Cost Of Steel Roof?

RVcook · #1 02/02/11, 02:44 PM

I am SO over ice damming...

I have owned 4 homes previously and NEVER had this problem!!!

We called insulation specialists in last fall who insulated the attic areas above the bedrooms and bathrooms. But they explained to me that we have what is called a "HOT" roof and there was nothing they could do to 'fix' our problem.

So after a bit of research, it became quickly apparent that we have 3 choices to 'fix' this issue:

1. Scrap the cathedral ceiling with it's plank wood finish and exposed beams. Dropping the ceiling to an 8' height and insulating to R-65 (like the rest of the house) would DEFINITELY 'fix' the problem. Least expensive option.

2. Insulate the cathedral ceiling from the inside by building a large airspace, spray foaming the exposed plank wood finish and then installing drywall or another plank wood finish over it. Moderately expensive option.

3. Bite the bullet and spring for a steel roof. Even though we spent over $5K for a new roof in 2007, installing a steel roof and new gutters would most certainly 'fix' the problem and look good too. Most expensive option.

My question is does anyone have an idea of how steel roofing is priced? And if you have steel roofing, what has been your experience.

I'm just trying to weigh all the options. Going up and down a 16' ladder in my snow boots is starting to wear on me...ain't gettin' no younger...

RVcook

michiganfarmer · #2 02/02/11, 03:11 PM

I paid $0.90 per linear foot last summer for steel roofing, and I installed it myself

RVcook · #3 02/02/11, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michiganfarmer

I paid $0.90 per linear foot last summer for steel roofing, and I installed it myself

Thank you for your response. May I ask...Did you purchase it wholesale? That seems relatively inexpensive. And since you installed it yourself, did you go right over the existing roof installing sound-barrier insulation or did you have to do a tear off?

Hmmmm...still...we would have to have someone install it for us.

RVcook

Alice In TX/MO · #4 02/02/11, 03:25 PM

We are in south Texas, and ice damming isn't an issue, but we have a metal roof because of needing to have a hail proof roof. Installed about 10 years ago, 2000 sq foot house, hip roof, $9000.

It reduces your insurance payments on the house, too.

RVcook · #5 02/02/11, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alice In TX/MO

We are in south Texas, and ice damming isn't an issue, but we have a metal roof because of needing to have a hail proof roof. Installed about 10 years ago, 2000 sq foot house, hip roof, $9000.

It reduces your insurance payments on the house, too.

Well that's certainly good to know! Thanks.

RVcook

plowjockey · #6 02/02/11, 03:35 PM

Steel roofing is reasonably priced - It's buying the screws, gaskets and peak/trim pieces, is where you take the beating.

Still a great way to roof.

just curious, what problems do you have, when you get ice damming?

RVcook · #7 02/02/11, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plowjockey

...just curious, what problems do you have, when you get ice damming?

We get an indoor waterfall...so ridiculous! And the amount of ice that forms on that "HOT" roof is equally ridiculous. Then more snow falls and insulates...and more melts...and the ice continues to thicken and thicken until it finally backs up and finds its way down the interior walls. Ughh!!!

Yep...definitely over it!

RVcook

tiogacounty · #8 02/02/11, 04:09 PM

I can't see the logic of wasting an nearly new roof. I would strip the interior planking, remove the existing insulation and have the rafter bays sprayed full of high density ureathane. This is a legitimate hot roof and it will not dam. Currently you probably have a poorly ventilated system and not a hot roof.

fishhead · #9 02/02/11, 04:36 PM

Ice dams mean you are paying extra for winter heating.

What about putting down several inches of foam and covering that with steel?

RVcook · #10 02/02/11, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tiogacounty

I can't see the logic of wasting an nearly new roof. I would strip the interior planking, remove the existing insulation and have the rafter bays sprayed full of high density ureathane. This is a legitimate hot roof and it will not dam. Currently you probably have a poorly ventilated system and not a hot roof.

Well...considering that there is NO venting on the "HOT" side, you are correct that poor ventilation is the problem. No problems with the other part of the conventional, 8' ceiling-well insulated-well ventilated attic.

You do make a good point about stripping the planking...if that's possible...and sprayfoaming. A little more work, but probably a LOT less in cost. Definitely worth serious consideration. Thanks!

RVcook

RVcook · #11 02/02/11, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhead

Ice dams mean you are paying extra for winter heating.

What about putting down several inches of foam and covering that with steel?

I think the insulation would be included if we re-roofed...more as a sound deadener, but paying for additional insulation would probably do the trick to help insulate.

Yes...all the heat rises and stays there the entire winter. Even with our ceiling fan going 24/7 for 6 months, it does little to circulate the heat up there.

I really do hate to be so whiney!!!! But I am really frustrated...can you tell???

RVcook

tiogacounty · #12 02/02/11, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVcook

Well...considering that there is NO venting on the "HOT" side, you are correct that poor ventilation is the problem. No problems with the other part of the conventional, 8' ceiling-well insulated-well ventilated attic.

You do make a good point about stripping the planking...if that's possible...and sprayfoaming. A little more work, but probably a LOT less in cost. Definitely worth serious consideration. Thanks!

RVcook

The other compelling reason to take this route is that you might find a disturbing amount of mold and maybe some rot issues as well. If that's the case, tackling the problem with everything exposed is a lot better than living in an unhealthy house. My spray foam contractor told me about an insurance job he just did. It was a rotting roof in a heavily wooded area. The insurance company's contractor removed the ceiling and insulation and had the rafter bays sprayed full. My guy asked why the ins. co. would spend so much more to spray foam, when they could of put fiberglass batts back in? The supervisor replied that it would be cheaper to fix it right the first time. Good luck

RVcook · #13 02/02/11, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tiogacounty

The other compelling reason to take this route is that you might find a disturbing amount of mold and maybe some rot issues as well. If that's the case, tackling the problem with everything exposed is a lot better than living in an unhealthy house. My spray foam contractor told me about an insurance job he just did. It was a rotting roof in a heavily wooded area. The insurance company's contractor removed the ceiling and insulation and had the rafter bays sprayed full. My guy asked why the ins. co. would spend so much more to spray foam, when they could of put fiberglass batts back in? The supervisor replied that it would be cheaper to fix it right the first time. Good luck

Excellent point!

So now the question is...how much to spray-foam??? I have NO clue!

RVcook

zookeeper16 · #14 02/02/11, 05:16 PM

I manage an office for a roofer and we are in Wisconsin also (between Appleton & Point). Why don't you give him a call? Cover All Metal & Roofing, ask for Mark....920*606*8646. He can answer your questions and if you'd like, give you free estimates on each option.

MO_cows · #15 02/02/11, 05:18 PM

Well sounds like new roofing material might not be your total solution, but if you do re-roof, steel is the way to go. We have "secondary" corrugated steel on our sheds that has been out in the weather for 20+ years and still looks great. We put steel roofs on our house and garage, both look really good and should be the last roof they ever need in our lifetime. Snow slides right off.

RVcook · #16 02/02/11, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zookeeper16

I manage an office for a roofer and we are in Wisconsin also (between Appleton & Point). Why don't you give him a call? Cover All Metal & Roofing, ask for Mark....920*606*8646. He can answer your questions and if you'd like, give you free estimates on each option.

Thanks Lisa...if we decide to go this route, I'll give Mark a call!

RVcook

RVcook · #17 02/02/11, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO_cows

...Snow slides right off.

My roofing dream...LOL!!!

RVcook

Txrider · #18 02/02/11, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhead

What about putting down several inches of foam and covering that with steel?

A lot of the steel roofing out there now has foam insulation attached to it.

brownegg · #19 02/02/11, 05:32 PM

I'm also thinking that a steel roof is the way to go. I'm able to keep the ice dams to a minimum by using the roof rake with every snow...a real pain for sure. The last roofer changed the ridge vent and I'm thinking thats where my roof's ability to breathe is coming from.
One also has to cosider what type of steel roof you want....standing seam, or ribbed steel....I really think the new steel shingles would'nt help at all. The ice could still back under them.
brownegg

4nTN · #20 02/02/11, 05:33 PM

I`m not real sure what a "hot roof " is. I recently started a thread with a problem that sounds very much like yours.But i`m not sure how to link that thread into this post.
The thread was called,"Help,my roof is leaking".You may want to read it before you invest in a steel roof.I thought a steel roof would fix my leaky roof,so did everyone else I talked to.My roof still leaks.