mixing fertilizers

[pcdreams]

been talking to the MFA here, apparently they can no longer bag fertilizer (due to the OK City fiasco) and I don't need enough that they will deliver/spread it.

So I'm looking at my soil test and trying to figure out how to make it all work out and get the numbers close

I'll give an example, my thoughts and hopefully I can figure out the others with the info for this one

the field is 1 acre
Soil test show I need

N - 30#
P - 135#
k - 105#

for the P they recommended 0-46-0
for the N & K they recommend triple 13 (13-13-13)

I guess my question is how to mix these so as not to get to much

Here's my line of thinking

to figure phosphate = superphosphate you take recommendation and divide by .46 this gives you per 1000sqft (acre is 43560) thus

105/.46 x 43.56 = 9943 lbs.. dang that sound like a lot

that takes care of the P but if you're going to use triple 13 for N & K, the P will be high.. Is this a problem? Or should I go at it from the other way. figuring the triple 13 then the P ?

any way I figure it I'm going to high or low in one or more elements. LOL

[Paquebot]

As per those recommendations for 1 acre, try 150# of 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate, 300# of 0-46-0 triple superphosphate, and 175# 0-0-60 muriate of potash. That will give you 31½# nitrogen, 138# phosphorus, and 105# potassium.

Martin

[Lazy J]

You divided by .46 when you should have divided by 43.56.

Unless you have a Potash source you won't you will either be over applying N or under applying K.

[Old Vet]

Originally Posted by Paquebot

As per those recommendations for 1 acre, try 150# of 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate, 300# of 0-46-0 triple superphosphate, and 175# 0-0-60 muriate of potash. That will give you 31½# nitrogen, 138# phosphorus, and 105# potassium.

Martin

Once you put that amount out you need to work it in or let it set their until a large rain comes and let it leach in the soil. If you don't there will be a burn off of all the vegetation their.If it is going on a lawn or pasture cut it in half and apply it on two days about a month apart.

[Paquebot]

Originally Posted by Old Vet

Once you put that amount out you need to work it in or let it set their until a large rain comes and let it leach in the soil. If you don't there will be a burn off of all the vegetation their.If it is going on a lawn or pasture cut it in half and apply it on two days about a month apart.

Spread that over an acre and it ain't going to burn anything no matter what's growing there!

Martin

[Bearfootfarm]

I don't need enough that they will deliver/spread it.

9943 lbs.. dang that sound like a lot

I think your numbers are off.

You can still buy bagged fertilizers, but you may have to pay a little more.

[rambler]

You can't get to where you need to be with the 2 products you mention.

You need access to 0-0-60 as well.

I'd suggest finding a different forum of N as well - Urea is 46-0-0 and in most locations is the better N source. I think your salemen are not so good there, and you might want to look to a different ag-based firm? You're getting a ride here....

Anyhow, using triple 13 and 0-46-0 only, you would figure:

200 lbs of 16-16-16 will give you 32lbs of each product per acre, or will meet your N needs. (200 lbs times .16 = 32 lbs actual product)

Add in 220 lbs of 0-46-0 so you will be applying 101 lbs of P per acre. (220 lbs times .46 = 101.2 actual)

Which brings you to applying a total of:

32 lbs N
133 lbs P
32 lbs K

In the 420 lbs of blended product this will make to apply per acre.

Then you need to add more K, you are about 75 lbs short. Obviously you are not growing corn or a grass on your ground, as you need so little N! So there is no way to get all the K you need with only those 2 products, or you will be way over applying N.

I'd look for a different supplier, as the advice you are getting is nutty to only use triple 13 - that is a poor, expensive product.....

Added: When applying an N product, it is wise to work it into the ground soon - either a rainfall which is hard to guess, or a harrow/ cultivator/ disk within a couple hours so the N gets itself attached to dirt instead of trying to attach to air (a simple example of the complicated way bits of N turn into either plant fertilizer or back into 'worthless' air...) Working in P & K into the top few inches of soil also helps them be available for your crops soon, as opposed to sitting on the surface and very very slowly working themselves into the ground - so while you won't lose them without working the ground, it's a good idea to do so for them as well.

--->Paul

[Paquebot]

It would be easy if one could find a simple bagged option but bulk blends took over years ago. Your needs would be something close to a 3-14-11 ratio which never existed as a granular product. Closest that I made would have been 6-24-12, 7-28-14, and 8-32-16. (I was a manufacturing foreman for F. S. Royster Co.)

If you use the type of ingredients that I mentioned, you won't have to worry about nitrogen being fugitive. Also, all would be available in 25# or 50# bags. You'd have the minimum that you require without being either a few pounds short or a lot of excess.

Martin

[Heritagefarm]

Originally Posted by Old Vet

Once you put that amount out you need to work it in or let it set their until a large rain comes and let it leach in the soil. If you don't there will be a burn off of all the vegetation their.If it is going on a lawn or pasture cut it in half and apply it on two days about a month apart.

Allen Nation of SGF recommends applying fertilizer across the year, instead of all at once.

[Old Vet]

Originally Posted by Heritagefarm

Allen Nation of SGF recommends applying fertilizer across the year, instead of all at once.

That is what I would do you need to remember that if you put it all out at once you will not have any for the last of the season. I used a lot of fertilizer but I never put it all out at once even if I thought it wouldn't burn it back. and 625 lbs per acre is a good dose.

[Paquebot]

Originally Posted by Heritagefarm

Allen Nation of SGF recommends applying fertilizer across the year, instead of all at once.

Originally Posted by Old Vet

That is what I would do you need to remember that if you put it all out at once you will not have any for the last of the season. I used a lot of fertilizer but I never put it all out at once even if I thought it wouldn't burn it back. and 625 lbs per acre is a good dose.

You both are assuming that the OP wants to top-dress an existing crop rather than fertilize a soil. To do the later, it's done at or just prior to planting time and one operation. Were it done in split operations, then there'd be a need for side-dressing equipment as well as a spreader.

Martin

[pcdreams]

thanks for the info everyone. I figured maybe I was getting the runaround because I'm new.

I'll let you know what happens. maybe a while with tight finances and all

[Heritagefarm]

Originally Posted by Paquebot

You both are assuming that the OP wants to top-dress an existing crop rather than fertilize a soil. To do the later, it's done at or just prior to planting time and one operation. Were it done in split operations, then there'd be a need for side-dressing equipment as well as a spreader.

Martin

I can see the difficulties there, but Stockman Grass Farmer is, of course, a cattle-and-grass oriented publication, so fertilizing year-round would be doable.

[Old Vet]

Originally Posted by Paquebot

You both are assuming that the OP wants to top-dress an existing crop rather than fertilize a soil. To do the later, it's done at or just prior to planting time and one operation. Were it done in split operations, then there'd be a need for side-dressing equipment as well as a spreader.

Martin

You are correct If he was going to start a garden then put it all out at one time and till it in. If he was going to fertilize his yard then he would need to do as I suggested.

[uncle Will in In.]

What is going to be growing on this acre??? Makes a big difference in what would be needed and when and how it should be applied. Different plants have different requirements.

[rambler]

If you are working up the soil, it is real good to get the P & K worked into the soil a few inches to 6 inches or so. These items don't move well, and when you broadcast thrm on grass field it can take months to years for them to seep into the root zone. That slow release is good for soil maintaining, but if you are low on these things, much better to work them in the soil if you can.

N is better to spoon feed to the crop, but man forms of N fertilizer tend to 'boil off' into the air over time, so again it's good to work it into the soil. If you are feeding a growing crop, you want to be careful not to apply too much N to the surface, or hit the leaves with a lot of it. Spoon feeding N on sandy, light spoils can have real benifits. Applying all the N on clay soils and working it in is typically cheaper & just as good if not better. If you are feeding a grass crop, you have to be careful to feed slowly and hopefully before a rain or watering to help work it in. N will easily move through the soil with water.

Everyone is listing good ideas for certain conditions. Depends on your soil type; if you need the fertilizer badly for this crop or if it is to maintain your good soil; if you can do tillage or not; and so forth.

More info than needed for this I'm sure.

--->Paul

[pcdreams]

this would be for establishing an apple orchard. P is very low (10#/acre).
what I had in mind was getting the P & K in and planting some buckwheat as a cover crop, both to kill out existing grass and build up organic matter. then next spring getting in there and planting trees. and likely plant buckwheat back between rows.

It'll likely take a while to get that much area planted so I figured I could build the soil as I go.

[Paquebot]

In that case, switch to 200# of potassium sulfate if your coop get it. We got it in 50# bags last year but had to order in advance. It will be more expensive but it's slower action than muriate. Stick with triple for the P, and granulated rather than powder. Ammonium sulfate would be the slowest of the more common N options and will last longer. But you are correct in that it is not needed until just prior to planting your trees.

Martin

[Bearfootfarm]

likely plant buckwheat back between rows

If you'd plant clover, it will provide nitrogen and wouldn't grow as tall