Ever patched a concrete water tank?

RedDirt Cowgirl · #1 07/19/11, 12:30 PM

Our 19th century water system has a concrete water holding tank about 10 feet square that developed serious cracks. I see previous patching. My best source of how-to on this is e-how.com - pretty pathetic, right? So I'm wondering if anyone has any experience to share before I start repairs. Am draining the tank now, but I don't think it has any way to get inside.

TNHermit · #2 07/19/11, 12:46 PM

There are expanding concrete patching stuff. just clean out the cracks and trowel it in. It will expand as it dries. Don't have names off top of my head

Sawmill Jim · #3 07/19/11, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNHermit

There are expanding concrete patching stuff. just clean out the cracks and trowel it in. It will expand as it dries. Don't have names off top of my head

Hydrolic cement ???

FarmboyBill · #4 07/19/11, 01:38 PM

Y bring back memories. My Uncle Milt hand Aunt Bert had a thick concrete stock tank on their place. Mighta been 6in thick. This was up in NE Kans. Dont know how they ever kept it from freezing in winter.

ace admirer · #5 07/19/11, 02:11 PM

if the parts are static to each other, repair as others have stated above, if parts are moving in relationship to each a silicone caulking on dried surface might work better.

TNHermit · #6 07/19/11, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sawmill Jim

Hydrolic cement ???

yea its hydraulic cement but I was trying to think of something Lowes or HD might have. Have to check it out after I get out of the shop

RedDirt Cowgirl · #7 07/19/11, 04:20 PM

It is hydraulic cement you're supposed to use, after a layer of "concrete bonding agent" - here's the link for the e-how.com instructions: http://www.ehow.com/how_6425978_repa...ter-tanks.html

The whole thing just seems implausible. I had thought silicon would be the way to go too, Ace, but maybe it wouldn't adhere to the surface under pressure??? All I know is that I'm totally ignorant here, and this feeds the watering troughs in our corral and back lot. If I can't do this right we'll be hauling water for 60 head of cattle.

frogmammy · #8 07/19/11, 04:48 PM

HD and Lowes, and most any hardware, has hydrolic cement.

Mon

fordy · #9 07/19/11, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedDirt Cowgirl

Our 19th century water system has a concrete water holding tank about 10 feet square that developed serious cracks. I see previous patching. My best source of how-to on this is e-how.com - pretty pathetic, right? So I'm wondering if anyone has any experience to share before I start repairs. Am draining the tank now, but I don't think it has any way to get inside.

................Hydraulic cement....................Dries VERY quickly , so practice with small quantity , before filing larger cracks ! available at H.depot and Lowes . , fordy

Bearfootfarm · #10 07/19/11, 06:00 PM

You could always put a "pond liner" in it if you can't patch the cracks

ace admirer · #11 07/19/11, 06:29 PM

the silicone would need to be placed on the inside of the tank, the gravity pressure would tend to push the silicone into the crack ...if placed on the outside, it would be pushed out. the concrete would have to be dried to be effective....

sikaflex is a brand we used to repair a 3 million gallon concrete tank a few decades ago...

we also used hyd cement,,and as others pointed out, a bonding agent is brushed on the surfaces before hand, that also works best with dry surfaces...

RedDirt Cowgirl · #12 07/19/11, 09:35 PM

I appreciate all your words, guys! Our local lumber supplier carries all the materials, but no one's done it before. Fordy, it does seem cement patching is something you have to develope a knack for, thanks for the tips. Ace, I'm gonna look for a way to break into the thing. Do it right, do it once...

agmantoo · #13 07/19/11, 09:52 PM

I have used a lot of this product to make water holding tanks. It is great stuff,
http://www.mortarsprayer.com/wp-cont...ing-cement.pdf

Billie in MO · #14 07/19/11, 09:58 PM

We just did this!! Not to a tank but to a concrete garage attached to a house. Leaked between the two. You absolutely have to work in very, very small batches, no more than a handful, and work very, very fast. It sets up almost instantly. It does expand and so far we have had no leaks.

Wear gloves as it hard on your hands. It took two of us. I mixed the bonding agent and water then waited until Bill was ready for the powder, poured it in and mixed. While he was doing the patching I had the next batch ready to pour together. Don't put the powder in until you are ready to patch.

ace admirer · #15 07/19/11, 09:59 PM

Hmmmm,,,careful of work inside an inclosed area....always fresh air moving into and out of area,,,,always help on the outside,,,always help on the outside that always stays on the outside....

MELOC · #16 07/19/11, 10:01 PM

i have seen members of my family repair cracks in in-ground cisterns with plain ole' mortar mix on more than one occasion. perhaps they still leaked a little bit...who knows? water is more plentiful here than in other places and perhaps little seeps were not noticed after repair. i guess my point is that if it absolutely needs to be done perfectly, disregard the following advice. if you can live with the possibility of a few seeps, just fill it in with mortar mix (wet of course).

but here is the most important part...and i will bold text because i feel strongly about this...

YOU WILL BE WORKING IN A CONFINED SPACE WHICH IS DANGEROUS.

my brother almost died while drying out the cistern with a kerosene heater. i know...sounds stupid, but sometimes people get in a hurry and don't think. he was just barely able to climb out of cistern and not pass out there...and he was by himself.

three volunteer fire fighters in my area did die several years back while working on the cistern of some older lady. they, too, were overcome by fumes from a heater. one passed out in the cistern while working and the other two died while trying to rescue him.

a cistern has no air flow. carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide can accumulate quickly and will not be noticed. i would consider adding some ventilation because even if you use no heaters, humans produce co2 and it could accumulate as well as any fumes from the substances you use to repair the leaks.

at the very least use a buddy system where you have at least one person out of the hole with eyes on and a way to get help if need be.

RedDirt Cowgirl · #17 07/20/11, 01:15 PM

Just can't express how appreciative I am for all your help - our water table is sucked dry, springs aren't feeding what they used to, and the whole antique system is interlocked. Every drop is precious.

This place has been in the family since it was homesteaded and mine claimed in the 1860's, been through some hard times, but since our dad passed away, we girls are barely hanging on by the skin of our teeth. Your sharing of experience is invaluable to us.

fordy · #18 07/20/11, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedDirt Cowgirl

Just can't express how appreciative I am for all your help - our water table is sucked dry, springs aren't feeding what they used to, and the whole antique system is interlocked. Every drop is precious.

This place has been in the family since it was homesteaded and mine claimed in the 1860's, been through some hard times, but since our dad passed away, we girls are barely hanging on by the skin of our teeth. Your sharing of experience is invaluable to us.

................HD cement is very harsh on skin , so wear rubber gloves at all times when mixing and applying on any surface ! , fordy

RedDirt Cowgirl · #19 07/21/11, 10:44 AM

Wouldn't have realized we needed gloves, we're trying so hard not to be namby-pamby, it wasn't even on my list. Smart advice to keep your hands in good shape. I am going to go with the concrete patching, cheapest option, and we're not too hot to break the thing open and crawl inside.