50 amp extension cord ?

gwithrow · #1 04/16/10, 07:02 AM

we are putting an RV park model 'cabin' down in the woods to use as overflow sleeping quarters for extended family, this will not be used for long periods of time, I don't think, just weekends now and then.....we would like to be able to use the lights and fans and perhaps the tiny electric hot water heater...how far can we run extension cords? say the 50 Amp RV cords? we need about 300 feet I think...and what could we plug it into? would we need a 'box' at the house? does anyone else have any suggestions? we would also like to use the toilet down there, but can't afford to put in a new septic and our house septic is located up hill from there..right now it will be used without hookups, but it would be fabulous to be able to have the option of using in cold weather as well, ie: the electric heater.....thanks..

tyusclan · #2 04/16/10, 07:19 AM

The 50 amp size is probably more than enough for the little that you will be running, but I would not use extension cords going that far. Every time you plug two together you have a potential spot for a loose connection, which can eventually burn up the cord. I'd run a continuous run with the wire buried in pvc conduit. You'll need three #6 wires, two hots and a neutral, and a #10 ground wire, green if possible. It'll be a little more expensive at first, but it may save you some grief later.

There is a self-contained pressure pump and tank that you can get at a plumbing supply house that runs around $500-$700. You can bury that, run the waste line into that, and pipe it up and drop it in your septic tank.

Macybaby · #3 04/16/10, 08:48 AM

I'd also think your best bet is to run an underground line with an outlet near where you need to use it. That way there is never any danger of someone hitting it with a mower or something like that.

We have a long bright orange extension cord we us to for a sump in a pot in the yard, and even though we KNOW it is there and quite visable, it has been chopped more than once. DH got it one year with the big brush hog and once with the zero turn rider. He like to try to get close, and both times got just a wee bit too close and it was all over before he could do anythign about it.

With going underground, you can just flip the breaker at the source when you don't need power down there. With power, you may find you use the area way more than you originally expected to.

You should price out the different options, you may be shocked at how much 300' feet of cord to handle 50 amps would cost. BTW- I expect you would have to make it anyway - buy heavy wire and put ends on it. You also have to consider the power drop for that long of a run. We went from our house to the barn (400') and for temporary use had 4 - 100' extension cords, and the power loss was substanial. We had to consider that when we installed the undergound lines, and used a 100 amp breaker at the house so we'd have adequate power at the barn.

Cathy

gwithrow · #4 04/16/10, 10:17 AM

overall I would prefer to do the underground with a plug at the source...but cost is a big factor...then there is the idea of a generator...but I hate the noise..sort of defeats the little cabin in the woods notion...I know the wire has to be buried, we have cows and donkeys in the field...to say nothing of bush hog, and mower...or pigs...I have a call in to an electrician friend...he might have a good idea or two....just thought I would plumb the bottomless ideas here..thanks for all thoughts and ideas

foxtrapper · #5 04/16/10, 10:26 AM

I'd be inclined to make my own 300' extension cord out of some Romex cable and two plug ends.

Jim-mi · #6 04/16/10, 10:56 AM

Be aware that even those "tiny" water heaters more than likely have a 1500 watt heater element.
So you could over load an "extension" cord real quick.

Over all less bucks is to put that #6 mentioned in underground conduit.

Harry Chickpea · #7 04/16/10, 11:35 AM

If you drop the heating requirements, you need WAY less amperage. Propane is an obvious solution.

bbbuddy · #8 04/16/10, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwithrow

we are putting an RV park model 'cabin' down in the woods to use as overflow sleeping quarters for extended family, this will not be used for long periods of time, I don't think, just weekends now and then.....we would like to be able to use the lights and fans and perhaps the tiny electric hot water heater...how far can we run extension cords? say the 50 Amp RV cords? we need about 300 feet I think...and what could we plug it into? would we need a 'box' at the house? does anyone else have any suggestions? we would also like to use the toilet down there, but can't afford to put in a new septic and our house septic is located up hill from there..right now it will be used without hookups, but it would be fabulous to be able to have the option of using in cold weather as well, ie: the electric heater.....thanks..

300 feet is a LONG way to go without a big voltage drop. A 3% voltage drop would mean you need to go to #4 wire for 15 amps..
Here is a wire size/run chart http://www.solarseller.com/dc_wire_loss_chart___.htm

scroll down to the 120volt chart.

My husband is an elecric pro at a big box store, he has to show a chart to people all the time because they insist on trying to use too small wire to save money. The charts convince them...

Remember that once power is there, people WILL use it for MORE than just lights.

For hot water, I'd go with a small propane "camping" type supply, or solar hot water.

tamsam · #9 04/16/10, 09:07 PM

Ask the guys at the store about what size wire to use and I would install a breaker box for it at the house. Also use propane for everything you can. No knowing where in NC you are but if you have electric heat in the house the propane would be nice to get warm if needed. We use propane for heat when we aren't at home and we only used 120 lbs this winter. It was one of the coldest people remember here. The vent less wall heaters can be put where you want them and can run on 20 lb grill tanks or any other size you can get there. We use a pair of hand trucks to move our 100 ib tank with. Good luck. Sam

gwithrow · #10 04/16/10, 09:27 PM

a neighbor electrician is coming by in the AM to see what he sees....we use ventless gas logs in our house...for back up and really cold days...as well as a small wall ventless unit in a bathroom...works great and I think would be the solution for heat and probably hot water...maybe a very small on demand unit....so that leaves fans and lights...and a microwave...a small frig would be nice, but since it will be used so little, probably a cooler will work just fine...we just want to not go overboard and invest too heavily in this...the easiest will be if we can do the box at the house and an underground line to the cabin..for now it will be just a camping unit...

texican · #11 04/16/10, 09:30 PM

I don't believe they make 'extension cords' large enough for your project. Someone mentioned #4 wire... sounds small to me... no matter what, go by the charts. It's not going to be cheap, by any means. Might even be worth it to get a different meter run set up, if this is a long term deal.

**clovis** · #12 04/16/10, 09:43 PM

This is one of those projects that I, personally, wouldn't go cheap.

Do this one right the first time, and you won't have to worry about it again.

The minute you go cheap on this project, your Uncle LeRoy from Minnesota will show up on your doorstep and will need a place to live, and will be willing to pay more rent than the place is worth, plus work 20 hours a week on the farm for free, but he'll need electric for a TV and a microwave.

fantasymaker · #13 04/16/10, 10:16 PM

You really don't need much power for lights and fans.
The Microwave is a power hog but you wont use it long at a time.
Stove , heater, hot water can all be propane You can even get propane lights and fridge .
Considering all that Id go with a battery and 12 volt system .
Id run some lights , the fan,a radio and maybe the microwave (through a inverter) off a deep cycle battery. Charge it at home and carry it down there ,off a car or you can run electrical cords to a charger there at the cabin.
The rest would be propane.

Gary in ohio · #14 04/17/10, 11:34 AM

Considering a GOOD 25ft 30amps cable is close to $100, you may find it cheaper to skip the extension cord idea all together, I have not priced it recently but "mobile home drop" cable was pretty cheap, designed for long runs and can be burried and will more than handle the current.

arabian knight · #15 04/17/10, 12:51 PM

Yes very true 109 bucks for 30 feet. that is mega high cost to run a distance of 300 Feet~!
Century Wire & Cable Motor Home Extension Cord — 30Ft., 6/3–8/1 STW, 50 Amp, Lighted Ends, Model# D19048030
Only $109.99 http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6516_200416516
I like that ONLY $109.99 lol
Way better to get a heavy duty 4 wire line buried in the ground, and come up on a post with a box, so you can plug in, forget all about this idea of running a extension cord that far.~ Unless money is no object.

Toads tool · #16 04/17/10, 10:31 PM

Call your local utility company and find out how much they would charge to trench in a new service. With 300 feet you should get a discount on the per ft. price.

gwithrow · #17 04/18/10, 07:17 AM

I have called the electric co...they will send someone out to see and give an estimate of the cost...underground is the only way I would want them to go, I suspect it is going to be costly and difficult as there are water lines, and several other electric lines in the ground as well as the septic it would have to cross to come down from our house,can't believe they will come in the other way even though it is a straight shot across the pasture, no trees...but much further...we will see, putting the electric in is the best in the long run...second best will be a generator...stay tuned....since this is not a 'for profit' venture, we have to be careful that the deal we got on the unit, is not superceded by the cost of the utilities..

fantasymaker · #18 04/18/10, 09:10 AM

Is this cabin already rigged for 110 current or will you be the one wireing and adding appliances?

gwithrow · #19 04/18/10, 02:15 PM

it is technically an RV, park model...has a big plug to plug in at the 'campsite'....looks like regular power to me...with regular outlets...two burner electric stove, electric heater and electric hot water heater....sided with 'log' siding and we got it for a deal....it is to be used as a guest overflow unit for family guests so we don't have to put a great deal of money into it...if we can use the existing hot water heater and heater then it can be used for longer in the season...and we will have to arrange for septic disposal....that is something we will address after we deal with the power issue...soooo we will see what the power company says...I hate to deal with them at all, but in the end it might be the easiest way to go...and the quietest...