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  #1  
Old 07/14/10, 07:53 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 149
shop building insulation question

30x40x12 with a 10 tall 12 wide insulated door south side and regular walk in door also. one 3.0 window

double bubble wrap under tin, have enough 1 1/2 inch sytrofoam in 4x20 sheets to do entire inside.

This is a pole barn construction.

planning on putting wafer board over the foam board on walls, maybe white tin on the bottom of the trusses after I put up the foam board. trusses on 4 ft centers.


sw missouri.

is that enough insulation > ? or should I blow in like 6-8 inches in the ceiling?
read somewhere 80 % of heat loss is in ceiling.
Should I fill the walls too?

Want to cool it in the summer and heat it in the winter so I can work in it ANY day of the year easy. I have waiting 15 years for this and want to do it right.

Anyone have something like this and how is it insulated.???

THanks am excited to have a "real shop" no more crawling in the snow or cold fingers!

or HOT HOT HOT days...........hurrah!
Scott
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  #2  
Old 07/14/10, 08:03 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: East-Central Ontario
Posts: 3,862
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Not sure about Missouri. It wouldn't be nearly enough here. I'm thinking there'll never be a cheaper time to put the insulation in than before you get the walls and ceiling closed so why not overdo it?

Could always check here

http://www.garagejournal.com/

or here

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/index.php?
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  #3  
Old 07/14/10, 08:24 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,495
Hi,
You can use this simple calculator to get a pretty good idea what the heat loss and fuel use for heating would be:

http://www.builditsolar.com/Referenc...s/HeatLoss.htm

For purposes of entering R values in the calculator, 1.5 inch styrofoam is good for about R6.

Whether the heat goes out the ceiling or walls or other places just depends on the insulation levels for each surface. A sqft of R20 ceiling loses the same amount of heat as a sqft of R20 wall. Only exception to this is if you get higher temps up by the ceiling because the air is not well mixed, but this is a small effect.

If your south wall gets sun during the day, you can make it into a solar heater for not much money. I use this one on my south wall shop wall:
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects...rn_project.htm


The insulation levels sound on the light side to me even for your relatively mild winters, but the calculator will tell you.

If it were me, I'd certainly go for the blown in ceiling insulation. I'd use cellulose.

Gary
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  #4  
Old 07/15/10, 03:32 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: EastTN: Former State of Franklin
Posts: 4,482
35x75' shop here, ceiling goes from 8' to 14' inside, following the bottom of the rafters ( gambrel...dutch barn...style roof ).

12x10 roll up door in one end. 3 windows ( dual pane, vinyl frame ) on one side. Other side is built about 2/3 of wall height into side of bank. ( Cinder block with short 2x6 wall on top )

Studs and rafters on 2' centers, all insulated with R-19 batt. Flat part of ceiling ( 24' wide ) insulated with blown in fiberglass to R-19.

Inside temps never below upper 40's in winter. Wood stove brings it up to mid 60's easy ( which is all I want for working temp ) Summer stay 'reasonably' cool, keep a floor pedestal type fan running.

I would recommend you do more insulation.
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  #5  
Old 07/15/10, 08:19 AM
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New York & Vermont
Posts: 228
Scotty,

I design pole barns. They are a little difficult to insulate to proper values, but well worth the trouble in the long run.

You might consider tacking 2x3 girts on the inside of your posts. Space them at 24" on center and then add batt insulation for the walls. Follow Solar Gary's guide. The pay back in energy saved will be in just a couple of years and money in the bank every year after that.

Don
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  #6  
Old 07/15/10, 08:20 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
Posts: 6,977
If you put a ceiling in will the attic have vetilation? Not just a place for hot air to escape but a way for cooler air to enter?
Remember that warm metal inside cold metal outside will make condensation on the inside.
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  #7  
Old 07/15/10, 11:25 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
you said it had bubblewrap under the metal. Just a question not an answer, how much good do you think foil bubblewrap does? Also if you decide to blow in fiberglass, Home Depot online used to sell the mesh to staple to rafter, etc to blow cellulose behind.
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  #8  
Old 07/15/10, 04:55 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: EastTN: Former State of Franklin
Posts: 4,482
Quote:
Originally Posted by crobar View Post
you said it had bubblewrap under the metal. Just a question not an answer, how much good do you think foil bubblewrap does? Also if you decide to blow in fiberglass, Home Depot online used to sell the mesh to staple to rafter, etc to blow cellulose behind.
Bubble wrap does just enough good to keep the inside of the metal from condensing warmer, moister air on cold metal....that's it.
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  #9  
Old 07/15/10, 05:44 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 149
been to lowes and think the fiberglass that I can blow in is the way to go for the ceiling and maybe even the walls........
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  #10  
Old 07/15/10, 05:53 PM
black thumb
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Mid TN
Posts: 2,690
scott congrads on your shop building. Does seem the longfer you wait for something the more you appreciate it. happy tinkering
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  #11  
Old 07/16/10, 01:37 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 149
well I lucked out......bought 11 rolls 4ft wide, 80-100- ft long of r13 that where taken off a roof of a business and rolled up. Guy had a whole bunch but was selling it pretty quick.

30 bucks a roll........now with the bubble wrap, and the 1.5 inch foam board I should be ok.
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