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  #1  
Old 05/03/10, 04:18 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Any Cub Farmall Carb machanics in here

I took the carb apart. Theres a tab I didnt see that is on the float, on the back of the tang by the hinge pin. Does it point up or down. If I point it down, then the tab scrapes against the back of the bowl and the 2 pieces wont seat. Also, the float just flops down and the needle valve falls out.. If I face it up, then the fit is hard to get the pin to align with all the holes, and the tang wont let the needle valve move at all
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  #2  
Old 05/03/10, 04:50 PM
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Post this same reply on Farmallcub.com and you will get several replys.
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  #3  
Old 05/03/10, 05:29 PM
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http://oeltd.net/Doc/toys2/50cub-carb-02.jpg

Appears to me that the tab is up and it states it is used to control the float drop. Right hand drawing, toward the top.
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  #4  
Old 05/03/10, 05:45 PM
 
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Does this help
http://reocities.com/thetropics/para...93/A4carbA.GIF
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  #5  
Old 05/03/10, 08:32 PM
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If I understand your question correctly, the tab faces up.

Sending a PM in a minute.
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  #6  
Old 05/03/10, 08:38 PM
 
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Lord how I hate to tell you this. But God hates a coward. I had the needle in backwards Sorry to had bothered ya all
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  #7  
Old 05/03/10, 10:37 PM
 
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FarmBoyBill
Would like an easy way to know the fuel level in the bowl on the carb?

Remove the plug in the bottom of the bowl and insert a barbed fitting. Get a clear piece of tubing that will fit the barb. Have the tubing long enough that when affixed to the barbed fitting you can bow the tubing upward to where you can duct tape the tubing to the hood. Open the fuel valve from the tank to the carb. The level of gas in the tubing will be the same as the height of the fuel in the carb bowl. Now you can accurately set the float.
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  #8  
Old 05/04/10, 01:43 PM
 
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I see whatcher saying AMT. But how far up is the gas supposed to rise in the bowl. Ive got continous gas comeing out of the fuel bowl on the carb. It starts and runs 5 secs and dies. Wait a min and it does the same.
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  #9  
Old 05/05/10, 10:04 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Levittown, Bucks, Pennsylvania
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The float tang needs to be set so it closes the needle b/4 flooding the carb...usually the float should be paralell to the top of the bowl when the needle is closed. so as the fuel is used the dropping float allows more fuel to enter the bowl...rinse and repeat...
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  #10  
Old 05/05/10, 07:15 PM
 
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is the float empty?

i have had lots of floats that got holes in them,,soldered lots of them........
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  #11  
Old 05/05/10, 07:38 PM
 
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FarmBoyBill

With the fuel shutoff valve opened does gas continuously run out of the carb? If not IMO you have one of two problems. Either the float setting is incorrect holding the fuel nearly closed off or the fuel from the fuel tank is not getting to the carb because the line is clogged. With the fuel line disconnected from the carb the line should run a full stream about 1/2 the diameter of a #2 pencil. Check the gas to the carb first.
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Last edited by agmantoo; 05/05/10 at 07:43 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05/06/10, 02:01 PM
 
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Floats empty. with the gas line opened, (and I blew through it to make sure it had nothing hindering the flow, as to a partial flow), And the plug at the bottom of the bowl off, Gas continually runs out. I bent the tang way back in order to get, or try to get enough gas going through it to cause it to die with black smoke comeing through the muffler, Couldnt do it. I used a bottle of kem tool spray on it, thinking it was cleaned out, Now im going to try useing air. Idle adjustment screw set at 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 turns makeing no diff either way. Im somewhat getting an education

WB. I dont see how that tang regulates stopping flow of float. Tang is bent up. If tang is not bent up far enough then you have flow until gas in bowl raises the float to shut off the flow. I think the tang regulates the amount of flow into bowl
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  #13  
Old 05/06/10, 02:23 PM
 
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It is now time to open the carb and verify the jets and passages are fully open. Locate a short length of multi strand electrical and peel the insulation off and use one of the wire strand to pass through each orifice and passage. The gasket between the carb base and the intake is not leaking air in is it?
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Last edited by agmantoo; 05/06/10 at 02:27 PM.
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  #14  
Old 05/06/10, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmBoyBill View Post
....WB. I dont see how that tang regulates stopping flow of float. Tang is bent up. If tang is not bent up far enough then you have flow until gas in bowl raises the float to shut off the flow. I think the tang regulates the amount of flow into bowl
All the tang does is keep the needle from falling out if the float drops way low. Set it so the float drops just short of that happening and when you push up on the float the needle doesn't hang up.

Quote:
Floats empty. with the gas line opened
No fuel with the valve open and drain plug removed from carb.

Maybe you messed up the needle or seat when you put it togethor with the needle upside-down?

Fuel line plugged?

Tank vacuum locking?

Only other thing I can think of would be is the float set to low and not letting fuel in. Sometimes you can blow though but since it's gravity feed it doesn't have the pressure to pass through.
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  #15  
Old 05/06/10, 08:59 PM
 
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WW u read my post wrong. Ive always got gas out the bottom of the bowl.
OK, I got it to running, (somewhat). It ran fine If I HAD THE CHOKE 1/3 OPEN. I finally got it to run with the choke closed barely. I adjusted the needle in and out, even took it completly out, no difference. With the choke 1/3 open or not, it never smoked. I got the float so tight I could get air through it by closeing my eyes and thinking about it as I blowed through it. I sprayed starting fluid around the gaskets but got no difference in running, so I know the gaskets are tight.

IF
I got the float set too tight, would that have anything to do with how its running? Why theres no reaction to adjusting the needle?
BUT, If the floats set too tight and barely letting gas through, THEN HOW is it it runs fine with the choke 1/3 open
Im getting a carb kit and a DVD on the Cub Carb, plus other tuneup/brake/clutch things Tues.
I finally stripped out the threads in the bottom of the carb so that the inside, right hand stud wouldnt hold. I took a nut, ground one side down, and it worked fine, putting the nut on the bottom next to the needle adjustment.
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  #16  
Old 05/06/10, 09:29 PM
 
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Your air to fuel ratio is incorrect. You need ~ 14.7 to 1 . With the choke on while running, the choke is altering the ratio giving an increase in fuel. Either you have to much air or insufficient gas.
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Last edited by agmantoo; 05/06/10 at 09:32 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05/07/10, 04:38 AM
 
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Well, as stated above, I went from one extreme to the other in setting the float. Ive got it nearly starved for gasa now, so Ill reset it to more like what I think it should be and we ll see what happens. Thanks for the help amt and alla the rest.
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  #18  
Old 05/07/10, 08:46 AM
 
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FarmBoyBill
If the needle/seat in the carb have been tweaked hard it will make a depression in the needle an distort the tapered shaft to where the adjustment becomes extremely sensitive if even possible. When the needle is in good condition the shaft will be a slight uniform taper but when damaged it will have a depressed ring/groove that prevents fine tuning.
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  #19  
Old 05/07/10, 10:49 AM
 
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Well, get me corrected in my thinking here. The choke allows less air into the mixture. Am I right.? The idle adjustment screw, im guessing adjusts gas. Am I right again?

As I said, I sprayed starter fluid around the man/carb gasket, and around the 2 part carb gasket. Didnt hear any difference, which makes me think I got it tight.

So, With the choke pushed in, its getting too much air, which causes it to slobber when running. It dosent have an air adjustment screw, so how do I adjust the air in it? Why dosent the idleing adjustment screw not make a difference, even if I take it completly out. I blew out the carb with 120psi air.

(So , with the choke pushed in, its getting too much air.) Does that mean, its getting too much air for the amount of gas its getting, and I need to open up the float a bit??

Im not touching anything till I hear from ya. Thanks again.
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  #20  
Old 05/07/10, 11:13 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmBoyBill View Post
Well, get me corrected in my thinking here. The choke allows less air into the mixture. Am I right.? The idle adjustment screw, im guessing adjusts gas. Am I right again?

As I said, I sprayed starter fluid around the man/carb gasket, and around the 2 part carb gasket. Didnt hear any difference, which makes me think I got it tight.

So, With the choke pushed in, its getting too much air, which causes it to slobber when running. It dosent have an air adjustment screw, so how do I adjust the air in it? Why dosent the idleing adjustment screw not make a difference, even if I take it completly out. I blew out the carb with 120psi air.

(So , with the choke pushed in, its getting too much air.) Does that mean, its getting too much air for the amount of gas its getting, and I need to open up the float a bit??

Im not touching anything till I hear from ya. Thanks again.
I struggle with setting carbs as well, so take my comments as good fun, not terribly helpful..... I can't spell either.

With the choke on, it creates a much higher vacum and more gas gets into the airflow. The air moves faster past the venturi creating more vacum. It doesn't really mean less air - it means a richer mix.

So if your tractor is running with a partial choke, but dies out with choke off, it means you need to turn the main fuel screw out a bit, to create a richer fuel mix.

The idle screw is kinda minor, and doesn't affect much unless you are at very low idle.

The float level wouldn't seem to be problem as much as the main jet setting?

--->Paul
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