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  #1  
Old 12/02/10, 09:44 AM
 
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Location: northcentral MN
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Making concrete less slippery

The guy that did the concrete in my garage about 30 years ago made it almost shiny. Any snow on the feet makes it extremely slippery.

Is there any durable finish I can put on it to rough it up a bit?

Or maybe give it a brushing with muratic acid to remove a bit of the surface layer?

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Old 12/02/10, 09:51 AM
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Location: Manitoba, Canada
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A few years ago, the Tru Value Home Hardware chain here was featuring a paint with a textured, gritty kind of finish for just this kind of application. They said it was good for patios, pool areas, that kind of thing. There must be a comparable product down there.

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  #3  
Old 12/02/10, 09:55 AM
 
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Thanks. I thought there might be a paint but I didn't know if it would stand up to traffic. The floor paint we use in the airplane hangar doesn't seem to last more than a year before it peels loose.

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Old 12/02/10, 10:11 AM
 
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Location: Galion OH
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If your concrete floor is unpainted, you could overlay a thin layer of concrete and finish with a broom to make it less slippery. If the floor is painted, you may need to rent a concrete grinder to refinish the surface.

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  #5  
Old 12/02/10, 10:40 AM
 
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25% Acid 75% water mop it on then scrub it with a stiff bristle deck brush. Keep working it until it stops foaming. Then pressure wash it out. Then scrub it again with clean water and pressure wash it again. Allow it to dry , then paint it with a floor paint.

Tip #1 : Dont add the aggrigate to the paint. Paint a area of the floor then broadcast spread the aggrigate and repeat until entire floor is done.

Tip #2 : If you don't buy a paint that resist "HOT TIRE PICKUP" you will be repainting the areas were your tires set about every year.

I've done thousands of floors and if you don't acid wash them first the paint WILL NOT STICK to the smooth concrete.

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  #6  
Old 12/02/10, 10:44 AM
Katie
 
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Maybe it would be easier to put down those commercial big rubber mats used in resturaunt kitchen's, etc. in the main area's walked on. They also make rubber mats for garage floors too, not sure how well they'd hold up if you layed them where you drove on them all the time.

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  #7  
Old 12/02/10, 11:18 AM
 
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Water doesn't drain off our back patio, therefore, it can get slimy and very slippery when wet. I've slipped down a couple of times and have learned to be very cautious when wet. Pressure washing it often is the best thing I've found to help.

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  #8  
Old 12/02/10, 11:31 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy View Post
25% Acid 75% water mop it on then scrub it with a stiff bristle deck brush. Keep working it until it stops foaming. Then pressure wash it out. Then scrub it again with clean water and pressure wash it again. Allow it to dry , then paint it with a floor paint.

Tip #1 : Dont add the aggrigate to the paint. Paint a area of the floor then broadcast spread the aggrigate and repeat until entire floor is done.

Tip #2 : If you don't buy a paint that resist "HOT TIRE PICKUP" you will be repainting the areas were your tires set about every year.

I've done thousands of floors and if you don't acid wash them first the paint WILL NOT STICK to the smooth concrete.
Would the acid wash pit it enough to give it texture?
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  #9  
Old 12/02/10, 12:10 PM
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Tip #3- Make sure there is nothing that will rust in there while you are acid etching it! I knew a guy that did that in his machine shop. The next day, all his precision equipment was orange with rust from the fumes.

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Old 12/02/10, 12:53 PM
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I went to the local farm store. They sell stall mats by the foot. I bought enough to do down the driver's side of the garage. Can safely get out of the car and into the house now.

Kathie

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  #11  
Old 12/02/10, 01:12 PM
 
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Originally Posted by MushCreek View Post
Tip #3- Make sure there is nothing that will rust in there while you are acid etching it! I knew a guy that did that in his machine shop. The next day, all his precision equipment was orange with rust from the fumes.
I would hate to see what his lungs looked like if he didn't use a respirator.
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Old 12/02/10, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fishhead View Post
Would the acid wash pit it enough to give it texture?
Mostly it is going to get the accumulation of oil and gas and general gunk plus whatever is left of the sealer off rather than etch the concrete. Paint will not stick to all that. We've used the epoxy paint on several floors (basement and garage) over the years - if well prepped it lasts well.
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  #13  
Old 12/02/10, 02:13 PM
 
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+1 to a quality concrete paint and adding some fine sand to the wet product on the floor.

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  #14  
Old 12/02/10, 02:30 PM
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In that case..if it is a new floor do we need to etch it first?

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  #15  
Old 12/02/10, 02:54 PM
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Some of the Behr paint additive should fix you right up if you paint it.

http://goo.gl/listg

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  #16  
Old 12/02/10, 03:30 PM
 
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Originally Posted by littlebitfarm View Post
I went to the local farm store. They sell stall mats by the foot. I bought enough to do down the driver's side of the garage. Can safely get out of the car and into the house now.

Kathie
Sears sells squares of rubber garage floor mats that interlock. I'd think they would make a nice walk way, no need to put them under the car.
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  #17  
Old 12/03/10, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Kmac15 View Post
In that case..if it is a new floor do we need to etch it first?
I would. Any concrete man worth his salt will put a sealer on the new floor unless you specifiy not to. Add to that there is going to be some traffic on the floor when they finish and stripping to track on it. Frankly, I am not sure how long the manufacturers of the floor coverings suggest letting the crete cure before applying but assume it is going to be atleast a couple days. It does not take much oil to keep the paint from sticking - consider it cheap insurance.
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  #18  
Old 12/03/10, 08:52 PM
 
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Kmac15 , You need to allow the "New Concrete" cure for a minimum of 90 days before doing anything to it. It has alkali in new concrete that needs to leach out (Efforvessant , Sp?) or you are waisting your time. 120 days would be better.

Fishhead , It will remove alot of the oil , grease , grim , sealant. It will also remove the top layer of portland cement that is in the concrete and expose the sand and tops of rocks , if done in a strong enough solution or left on to long.

If you have metal touching the floor or near the floor yes it will rust if not treated. As the Acid is very caustic. A way to take care of this is after the etch and before you pressure wash it , spray it down with a baking soda and water mixture from a garden sprayer. The Baking Soda will nutralize the acid.

Yes the Epoxy coating is the best way to go on the floor. However be fair warned Epoxy is not cheap in price by any means. I've seen it go as high as over $100/gal. for the better material. Rust Oleum makes a product called "Epoxy Shield" that comes in a kit. It's made for Garage floors , The last time I bought it I paid about $120 for the kit. Kit contains 2 gals. of Epoxy and floor chips to sprinkle over coating while wet. Kit is available at Lowe's. I did a 2 car garage floor and it took 2 kits.

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  #19  
Old 12/03/10, 09:38 PM
 
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I highly recommend good epoxy (100% solids) if go that directions--you get what you pay for--and DO not skimp on prep work. You can ad several kinds of slip resistant material to the last coat.

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  #20  
Old 12/03/10, 10:25 PM
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Huge amounts of misinformation on this thread.

If you are overall happy with the concrete then just seal it with any decent sealant mixed with sand. Sandblasting (silica) sand is easily available at any decent builders supply and works great. Mix some into the sealant and roll it onto the floor with a paint roller. The more sand you add, the greater the grip. You can make the floor look like a new sheet of sandpaper if that what you really want.

Save the acid for cleaning your still. Save the epoxy for your factory floor. If you don't own a factory, save the epoxy forever.

Pete

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