Well

[am1too]

It seemed like my well went dry today.

For a week or more I would get air in the line. My pump is bout 10 years old with light use to no use for most of the time. I have no clue what brand it is. It is a half horse submersible.

I was told it could be the presure regulator. Just doesn't sound right. It is pumping fine now. I haven't seen evidence of any leaks in the water line from the well or in the house.

When I moved in it was 100 ft to water in a 165 ft well. I think I have 160
foot of pipe in the hole. Not sure. I'm looking for suggestions. I may pull it to make sure what I've got. I don't remember seeing a check valve put in the pipe. I noticed it is recomended for more than 125 feet.

[Alice In TX/MO]

The pressure switch/regulator can definitely go out. We have to replace ours every two or three years.

If you have fire ants, they LOVE to get in the electrical parts.

I'd sure check that stuff above ground before pulling the well.

[am1too]

Originally Posted by Alice In TX/MO

The pressure switch/regulator can definitely go out. We have to replace ours every two or three years.

If you have fire ants, they LOVE to get in the electrical parts.

I'd sure check that stuff above ground before pulling the well.

There doesn't appear to be any insect problem. I don't think I have any fire ants.

One of the floor people at a farm supply told me presure regulators are a problem. And pointed to the fact that they are sold out. I also noted theirs was 25% cheaper than a near by competitor. Interesting. Mine is set at 50 pounds. That is 10 pounds higher than what I found locally so far.

[Alice In TX/MO]

You will most likely have to contact a plumbing supply or water well company to get a better quality regulator with higher settings. Get two. One to use now, and one to have in a place you'll remember. They *always* fail on weekends.

Edited to add: Spend the money on good quality. Water wells aren't the place to save a few dollars.

[am1too]

Originally Posted by Alice In TX/MO

You will most likely have to contact a plumbing supply or water well company to get a better quality regulator with higher settings. Get two. One to use now, and one to have in a place you'll remember. They *always* fail on weekends.

Edited to add: Spend the money on good quality. Water wells aren't the place to save a few dollars.

I'm currious what brand you have. And your right It happened a 3 PM on Saturday. My animals were close to or out of water. Turned their water over and it was hot too!

[agmantoo]

The only ways that I know that air can get into the line on the submersible pump are: (1) The checkvalve located at the pump has failed and you have a small leak above ground in the plumbing (2) The plumbing line above the pump itself has worn a hole in it from rubbing the casing (3) The bladder tank has ruptured (4) The water level has dropped below the pump itself. A string and a fishing sinker should let you know where the static water level is currently. If you/someone had left a faucet open it is possible to have pumped the stored water from the casing and that the recharge rate of the well is less than what the pump can deliver. I have pumps located below 200 ft with no above ground check valve and it is not a problem. If you do any upgrading install two ball valves with a pressure switch in between. This will let you isolate the pump side of the plumbing and the storage tank side of the plumbing from each other. You can then monitor where the pressure is holding or dropping. This is a great aid in determining what a problem exists
Hope this is clear and that it helps

[am1too]

Originally Posted by agmantoo

The only ways that I know that air can get into the line on the submersible pump are: (1) The checkvalve located at the pump has failed and you have a small leak above ground in the plumbing (2) The plumbing line above the pump itself has worn a hole in it from rubbing the casing (3) The bladder tank has ruptured (4) The water level has dropped below the pump itself. A string and a fishing sinker should let you know where the static water level is currently. If you/someone had left a faucet open it is possible to have pumped the stored water from the casing and that the recharge rate of the well is less than what the pump can deliver. I have pumps located below 200 ft with no above ground check valve and it is not a problem. If you do any upgrading install two ball valves with a pressure switch in between. This will let you isolate the pump side of the plumbing and the storage tank side of the plumbing from each other. You can then monitor where the pressure is holding or dropping. This is a great aid in determining what a problem exists
Hope this is clear and that it helps

Thanks.How would I check the bladder?

Hmmm I've had a rain birst on for hours at a time. But we've only bout 5 inches of rain since last Septermber. Not good.

Would the torque cause a hole as you suggested?

[fordy]

....................Your bladder tank will probably have a valve stem on top of the tank , it works just like an inner tube in a car tire ! Too check for proper pressure , allow all water too drain out of the tank........you'll have too turn your pressure switch....off , which kills power too the well motor. You'll see a little metal handle or the righthand side of the pressure switch.......pull it UP too the off position , (or) if , it is up push it down , very simple . Now , once all water is drained use a pressure gauge too check the pressure , most likely the pressure switch is a 40\60 , 40psi is the low side at which the well motor is turned on till the pressure inside the tank reaches 60 psi , then it is turned , off !
......................Now , the pressure , inside the rubber bladder should be set at 38 psi , or 2 psi lower than the 40 psi start pressure at which the well motor is turned , on ! Use a regular air compressor too fill the bladder too 38psi just like you'd add air too a low tire . Once you've set the air bladder with the correct pressure , turn the switch back on and wait for it too fill the tank.......take note of the pressure at which the switch turns OFF the pump . , fordy

[am1too]

Originally Posted by fordy

....................Your bladder tank will probably have a valve stem on top of the tank , it works just like an inner tube in a car tire ! Too check for proper pressure , allow all water too drain out of the tank........you'll have too turn your pressure switch....off , which kills power too the well motor. You'll see a little metal handle or the righthand side of the pressure switch.......pull it UP too the off position , (or) if , it is up push it down , very simple . Now , once all water is drained use a pressure gauge too check the pressure , most likely the pressure switch is a 40\60 , 40psi is the low side at which the well motor is turned on till the pressure inside the tank reaches 60 psi , then it is turned , off !
......................Now , the pressure , inside the rubber bladder should be set at 38 psi , or 2 psi lower than the 40 psi start pressure at which the well motor is turned , on ! Use a regular air compressor too fill the bladder too 38psi just like you'd add air too a low tire . Once you've set the air bladder with the correct pressure , turn the switch back on and wait for it too fill the tank.......take note of the pressure at which the switch turns OFF the pump . , fordy

Hey thanks a mint. I can handle that.