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  #1  
Old 12/31/10, 06:20 PM
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Sharpen your chainsaw blade in 4 to 5 seconds!

Anyone ever use one of these Oregon PowerSharp systems. Apparently, the kit includes the bar, chain and sharpener. I saw it on "Ask This Old House" and was amazed. Besides the price (~$70.00) there must be a drawback.



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  #2  
Old 12/31/10, 06:34 PM
 
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I guess the initial investment would be for just the sharpening attachment, a new bar & chain may raise that price a bit. It looks like an innovation that could be ideal for many folks.

I will follow up on this........hopefully they have a ripping chain such as I use in my Alaska type chainsaw mill. The frequent sharpening of the chain is a huge drawback to production. This would indeed cut downtime drastically.

Thanks for the info.
Fox.

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  #3  
Old 12/31/10, 06:44 PM
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I just noticed these last week as I was shopping for a new chain.
Any one have some "real world" experience with this yet?

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  #4  
Old 12/31/10, 06:57 PM
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Years ago I had a Saw with Basically the System built in.If I remember right it did ok.

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  #5  
Old 12/31/10, 07:18 PM
 
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Being a cheap SOB, I guess the minutes I spend sharpening is a good deal. About 5 minutes start to stop works for me. At $70. I can sharpen a lot of chain.

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  #6  
Old 12/31/10, 07:26 PM
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it may work it may not work but either way WHY fix what isn't broken

file holders and guides are cheap and last maybe not forever but thousands and thousands of sharpenings most peoples forever

files do not last forever but a 4 pack of files is maybe 5 bucks thats less than a dollar a year on saw sharpening for most users

so you keep your manufacturers bar and chain so you can find them easy even if you may be away form the dealer that carries this contraption

you save your self a bunch of money and you still get very sharp saw chain in a few minutes , and you need a break after 40 minutes of cutting (thats how long my saw runs on a tank of gas)

education on how to properly sharpen a chain with a file and a vice to hole your bar will have you cutting and saving money and getting much more wood out of a chain than you ever thought possable

i am 2 years on one chain 5-6 cord a year as long as i don't hit any nails i think 2 more years is possable to expected would be longer but i did at one point hit a rock and it took a lot off the cutters

also i don't see how this system adjusts the gauge part of the cutting link , this is important and done with a file that is smooth on the small edges , how you get those nice big chips again

24 dollars for a very nice stihl sharpening kit in a case with the files the holder the gauge the flat file for gauge adjustment and your all set , maybe add a vise to your truck , tractor or trailer or a stup vise if you cut deeper in the woods

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  #7  
Old 12/31/10, 08:10 PM
 
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never had a chain last long enough to need sharping. I got a piece of crap huskvarna that even with a brand new bar and chain the tensioner is over half way done and it doesent take much sawing before its has no more adjustment.

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  #8  
Old 12/31/10, 08:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rancher1913 View Post
never had a chain last long enough to need sharping. I got a piece of crap huskvarna that even with a brand new bar and chain the tensioner is over half way done and it doesent take much sawing before its has no more adjustment.
Oh wow!

A chain should be sharpened after 4 to 8 hours of work. If you are seriously wearing out saws before you sharpen the chain you are killing your saws by not sharpening. My Stihl has gone through at least 5 chains. It is 30 years old and is still going strong. You REALLY need to learn how to sharpen a chain.l
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  #9  
Old 12/31/10, 08:36 PM
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My son is a faller for a local timber company. When he's working, he sometimes goes through 3 chains a day, depends on the species. He just uses a file, sharpens his chains every evening, but he appears to have a whole bunch of them, so it isn't the same chains every day. He looked at the sharpener above and said "it's a gimmick". So there you have it from a someone who swings a chainsaw 8 hrs or more a day.

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  #10  
Old 12/31/10, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rancher1913 View Post
never had a chain last long enough to need sharping. I got a piece of crap huskvarna that even with a brand new bar and chain the tensioner is over half way done and it doesent take much sawing before its has no more adjustment.
Could you get a link or two taken out of your chains? "My" Stihl guy sells chain anyway you want it... short or long.

The sharpener looks interesting... will try and save up some bandwidth to watch the youtube video.
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  #11  
Old 12/31/10, 09:30 PM
 
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Sharpen your chainsaw blade in 4 to 5 seconds!

Sears had BARRACUDA POWER-SHARP chains on their saws in 1970's.
I had a small McCULLOCH with a BARRACUDA chain that cut fine, UNTIL
I tried the POWER-SHARP, then it wouldn't cut without the cut curving/dishing to the right. I ended up buying a standard chain.

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  #12  
Old 12/31/10, 09:40 PM
 
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It only works on the chain that it was made for while on the bar that comes with it. Break one and you are out another $70 for a new one.

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  #13  
Old 12/31/10, 10:04 PM
 
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I use one on my Poulan. Never had a problem following instructions, it always works for me everytime. I trim trees, I whack back my lilacs, fence lines - no time loss is important for me.

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  #14  
Old 01/01/11, 01:11 AM
 
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tinknal I'll try to not take offense. I cut at least 7 or 8 cords a year as well as normal farm work with it so its not like it only cuts for a day. considering its out of adjustment before it ever gets dull should say something about my sawing skills. texican I have had that same idea but haven't found a way to do it with the husky chain, we do it at work but that chain is bulk and made for that. I think its poor design that it starts out with only half the adjustment with a factory chain.

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  #15  
Old 01/01/11, 02:57 AM
 
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Don't buy it this is a money maker for them plain and simple. I drove saws for a few years and still do as often as possible a file or a conventional grinder is the way to go. I ran full comp and skip(big wood only), average bar was 32", smallest 24" biggest I ran was an 18 footer with twin 084s one on each end. With a bit of patients and practice you should be able to file a 32 loop 5min. Keep a couple loops around for spares to keep you working through the day and file at night. Just be sure you don't get to deep into the tie straps.

There is no schedule to sharpen a chain. When it's dull change it out or sharpen it. The best modification you can do to a saw is be sure you have a sharp chain. One of the worst things you can do is horse a dull chain.

rancher1913: Find someone with a chain breaker. Take out a link or two and respin it. At the but of the bar by the mounting holes should be a drawing of a chain and a number. That number is the number of drive links that should be in your chain.



Owl

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  #16  
Old 01/01/11, 07:19 AM
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ma

if i am cutting in deep snow i can get 80 minutes maybe 120 out of a chain before i feel like it really needs sharpening but usualy if i don't sharpen at 2 gass ups i am regreting it by the 3rd but usualy 40 minutes i gas , oil , sharpen a 20 inch bar with 72 link chain takes a few minutes to sharpen with a file about the same amount of time as to swap chains , but i don't have to stop to re tention if i sharpen on the saw

i even own the grinder type that is mounted to the bench , same as they use when you bring your chain in to the dealer , i find even that takes much more than nessacary to bring the edge back out on a chain.

you wouldn't see a butcher take a good knife to a power wet stone every time it was not at it's optimal sharp a butchers steel would be used to dress the edge back to cutting optimal they go thru knives fast enough throwing them away at the grinder is just a waste.

2-3 strokes on a cutter is enough to bring the edge back out

give it a try i think you will find you cut more wood even with the time spent not cutting

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  #17  
Old 01/01/11, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NELSELGNE View Post
Sears had BARRACUDA POWER-SHARP chains on their saws in 1970's.
I had a small McCULLOCH with a BARRACUDA chain that cut fine, UNTIL
I tried the POWER-SHARP, then it wouldn't cut without the cut curving/dishing to the right. I ended up buying a standard chain.

first saw i ever had (1973) had one of those from sears!! cut lots of trees with it but abandoned the power sharp option after 2 chains!! wore the chain out much faster than hand sharpening and did not sharpen the chain worth a hoot!~!
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  #18  
Old 01/01/11, 11:04 AM
 
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I think it is made to sell not to use . When we were logging full time we got our files by the dozen mixed the saw gas five gallon at a time . Went threw lots of chains and bars . Loggers don't refer to sharpening a saw blade they refer to sharpening a chain Chainsaws have a bar and chain not a blade an ax has a blade .

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  #19  
Old 01/01/11, 12:04 PM
 
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I like to take a break from cutting to sharpen my chain. Three seconds isn't a long enough break for me.

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  #20  
Old 01/01/11, 02:54 PM
 
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After seeing it on use on "this old house" it looks like an trade off. Time saver for busy people, manufacturers sale even more chains.

If my antique MAC 10 10 craps out I'll invest in one along with a new saw.

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  #21  
Old 01/01/11, 08:13 PM
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I see you can buy Powersharp replacement chain and grinding stone for around $12.

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  #22  
Old 01/02/11, 02:11 PM
 
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If I am near electricity, I sharpen with my Dremel tool and a chainsaw sharpening kit. Allows you to sharpen without removing chain from bar. I've used this for years. I can sharpen in about 4 minutes. It has a gauge to get the angles right but to be honest, these days I just use the stone alone. I buy replacement stones from Amazon. If you like this way of sharpening, you can also get battery powered Dremels for use deep in the woods. If you have sharpened enough to know the angles you need, the stones alone ought to work fine for you. The stones last for quite a while.

Here is an article that compares 4 different methods of sharpening:
http://someyapping.com/Chainsaw-Shar...omparison.aspx

Here is info on the dremel kit:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme....aspx?pid=1453

And here is where you can buy the stones by themselves. They come in several sizes:
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-454-Gri.../dp/B00004UDHN

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  #23  
Old 01/02/11, 02:32 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logbuilder View Post
If I am near electricity, I sharpen with my Dremel tool and a chainsaw sharpening kit. Allows you to sharpen without removing chain from bar. I've used this for years. I can sharpen in about 4 minutes. It has a gauge to get the angles right but to be honest, these days I just use the stone alone. I buy replacement stones from Amazon. If you like this way of sharpening, you can also get battery powered Dremels for use deep in the woods. If you have sharpened enough to know the angles you need, the stones alone ought to work fine for you. The stones last for quite a while.

Here is an article that compares 4 different methods of sharpening:
http://someyapping.com/Chainsaw-Shar...omparison.aspx

Here is info on the dremel kit:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme....aspx?pid=1453

And here is where you can buy the stones by themselves. They come in several sizes:
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-454-Gri.../dp/B00004UDHN
Great info, thank you!
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Old 01/02/11, 02:34 PM
 
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You can also get a cheap inverter to run your 115V Dremel from your pickup battery. It might be cheaper than buying a cordless Dremel.

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  #25  
Old 01/04/11, 06:29 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Cabin Fever View Post
Besides the price (~$70.00) there must be a drawback.
Never used it, but I did watch the video on the Oregon site.

Probably an excellent product for the typical home owner who has a chainsaw, and even many a homesteader type.

Drawback, if you will, is the chain itself. That's no logging chain. But it's not marketed to the pros. The chain does indeed sharpen from the top down, so conventional sharpening tools are of no use on this chain.

Considering how often homeowners and homesteaders run their chains into the dirt, and then refuse to sharpen them, this would likely be a very good chain and sharpener for those people.

Folk that love to sharpen their chains every few minutes in use, and can carry on serious conversations about chipper tooth types would have no use for this, and would likely regard it as a gimic.
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  #26  
Old 01/04/11, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by rancher1913 View Post
tinknal I'll try to not take offense. I cut at least 7 or 8 cords a year as well as normal farm work with it so its not like it only cuts for a day. considering its out of adjustment before it ever gets dull should say something about my sawing skills. texican I have had that same idea but haven't found a way to do it with the husky chain, we do it at work but that chain is bulk and made for that. I think its poor design that it starts out with only half the adjustment with a factory chain.
I had the same problem with a brand new chain I bought. I would have to stop and adjust it once at only half a tank of usage. My other chains don't seem to have that problem. Saw I use is Husqvarna, great saw.
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  #27  
Old 01/04/11, 09:07 AM
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Looks like some one is going to cut some body part off with that rig plain and simple. It's a gimick for city people who don't know nothin about sharping a chain saw chain.

The old Wright saws had blades instead of chains. I still have my dads froim the late 50's.

If you have a husky saw and the chain is streaching to the end of the adjustment just cutting 7 to 8 cords of wood it probably isn't getting enough bar oil pumped to the chain. Look in the owners manual to learn how to adjust the oil flow higher.
Many saw shops will remove links for a price also, so the chain isn't a total throw away.
You can buy the tools from Baileys to do the link removal your self too.

Al
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  #28  
Old 01/04/11, 10:15 AM
 
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Originally Posted by alleyyooper View Post
Looks like some one is going to cut some body part off with that rig plain and simple.
How do you figure that?
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  #29  
Old 01/04/11, 03:32 PM
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Or you can just use a truck to pull the tree down "Not"

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Old 01/04/11, 04:02 PM
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Or you can just use a truck to pull the tree down "Not"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxwYT...eature=related
I'm sure that guy failed geometry.
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