Set up an older mobile home?

[Wayne02]

Lets say you had an older double wide that was going to be moved from one location to another on the same piece of private property (no public road transportation). I realize there are likely codes, regulations, requirements etc that I of course will look into.

In the meantime I was wondering if anybody has had experience with setting up an older double-wide? I have only seen one being set up once, many years ago. I seem to recall something like two strips of concrete per side, each strip the length of the mobile home. These concrete strips were maybe 18" wide or so with the forms left on them. These strips were aligned under the two frame rails of the mobile home half to support the frame. Then outward supports utilized some sort of peer block or sonotube pad to support the outer part of the mobile home halves.

Is this anywhere close? What have you done or seen done?

Thanks

[Sawmill Jim]

Yep or you can put piers on level concrete pads you would set up them the same as some use to build a brick house .

Buddy of mine moved a double wide using a house mover and never took it apart .

[Harry Chickpea]

Current method is to have the footer be 18" wide concrete strips, 8' apart, running crosswise the length of the home. The piers are constructed on those, with standard spacing and extra piers under the doors.

The concept is to minimize settling issues, which is a major reason that older installations were unsatisfactory. Since older homes have less steel and smaller joists, extra piers are a good thing.

If you are making a new pad, do yourself a BIG favor and install drain tile or at least 2" PVC under it to clear out ground, rain, and surface water. Have the construction plastic installed over the ground before the piers are in place and let them rest on it to minimize wicking.

[the mama]

Don't do this. I tried and ended up paying more. You will not be able to get electric without proper permits. Also in Fla it takes someone with a license to set up a mobile home.

[Wayne02]

Originally Posted by Harry Chickpea

Current method is to have the footer be 18" wide concrete strips, 8' apart, running crosswise the length of the home. The piers are constructed on those, with standard spacing and extra piers under the doors.

The concept is to minimize settling issues, which is a major reason that older installations were unsatisfactory. Since older homes have less steel and smaller joists, extra piers are a good thing.

If you are making a new pad, do yourself a BIG favor and install drain tile or at least 2" PVC under it to clear out ground, rain, and surface water. Have the construction plastic installed over the ground before the piers are in place and let them rest on it to minimize wicking.

Do these 18" strips extend all the way across to each side of the mobile home section? If it is a double wide do they pour one length that spans the wide of both sections?

How does the tractor position the MH section over these crosswise running strips?

Thanks

[Harry Chickpea]

Yes, they go all the way across. The positioning isn't as difficult as it seems.

The sequence is:

The site is leveled, laid out and squared.

Stakes are placed WELL OUTSIDE of the footprint, showing the proper places to dig the trenches. That gives equipment room to move.

Power, sewer, water, drainage, and any other the deeper trenches are dug and the utilities stubbed out and those trenches filled using a backhoe, and packed.

String is stretched showing where the first footer trench is to be dug, and the area under it sprayed with spray marker paint, like is used in parking lots.

The backhoe digs that trench about a foot deep, then the process repeats. By default, the width of the bucket is pretty much the width of the trench.

The ends of the trenches and perimeter are dug to form the footing for any skirting or cement block.

If rebar or screen reinforcement is to be used, it is positioned.

Stakes (of rebar) are driven at the ends of each trench and a string with a line level stretched to show where the surface of the concrete should be. The string can be a couple inches above that, it just needs to be giving a reference level all over the area.

The trenches are finish prepped and a concrete truck comes in fills to the designated level. The thickness is about 8" to 10" and for a good job fiber is included in the mix.

The whole thing is screed during the filling and allowed to cure for a couple days.

There are still mounds of dirt on the sides of the trenches. Generally those are left, to avoid any damage to the footer. I suppose they could be shaved down, but they aren't.

When the tractor backs the trailer into position, there are a number of wheels - 14? 18? on the trailer section and some wheels just free float over the trenches while the others rest on the ridges. It isn't at all like driving a car over ridges. It doesn't get stuck at all.

Final join is usually done with the aid of a transverse jack that lifts one section and moves it tight to the other. When the jack is in place, the key pillars are placed and blocked. A water level is used inside or a transit outside to make sure the unit is level as the jack is lowered and removed.

Other pillars are filled in, utilities are connected, cross connections of power plumbing and air handlers are made, and tie down anchors and straps installed. The whole thing is then inspected.

Skirting or concrete block in placed and decks and/or stairs put in position.

A lot of the problems that are blamed on shoddy construction are really problems with poor site prep and sinking pillars. In cheap jobs, pillars are just stuck on a pan on the soil, and they sink as the soil becomes saturated with moisture. If those pillars had formed a basement, the homeowner would see giant cracks in basement walls. With such poor foundation work, doors don't open and shut properly, joints pull and pop, and floors get bouncy.

[Wayne02]

Originally Posted by Harry Chickpea

The backhoe digs that trench about a foot deep, then the process repeats. By default, the width of the bucket is pretty much the width of the trench...

When the tractor backs the trailer into position, there are a number of wheels - 14? 18? on the trailer section and some wheels just free float over the trenches while the others rest on the ridges. It isn't at all like driving a car over ridges. It doesn't get stuck at all.

Ok thanks. Sounds like I might be able do some of the work myself. I have a 2 foot digging bucket and a 3 foot clean-out bucket for my excavator so I suspect the 2 foot would be the one to use for the trenches.

Are forms used at all for the concrete strips or is the idea that the strips are flush with the surrounding grade?

You mentioned drain tile and this is something I will most certainly do as I've seen the result of water under homes. Does this drain tile typically get run parallel to, and between the concrete strips? Do people typically connect this drain tile together and run it out from under the trailer, possibly tying it in with the roof drains, or is it like a french drain which dissipates the water into the soil below?

I take it the 'pillars' are set on top of the concrete strips and engage the frame of the trailer and the outboard frame extensions. I'm assuming there are two main frame rails that run the length of the trailer, and then stringers run out from these to the edge of the trailer body? How do these pillars engage the trailer frame? Are they adjustable in height?

You mentioned the tractor 'backing in the trailer'. My spot is pretty tight and I was hoping the tractor could tow the trailer straight in, over the strips I guess? I'm under the impression that the tongue can be put on either end of the trailer.

Edited to add: The timing on this project is not ideal for a number of reasons. I don't anticipate being able to connect to utilities for a couple of years after the trailer is set in place and the ultimate location of said utilities is not firmed up yet. I do know the general area they will be located and will know where they exit from the trailer so I can stub them out and cap them for now.

[Wayne02]

Originally Posted by the mama

Don't do this. I tried and ended up paying more. You will not be able to get electric without proper permits. Also in Fla it takes someone with a license to set up a mobile home.

Yes, that's a good point. I'm sure there are requirements here in the state as well as possibly the county. I'll start to track those down next week.

[Harry Chickpea]

No forms are used. The earth forms the sides of the "form."

Drain tile has to be done on a site-by-site basis. As long as you don't run it directly under where a pillar will be, and you run it below the footer trench level, you should be fine.


Pillars are stacked 8" x8" x 16" concrete block. Two side by side one direction, two more on top oriented in the other direction, and so on until it is close to the frame. The tops are capped with seasoned hard oak, and then two opposing slim shims or wedges. The oak and wedges are the adjustment.

Tongue usually goes on one end and the setup for all the wheels is on the other end. Backing is easier, you would have to ask the person doing the job what the limitations of his equipment is.

Even though timing isn't great, do the setting properly and get your rodent-proofing done now. Rats will ruin a place. It is also a good idea to have bait traps outside and away from the unit.

[GoldenCityMuse]

Pack Rats & deer mice are VERY destructive to all buildings and cars.