native village though the Natives have moved to Nome and there is a very active Native corporation in the area and there are lots of Natives in Nome which brings a nice cultural aspect to the place. If your a history buff its a neat place with lots of accessible mining ruins, old narrow gauge steam train engines and dredges, Umiak frames right in town etc. Wyatt Earp used to be the law in Nome and a fair number of the buildings in the area date from the early 20th century.

Take a trip to check it out anytime between now and May before you make a decision. I like Nome and always like to visit.....but part of that enjoyment was knowing I would be leaving at some point in the near future.

[Pouncer]

I'll just chime in here too....although I have not spent any time in Nome in recent years, the same problems that plague the Bush are epidemic there too.

Alcoholism and substance abuse are rampant. Lots of "huffing" and whatever else you can imagine. The drug abuse is not easily categorized to one demographic....pretty much all ages are susceptible. As others have said, this leads to a lot of issues with DV. The greatest crimes not reported are against women and girls. Rape is common. Common. Usually by elders or family members, there is a culture of fear/intimidation at work, and as a medical social worker this is going to be the biggest challenge, I bet.

Contrary to what some have posted, these people do NOT "live off the land" in the way that many suppose. Most households are supported in one way or the other....state and federal aid is common. Welfare, social security, and so forth, complete with food stamps and Denali Kid Care (state program to provide medical care for the poor) and whatever income is provided by dividends from the respective native corporation. In short, this culture has traded its traditions for the golden bonds of government aid. (JMO here, okay?) The elders are more likely to speak the language, eat the traditional foods, and have the old skills. The younger generation is the same as anywhere else-with all its issues concentrated due to location.

Supplies are barged in during the summer months, or flown in by air. Travel is typically by air to and from the major population centers. When you get "buggy", you hop a plane to some place with real streets, stores and restaurants for a few days.

By the way, most of these positions have some sort of link to housing, please be sure to check that out. If I was new at the Bush, I would try to find a room or apt, or house very close to where I was working, so that I could walk if necessary. Stop at the Army Navy Store in downtown Anchorage to "gear up" for the cold weather clothing, and for heavens' sake, spend the money on the good stuff! You won't really need a car in Nome, there are (expensive) taxi's, and hopefully enough friends and acquaintances made for any trips up and down the strip to be accommodated.

In some ways it is still the "Wild West" in that you need to be responsible for your own personal safety to some degree. Yes, there are "cops", but rely upon yourself and your judgement, first.

And be prepared to swallow a lot of prejudice and racism too.

[texican]

If you do go, and see a gal running around with a chihuahua, tell her the folks she got it from in Texas said hi! Lady in Nome bought one of our huahuas last year. She sent pics of it in it's winter wear.... priceless...

now that I think about it, there were taxis... but I found you could walk anywhere in town in just a few minutes... reckon if you wanted to visit someone out of town, a taxi'd be the ticket. Or a bike in summer. One of the park families brought their car up on the barge, realized they didn't really need it, and doubled their money by selling it to a local.

[TedH71]

It costs $400 one way to ship a car on a barge from Seattle, WA, to Anchorage, AK, the last time my brother did this. He delivers antique or ultra expensive cars for a living. He's not rich but he's doing ok.