Cedar or steel posts

[Mark Twain]

I am getting ready to build about 2500' of cross fence in the Ozarks and I have a mounted auger to the bore holes but here is my dilemma.
I can buy 4" cedar posts for $3 each and heavy steel T-posts cost about $5.50 so why spend the extra for T-posts?
Should I just use all cedar posts or will I save so much time using 3 T-posts to every cedar post that it is worth the extra expense?
Also is it easier to auger in rocky ground or pound in T-posts?

[motdaugrnds]

I can tell you what occurred here. We, too, had rocky ground (also heavy clay & hard sand) to go through when we put up our parameter fencing. We used many cedars (8' long and 4+" diameter). In 10 years we had to redo every single one of them as they had rotted at the base.

The "treated" fencing posts we used worked well and have lasted over 15 yrs already. We also started using T-Posts in between the treated to save money. Digging a 2+' hole for a treated post, rocking the bottom to stabilize it and then pouring concrete in that hole was time-consuming; yet what we winded up with is sturdy enough to hold anything that comes its way. (If we hit a large hard rock while digging holes, we simply used our iron rod to break it up and move it.) Driving T-Posts into the ground was faster yet harder on the arm as we only had a 4 lb hammer to do so with. (If we hit one of our hard rocks, we simply pulled that T-Post up and moved it over until we no longer hit stone too hard to get through.)

If you have a machine doing your pounding, you are good to go with T-Posts. (I will never use cedar for fencing again.) Our favorite fencing posts are "treated" (8' x 4+") placed 8 ft apart. We like them this long because there are some areas we double fence (one 48" on top of another 48") to deter deer and these 8' posts permit this.

[Witterbound]

I live in NWA, and have cedar posts, put in by the previous owner. Many of them are now eaten away on the bottoms. I believe they have lasted about 10 to 15 years. I'm putting in a new fence today. I'm using treated posts for the ends, and t posts in the middle. The ground here is awful rocky, and I'll save a lot of time driving the t posts, instead of having to dig a post holes with my tractor.

[mqualls82]

I've got cedar post fence put in by my great grandparents in the '20. And the posts rotted off in the '90's. It was on the side of a ridge though.

[Beeman]

Most cedar posts of today are small diameter cedars that people just strip, cedar posts of yesterday were large diameter cedars split down into heartwood for fenceposts. The heartwood of a cedar is the part that is rot resistant, the white outer wood isn't. Chances are if you use $3 cedar posts you will be rebuilding your fence in 5 years, not a long time for a fence.

[ErinP]

Beeman is probably right.
The lighter, outer part of the post will rot. The inner, red part will not. Consequently, you want a post that's at least 6-8" in diameter.


Personally, were I building an entirely new, permanent fence, I'd go with hedge posts. They're cheap because they're a weed like cedars, but they'll last for decades...

[tinknal]

I see no reason that you would need more steel posts than cedar posts.

If looks are not a concern you can often find good used steel posts for sale for much less than new.

[arcticow]

I vote with ErinP, hedge or bois d'arc here are as old as I am and still solid. I personally don't like T-posts in rocks. If I want a certain spacing in my posts, I don't want to just move over till I can drive steel deep enuff.

[salmonslayer]

I am in the middle of a cross fencing project in the Ozarks right now my self and my question is where are you getting T-Posts for $5.50? I sure would love to find your source!!

We use T-Posts with a treated 6" diameter wood post every 6 T-Posts and it works fine for stretching wire. I also have many cedar logs from clearing around our pond but we use those for fencing off garden areas and the like.

WE are hand pounding the t-posts which works good this time of year and we are also hand digging the wood post holes to a depth of 36".....an auger is definitely in our near future. We also set our posts in concrete and we got 80lb sacks of Quickrete at Lowes for $1.00 a bag...everytime they have a bunch of torn bags they sell them for $1.00 and I snatch up all they have.

Oh, to add - if your using the cheap less heavy duty T-Posts your going to have problems in this soil due to the rocks (I have bent T-Posts, torn off the spade etc). We use the heavy T-Posts and a very heavy post pounder and I can literally drive through or push aside most limestone but you need a lot of strength to do it and it does wear you out.

[trbizwiz]

I'll second hedge over cedar posts. I'll bet in the example above of the fence installed in the 20's those were hedge posts. They are abundant in SW missouri you might be able to cut them for free off of a local farm.
Used t posts will be $3 each. They are easy to straighten in a vice.
The cheapest fence would be electric. It will require many fewer posts. Probably every 25 to 50 feet instead of every 8 feet. The wire is cheaper too. Power flex fence in Seymore MO would be a good resource. Their web site has helpful how articles and pics. They have great prices too. Good luck.


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[whiterock]

Originally Posted by Mark Twain

I am getting ready to build about 2500' of cross fence in the Ozarks and I have a mounted auger to the bore holes but here is my dilemma.
I can buy 4" cedar posts for $3 each and heavy steel T-posts cost about $5.50 so why spend the extra for T-posts?
Should I just use all cedar posts or will I save so much time using 3 T-posts to every cedar post that it is worth the extra expense?
Also is it easier to auger in rocky ground or pound in T-posts?

I would alternate wood ant T posts. As the wood rots out replace with t posts, you will end up with all T posts, but space the cost out over a period of time. Some of the cedar will last a long time also, I'm 60 and some posts on this place were put in the ground before I was born. Of course, some I put in 10 years ago are rotted too.

[Darren]

Hedge posts are probably the absolute best natural wooden post you can find. There's a post test that's been running over 50 years. Only the hedge posts show no deterioration. In that test even the creosoted posts are starting to show some surface deterioration.

[Mark Twain]

Hey everybody,
Thanks for so many replies so quickly and the recommendations are excellent!
I guess I will either get treated posts or try to find hedge posts somewhere near Ava.
The idea of used T-posts is something I'll have to check and see who sells them.
I understand you can rent a machine that drives T-posts and that sound like it might be worth investigating.
Thanks again, Chip

[VaFarmer]

Don't waste your time & effort with cedar post, a lot more trouble to be replacing post & fence than build it well the 1st time. Around here we use yellow locust post a lot. I have a 30 yr old locust fence that I'm replacing the boards on but the post are still OK. 25 yr old pressure treated fence that is doing well but has some broken post I guess from bumping with the tractor (there pine after all). Also I can get the old removed kreasote electric power poles for free sometimes and cut those down and use them for gate post and to build braced sections in the fence row on long runs. Had a small area I did in cedar about 15 yrs ago and had to replace them after 8yrs, also the cedar are light weight and break off easy.

[Patt]

We do treated posts for the corners and t-posts for the rest too. Good luck with your fence this place is terrible for rocks!

[Backfourty,MI.]

We started out using wood, alot of cedar posts for our animal fencing & they rot out & end up putting T posts in their place. We have heavy clay soil & easier to pound them in than auger or use a post hole digger for the cedar posts, plus I think the T-posts will save you time & money down the road.

[glenn amolenaar]

I'm located close to I44 between Springfield & Joplin. I'm wanting to get rid of the hedge trees here there are many that will make corner and line posts. The sap will start rising soon so now is a good time to cut posts. I'd make a sweet deal if you wanted to come cut your own posts. email mologhomes.glenn@gmail.com
Glenn

[SmokeEater2]

I have rocky ground in my part of AR too. I've had the best luck with T posts and treated posts for the corners. (braced)

[trbizwiz]

Glen you must be a neighbor. I live in Mt Vernon. To the guy in Ava if you want to consider electric fence Powerflex fence is in Seymour mo just up the road.
I used their Powerflex composite posts 50 feet spacing, and 5 strands of ht wire. I also used cedar posts for the corners so if you want you can come out and see what cedar posts look like after 2.5 years. I will be replacing them in about 2 more years. I'll probably use steel posts for the corners next time. 3 inch steel pipe. Lucky for me the way I built my fence changing corners won't be impossible and I don't have to take down the whole fence to do it. I definitely won't ever recommend cedar to anyone else though.


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[bruce2288]

There is no need to concrete line posts. A wooden line post tamped on installation will be more solid than a t post. Concrete around posts also can retain moisture around the post. use caution and save money.