Finishing basement

fellini123 · #1 05/03/10, 09:19 PM

Hello everyone. DH and I are wanting to finish off our basement. It is your typical basement with walk out doors. It isnt wet, ceiling is relatively high, lots of pipes and AC ducts, concret block walks, and we have laminate flooring to put down.
We just had the Owens Corring people out today to give us an estimate on their basement finishing systems.

It was impressive, and so was the price!!
So any ideas of what is the best way to finish off a basement?? the Owens guy said that you want to let the walls breath and not try and shut off any moisture in the walls. He also said that drywall will just mildew.
He also said that using wood would also just cause mildew.
So any ideas???? thanks
Alice in Virginia

**Ross** · #2 05/03/10, 09:41 PM

Building codes are so different as you move north and south take any advice with a grain of salt. Here I would frame with wood (dry basement) insulate and add a vapour barrier to limit thayt breathing! Otherwise it will suck up moisture from the living space. Here is where the Ontario code contradicts its self a bit, because I would also have to control the moisture with ventilation! Alrighty then. My understanding is Virginia is very very moist so perhaps the approach is different since you can't ventilate it out and its as bad coming in from the walls as from the living space. Don't build an Ontario basement in Virginia is my advice!!

Hopefully you will get some local to you experiences.

pheasantplucker · #3 05/04/10, 10:11 AM

The Owens guy is trying to sell you something. I finished off the basement at my home using green board. It's drywall that will withstand the moisture of places like bathrooms and basements. I have a cabin with a basement I'm going to be finishing (when I get the money). It's iceblock...meaning styrofoam forms that were filled with rebar and poured walls. I've already framed in using 2x4's all around the perimeter. I ran outlets and wall switches and connected them to the breaker, so I have electricity already up and running. Next, I just have to hang the sheetrock, tape, and finish...then paint. Hanging drywall IMO is a pain. I don't like that handling it makes my hands dry out and crack and bleed, but if you get a buddy or two to give you a hand, and provide them with a cookout or something, it's definately a doable thing for most folks who are somewhat handy. good luck. I wouldn't pay a company to come in and do something I could do for myself, but that's just me.

Jonaspear · #4 05/04/10, 08:21 PM

Do an internet search on the Owens Corning Basement System - their sales approach will blow your mind. I have finished several basements, do you have a floating slab floor? That's where there is a 2 inch or so channel between the wall and the slab. I would move 2x4 framing out that 2 inches whether you do or don't. Leave that small airspace and don't let the framing or insulation touch the wall. Use pressure treated wood for the sole plate (touches the slab).

Green board is a good drywall option, even better is Georgia Pacific Densarmor Plus which is paperless. You'll pay a bit more but worth it. You may need to find a commercial drywall supply company, the big box stores don't carry it.

fellini123 · #5 05/04/10, 09:31 PM

Thanks for all the ideas. No we do not have a floating floor, it is just a slab with concrete walls. We were planning on using the green boards, which we used when we closed in our car port. I think wer had pretty well decided that the Owens guys wanted way too much $$ for what we were getting.
What did you guys use for the ceiling?? I hate those drop ceilings but I dont see anyway around it. Did you use the 2 X 2 squares or the longer ones???

Alice in Virginia

chickenslayer · #6 05/04/10, 09:56 PM

I hate drop ceilings too, but if you ever need to get to the ductwork or plumbing you will be glad you have one. You could save yourself some money using 2x3's instead of 2x4's to frame the walls, there's not going to be any load on the walls.

cfabe · #7 05/04/10, 10:02 PM

If you have pretty clear floor joists and want to get maximum ceiling height, there is a plastic grid system called CeilingMax that looks like a drop tile ceiling from below but actually holds the tiles right up to the joists, while still allowing removal for access to pipes etc. I've used this system in one basement and it works reasonably well. The grids are a little flimsy if you are using super heavy acoustic tiles like I did for a home theater, but they got the job done.

pheasantplucker · #8 05/05/10, 05:43 AM

When I finish my cabin basement, I'm going to paint the ceiling and rafters above me flat black. Then I'm going to run lattace screwed to the bottom of each joist. Don't yet know what colour the lattce will be. I've seen it done, and it's sharp, and still gives access to electrical, plumbing stuff.

Jonaspear · #9 05/05/10, 06:13 AM

I typically use 2 x 2 ceiling tiles - I have done both the regular armstrong grid and Ceiling Max. Ceiling Max is pricey and you must buy it in kits, not by the piece like you can do with the armstrong grid. It will give you a minimum of 3 or so extra inches of height, so if that is important it could be worth it. If you are patient you can install a normal grid system and only lose 3.5 - 4 inches. The regular grid makes recessed lighting a snap, the lights are designed to rest on the grid.

There are all kinds of new types of ceiling tiles, tin, copper etc., not just the old white industrial kind.

fellini123 · #10 05/05/10, 10:26 AM

We have a high ceiling so height is not really an issue. Just the built-in difficulity in putting a ceiling. I hate working over my head!!! LOL

thanks for all the info, will post pictures when we get done. Dont hold your breath!!! LOL
Alice in virginia