"fake" log cabin question

[cc-rider]

I’ve been looking at these “log” cabins that are really built of 4X6’s. They are impractical because there is no way of insulating them without ruining the look on the inside, but I love the look of the outside. And if I’m going to ruin the inside by furring it out and insulating it, why go to the bother and expense of building with these “logs”?

So I was thinking…. Instead of building with the “logs”, I could build a wall with 2x6s (normal, stick built construction), and sheath it with OSB on the outside. Then I could fasten 2x6s to the exterior wall with a ½” gap, and chink between them and still have the same effect. Except I’d have 2x6 walls on the inside for insulation purposes.

Questions: How would I fasten the 2x6’s without nails showing?
Would the chinking stay attached or would it flake off?
Would the 2x6’s eventually cup or curl or twist or dislodge?

A 20x24 shell, 8’ high made from 4x6 “logs” would cost about $2800
A 20x24 shell, 8’ high made from 2x6s, OSB, and 2x6’s for exterior façade would be about $1008. Plus I’d have space for insulation.

Thoughts??

[roachhill]

I prefer real log construction but if your shooting for fake log construction you should be able to get a chinking to stick. There are several chinking options, first off you have modern faux chinking which is a colored, textured cauk material. This is the most expensive but longest lasting. It requires a foam strip backing to allow for wood expansion. Next there is traditional chinking that's a clay mix this cost almost nothing but needs to be redone often. Finally cabins were sometimes chinked with a cement mix with extra lime to allow for expansion, this falls in between the other two options in both price and durability. With either clay or cement options you can improve the chinkings ability to stick by putting small nails in the gap behind the chink.

[just_sawing]

I have sawed for a people that have used the fake log concept.
Yes if you attach on the outside the nails screws or what ever will show.
In new construction you can attach the 2X6 to the wall from the inside. People here will attach a 2X6 then attach a 1by inbetween. This makes a good chinking gap.

[nc_mtn]

I've got some relatives that sell storage buildings. They've made several where they take wide 1" boards (they used 10" or something, we have a portable sawmill) and nail them over the plywood/osb. Leave a gap 3-4" inches wide between them. They paint the plywood before with a white or gray color. From a distance, it does look like a log building.

I'm sure you could do it with chinking. I've never done the chinking myself but with all pre-chinked houses I've seen, you only apply a thin layer. You'd get that much with just a 1" board on the outside.
Couldn't hide the nails too good, perhaps fill them and then finish staining over them if you really wanted to...But you won't notice them unless you're close anyway.
We stayed at a time share place in the smokey mountains once that had log siding. The D-Log shaped stuff. I knew right off the bat what they were as I've done some before, and noticed the nails and the corner pieces. It was a full day before I pointed it out to my parents. They thought it was real logs... so just depends on who you're trying to fool

[NELSELGNE]

A local S.E. OHIO business covered their building with "LOG SIDING"
For example: http://www.buffalo-lumber.com/log-siding.htm

[cc-rider]

I like that log siding, but at $4400 for 1500 square foot, I'm better off with board/batten or anything else.

Could I toe-nail the 2xs to the sheathing so it doesn't show, and then face-nail 1xs between them for the chinking gap? Leave a few small nails sticking out a bit to hold the chinking? I'm still concerned that the 2xs will twist or warp.

Hmmmm....maybe I'll build a small chicken coop to see if it works! LOL

[TNHermit]

If I were going to do fake log with 2x6 I would rabbet both sides. Use a dado or two cut on a table saw. Two cut would be faster and cheaper One on one edge and the other on the other LOL. One would be say 3/4 x 3/4 and the other 1-1/2 x 3/4 that way you would have a reasonably weather tite reveal (think water) sans caulking which you could put in later. Sort of double protection. If the rabbets take to much from the face use 2x8.

The 3/4 would set on the 1-1/2 giving you the 3/4 reveal. Adjust accordingly

Also I would pre coat all lumber before putting up at least a couple times because your still looking at a lot of work keepin it sealed in the future. Especially on the weather side of the house. If you could use cedar or white oak you would be better

Also with the rabbet you only have to nail the bottom orf the board less fasteners like lap siding

[Parttimefarmer]

You could always use adhesive and/or countersunk and patched nails. As far as log siding goes, we used that to enclose a porch on our real log house. It looks nice, chinks fine, but it doesn't have the deep round shape of a real log. The guy across the street made the siding for us, but Menard's has it too.

[cc-rider]

TNHermit,

If I do the rabbet thing, and face nail through the tongue that is flush with the sheating, how does the other end/overlapped part stay fastened down? I'm sorry...I've never done lap siding before! I even had to draw it out on paper this time so I understood what you were talking about...so that part makes sense, but nailing it on is still confusing me.

I like the adhesive idea, too.

[TNHermit]

Originally Posted by cc-rider

TNHermit,

If I do the rabbet thing, and face nail through the tongue that is flush with the sheating, how does the other end/overlapped part stay fastened down? I'm sorry...I've never done lap siding before! I even had to draw it out on paper this time so I understood what you were talking about...so that part makes sense, but nailing it on is still confusing me.

I like the adhesive idea, too.

You nail at the bottom just above the 3/4 rabbet. That holds the top of the bottom board also. I would use and ardox nail so they don't work their way out. You can look of the ones with the smaller head or even trim head screws for treated lumber

[Witterbound]

Seems like your cost for the 2x6 frame and siding may be a tad low. How much would the fake log siding cost?

[poorboy]

About the start of the great depression my grandad went to the Huge Grandin Mill in Grandin ,Mo. and asked Mr. Baggett(mill super) to edge some slabs for him. He built a two story house with porches from this throaway (at that time)material. Cut blocks and split shinges and roofed it. Everyone thought it was a log home.
Granma pasted burlap(from feed sacks)and newspaper on the walls. After she leveled it this way she wallpapered over it.
Dad said that everyone that saw it thought was a log home.

[Parttimefarmer]

FYI, it's also much easier to wire & plumb the hollow wall than the solid log wall. More people can work with standard construction than logs. Our barn and house use no dimensional lumber except to frame doors and windows, that confuses the heck of of people

[coalroadcabin]

chinking (modern) will stick just fine. Do yourself a favor and use the modern stuff if you're going to chink. Yes it costs more - but worth it IMO. Check with the chinking company to see if they recommend a bond-breaker behind the chinking. A lot of folks use masking tape as the bond breaker - but check with the manufacturer to be sure.

You could attach your faux log siding from the inside before you put on your interior wall covering. Use screws that will go through your OSB and 3/4 of the way into your siding.

Instead of milled lumber for your faux logs, look at a local lumber mill to see what it would cost for rough cut natural edge (some call it wavy edge) boards. I think it would look a whole lot better than uniform milled boards.

Also, for siding why would you want to use 2X lumber? Wouldn't 1X work just as well?

~Happy building!!

[Yvonne's hubby]

Originally Posted by cc-rider

I’ve been looking at these “log” cabins that are really built of 4X6’s. They are impractical because there is no way of insulating them without ruining the look on the inside, but I love the look of the outside.
Thoughts??

I built my log house out of real logs, milled down to 5 inches thick. It gets plenty cold here in Ky, down to 20 below at times and the house is nice and toasty warm without any additional insulation. The trick is to seal all the joints air tite, which I accomplished by chinking between the logs with "great stuff". Its a bit more expensive than using fiberglass and mortar, but its quick and easy and stays flexible between the logs as they shrink and swell, bend and twist with natural aging process. I see little problem with using the four by sixes, other than the aesthetics.

[cc-rider]

Originally Posted by Witterbound

Seems like your cost for the 2x6 frame and siding may be a tad low. How much would the fake log siding cost?

That cost is ONLY the sidewalls (20x24 footprint, 8' high). No flooring, or sills/headers, etc.... just studs 16" OC...and siding.

[cc-rider]

I'd LOVE to find a mill around here to buy lumber from so it wasn't so "dimensional", but I have no clue where to find one. We are a huge farming area....but not a tree to be seen. I'd have to go at least a couple hours to find a mill, and that would make delivery/transportation very expensive.

Coalroadcabin....I was thinking 2x instead of 1x just because it is about the same price, and I thought maybe it wouldn't "cup" as bad.

[Parttimefarmer]

Do you have an Amish population?

[cc-rider]

Originally Posted by Parttimefarmer

Do you have an Amish population?

Nope That'd be a couple hours away, too.

[TNHermit]

Originally Posted by cc-rider

Nope That'd be a couple hours away, too.

not knowing what part of Ohio you are from makes it hard to hep fins a mill. check around the mill sites there always list of them there