metal roof installation

CindyOR · #1 03/15/11, 05:24 PM

We currently have a 14+ yr composition roof on our manufactured home. In the next year or so, probably summer of 2012, I would like to install a metal roof. We've put metal roofing on all our out buildings ourselves, so think we can put the metal roofing on our house. But this time we want to add the insulation panels below the metal.

How difficult a project is this to get right? Anyone know where to find good step by step instructions?

I'd like to start purchasing materials this year and stack them up until we have everything needed then pick a weekend and get to it.

Is it better to buy the metal roofing material from a specific metal roof supplier, or is the pricing at a local home improvement type place going to end up about the same?

How difficult is the roof cap to get right? That is the one part we've never done since all the outbuildings have the slanted type shed roofs.

Any info or direction would be appreciated.
Thanks,
CindyOR

Yvonne's hubby · #2 03/15/11, 05:43 PM

I would secure firring strips horizontally, starting at the bottom, then a two foot strip of 1 inch styrofoam, another firring strip and more styrofoam till I got to the top. This will give you the insulation you need and a solid anchor for your metal roofing every couple feet up the roof. The ridge cap really isnt a problem. just lay a piece at each end of the roof, set it where its centered good at the end, mark your roofing at the very edge, snap a chalk line to the far end. Then all you have to do is line up each piece as you go matching the edge to your line. I have always used the seconds from a metal roofing dealer. Its much cheaper and so far havent been able to find the "defects". Supposedly its something to do with the color variation between different batches but I cant find it.

MO_cows · #3 03/15/11, 05:50 PM

Please, please, please shop around and buy a U.S.-made product. I will spare you the recent history of the steel biz. Just know, it's important to buy US in this field. Yes, there should be some installation tips from the manufacturer. You should be able to order the exact lengths that you need.

Steel is a great choice for roofing. Very durable and comes in many colors and patterns to get the look you want. The patterns that look like shingles or clay tile will cost more and be harder to install. The corrugated steel sheet is easiest to install and most affordable.

If you have a roof with a peak /\, putting on steel should be easy peasy. if you have a rounded roof, it will be tougher.

No problem to insulate underneath, just make sure your screws get all the way down into something structural. And the first sheet has to go on absolutely straight because all the other sheets line up with it. If you are off a little bit, you will have a nice 1/2 inch drip line at one end of the house and several inches hanging over at the other.

time · #4 03/15/11, 06:14 PM

Did my own without the insulation. Was very easy. Like MO said, first panel will determine the rest. Must get it right.

I bought materials from steel roof supplier that all the contractors use. Was much cheaper than any where else. Had to go 50 miles to pick up but was worth it. Shop around. Everything I needed was included and that made it nice. They even included a small piece marked with wich side to put towards wind direction and screw placement. Cap is simple. Valleys are simple on basic roof.

Tip: Even though the screws will drill through on their own, I pre-drilled through stacks for each side. This way it was faster to fasen the panel when placed on roof. An added benifit is all the screw heads are in uniform lines on the roof without any effort to do so. It looks very good and professional.

NewGround · #5 03/15/11, 06:15 PM

I would go for vertical strips first equal in thickness for your insulation and then horizontal battens to attach the metal. This would allow air to circulate under the metal.

Beeman · #6 03/15/11, 06:45 PM

www.metalroofing.com
Do a search on this board, more info then you can imagine.
We did our MH with metal, not sure if I would do it again. It has some advantages but also some disadvantages. We used foil/foam/foil insulation over the existing shingles and taped all seams. Cut the ridge for ventilation and built out the fascia and made sure all the soffits vented. The biggest reason we went with metal was so we could insulate from the heat. It made quite a difference in the dorect summer heat. The down side is it's no fun to walk on and impossible if it's slightly damp. There is also a lot of expansion and contraction from the direct sun. You can hear it as it expands and shrinks and you can see it bow up, ripple and then lay down when it cools. We get a lot of fall out from a coal power plant so it doesn't take long for ours to look bad either.

lonelytree · #7 03/15/11, 07:12 PM

What is currently in your roof for insulation? Is it a cold roof or a warm roof? What is the pitch? I installed a metal roof over R34, vapor barriored it, installed T&G over then inside and it works to -40. 12/12 pitch and it is cold enough to hold snow but warm inside with a small woodstove. 20 X 32' upstairs and 20 X 24 downstairs. A 14 year old mobile home should have decent insulation. Adding to it without getting an EXPERT could cause mold and other issues. Be very careful and seek professional advice.

I would go with standing seam for ease of installation, very few scres showing. No screws in the field to have to replace the rubber on. Usually 3 screws at the eave that show.

Bearfootfarm · #8 03/15/11, 10:18 PM

Quote:

And the first sheet has to go on absolutely straight because all the other sheets line up with it. If you are off a little bit, you will have a nice 1/2 inch drip line at one end of the house and several inches hanging over at the other.

The way to avoid that is let it hang over farther on each end than you want, and when it's all down , chalk a line and cut each side equally

tnokie · #9 03/16/11, 10:00 AM

We had our hopuse built new. The same three men did all the work from ground up. They did not know how to install a metal roof! Ours has been repaired once and still leaks like a sieve!. Get some one who knows the business to do it" Metal roofs are not as easy to "fix" as regular roofs when something goes wrong. We are so disguted we scretely hope every windstorm rips it off so we can get a new one put on.

volleypc · #10 03/16/11, 10:17 AM

Make sure you check what brands and what colors are energy star. I know you have get a tax credit in 2011, you may be able to in 2012 as well.

I will be working on a cabin later this winter and will be installing a cool metal roof system. Not sure what brand yet.. I am still pricing everything out.

Pelenaka · #11 03/16/11, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beeman

www.metalroofing.com
Do a search on this board, more info then you can imagine.

Thanks for the link, had metal installed over the porch & kitchen area 3 years ago. Now it's time to do the main roof which is a 12 12 pitch with two valleys. Straight forward no domers but do need to add a bathroom vent. If it wasn't a two & half story house I'd try & sweet talk the family into a DIY bonding expirence.
It will be a complete tear off.

~~ pelenaka ~~

MO_cows · #12 03/16/11, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bearfootfarm

The way to avoid that is let it hang over farther on each end than you want, and when it's all down , chalk a line and cut each side equally

That works a lot better with wood products than corrugated steel. You can't just zip a circular saw thru the stuff.

Leave the drip line you want all nice and even and clean at the bottom. Any "irregularities" will be up at the top and will be covered up by the ridgecap.

CindyOR · #13 03/16/11, 07:01 PM

One of my concerns for a long lasting roof is that the screws we used on the shop have loosened over time due to really high winds (90mph+) and they don't seem to be able to be tightened. Is there an adhesive you should use on the corner screws to avoid this problem?

I think our insulation on the MH is Ok and we probably don't need more, but I'm concerned a bit about the sound factor during hail or heavy rain. Without more insulation, will we be going mad inside during a storm?

Our room is a standard MH roof. Low pitch, no fancy stuff. Good thing for us is the only people to ever see our roof when it is completed is the drug checking planes and helicoptors that go overhead during their sweeps. Hope they don't complain when we don't get a fancy pattern!

Still lots to consider and lots of research to do, but I didn't even think of the tax credit part. I'll have to check in to that. And we are trying to buy US whenever we can, so that will definitely be considered before purchasing.

Thanks for lots of thought provoking material.
CindyOR

fishhead · #14 03/16/11, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnokie

We had our hopuse built new. The same three men did all the work from ground up. They did not know how to install a metal roof! Ours has been repaired once and still leaks like a sieve!. Get some one who knows the business to do it" Metal roofs are not as easy to "fix" as regular roofs when something goes wrong. We are so disguted we scretely hope every windstorm rips it off so we can get a new one put on.

If they had never done it before I wonder if they put the screws on the flat instead of the top of the ridges. I've heard of people doing that and having to rip it all off and buy new steel.

MO_cows · #15 03/16/11, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhead

If they had never done it before I wonder if they put the screws on the flat instead of the top of the ridges. I've heard of people doing that and having to rip it all off and buy new steel.

Depends on the product whether you go thru the ridges or the flats. Find out from the manufacturer.

jwal10 · #16 03/16/11, 11:28 PM

If you buy metal roofing and store it make sure no water gets between the sheets, it discolors and rusts very quickly....James

MO_cows · #17 03/16/11, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwal10

If you buy metal roofing and store it make sure no water gets between the sheets, it discolors and rusts very quickly....James

You must have bought some very poor quality stuff. My husband makes corrugated steel on his job. We have bought seconds, rejected orders and all manner of odds and ends on the cheap over the years. It sits stacked together out in the weather for years and whenever we use some, it just needs hosed off. Good steel with a good finish should not do that!

Hoop · #18 03/17/11, 07:32 AM

Personally, I would avoid using only furring strips.
I'm convinced that this puts one on a path to serious condensation issues.

Its easier than one thinks.
Make sure the roof is property vented coming up from the sofitts. Insulate accordingly, but make certain to not block off any venting.
Then use plywood or OSB on top of the framing. Cover the plywood/OSB with 30# felt and install the metal.
Result will be a metal roof that will last 50 years.

Usingmyrights · #19 03/17/11, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO_cows

That works a lot better with wood products than corrugated steel. You can't just zip a circular saw thru the stuff.

Actually there is. I picked one up last week and put it to work today. Its called the "Krome King". I don't remember which company made it, but it was their mid grade metal blade. I picked up the metal used awhile back and don't recall if its 24 or 26ga, but its not light.

MO_cows · #20 03/17/11, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Usingmyrights

Actually there is. I picked one up last week and put it to work today. Its called the "Krome King". I don't remember which company made it, but it was their mid grade metal blade. I picked up the metal used awhile back and don't recall if its 24 or 26ga, but its not light.

Wear eye protection and long sleeves, it will throw sparks and maybe even hot shavings. And the edge will still never look as good as the factory cut.