plumbing Q re: frost-free faucet

[Doc]

The standing frost-free faucet at the barn is leaking with a slow drip. When it's 15 degrees, it makes a long icicle. Talked with a plumber who says the whole thing will probably need to replaced, rather than just the head that screws off the pipe.

Would like to get verification of that. Don't want to spend any more money than necessary but it needs to be fixed. We depend on that faucet for all the animals' water.

Thanks.

[meanwhile]

I don't know about repairing it.....wish I knew how to fix them since I have four at my barn lying on the ground. We have three working outside hydrants and one does the same thing you describe - dripping a bit. The others suck the water back down like they are supposed to do and then they don't freeze up.

Whenever we have had an outdoor hydrant need repair, every single plumber claims they just have to be replaced. It is expensive. The last one I bought cost $149 or it may have been $169.....in any case it is expensive but I had to buy it since the plumbers would not fix it.

I have saved every one that has broke before and if anyone knows how to fix them it would be nice.

We do this to try and help - we remove the water hose from the hydrant every time we use it. In winter we think taking the hose off helps the suck of the water back down and maybe that will help.

Good luck - hope someone knows how to fix them.

[wwubben]

If it is an IOWA hydrant it can be fixed.Google iowa hydrant and you should get all the info you need.The replacement part has to be the right length.

[Caz]

Mine have an adjusting screw to help them close tightly after some wear and tear on them. There are also repair kits available for them. I think I got mine at Tractor Supply or Lowes, I cann't remember. Plumbers just replace them as by the time you pay labor for them to dig them up and rebuild them it is cheaper for them to just replace them. If you can do the overhaul yourself you can save money however. John

[cfabe]

Most good hydrants can be completely rebuilt from the top side without having to be dug up. Find a manufacturer and model number on your hydrant and look it up to find repair parts. You might also check at a good plumbing supply house.

[fishhead]

Do a search on this site for the recent thread on frost free faucets. There were some posts on how to repair them.

[Darren]

As long as you can shut off the water to the hydrant you should be able to remove the top, pull the operating rod and replace the wear parts. I install a curb stop (underground valve) in the line to each hydrant so I can shut off the water to only that hydrant.

This a picture of the cast iron box that allows access to the curb stop.

[Beeman]

Most all of them can be adjusted or rebuilt from the top. Just be careful about the ahjustment, it can't fix worn out. If you adjust too tight you can force the rubber plunger too deep and then it's all over but the digging and crying.

[Bearfootfarm]

There should be a square headed screw at the top of the rod for adjustments

[rambler]

Originally Posted by Darren

As long as you can shut off the water to the hydrant you should be able to remove the top, pull the operating rod and replace the wear parts. I install a curb stop (underground valve) in the line to each hydrant so I can shut off the water to only that hydrant.

This a picture of the cast iron box that allows access to the curb stop.

Where would one find this hardware - curb stop? I'm in Minnesota, so water pipe is 5 feet or so deep.... Am making a water supply in a Y to the barn & a new building shed, would like to shut one or the other off if things go wrong, but don't want an extra pit. Do you need a tube going up to the surface, or what kinda hardware are we looking at?

--->Paul

[Batt]

RE: the Curb Stop

Not a plumber, however, here is what I've done to the new faucets, and am in the process of retrofitting the existing ones. From your main line run a line for your faucet. Before you get to the faucet, install a shut off valve. Then above the valve place a vertical piece of 4" or 6" sewer pipe (kinda notch the bottom end so it fits over the pipe on each side of the shut off.). Cover around the sewer pipe, and cap it. Then fix a 2" or so piece of PVC or something else to reach into the sewer pipe and shut off the valve.

Like I said, I'm not a plumber, but it works for me.

[Darren]

Rambler you can do as Adron suggested or contact someone at the closest water supply district, municipality, plumber, etc. and ask what supply houses they buy parts from. Curb stops are just brass or cast iron valves that are operated with a long operating handle that extends far enough underground to reach the valve. You can make a curb stop/valve wrench. Look at the ones Lowes or Home Depot sells.



I buy the cast iron box which is a tube shown in my original post. They are adjustable for elevation. I can run over one with a tractor and not damage it. They come with the covers with the five point fastener. Snap-on sells the pentagram sockets.