Having trouble with NEW 390 Sthil?

braggscowboy · #1 04/12/10, 10:40 PM

I purchased a new 390 a couple weeks ago and decided to try it out on some Post Oak trees that I cut with my Husky a couple weeks ago to get them out of the way at my brothers and will make good wood. I cut five big trees Hickory and Post Oak. Took my new 390 this morning and Husky and kicked off the 390 to cut the Post Oak up into 18" lengths and it was cutting crooked. I have a new saw, bar, and chain! It was cutting to the left as looking at the saw when I was on the east side looking west on a north south log. I made about 14 cuts about 1/2 or 3/4 through about a 16". The bad thing was, it seemed, to pull the saw down and was not getting the rpm that I expected. My old 028 seemed to do as well, or better. I know it should be the chain if I sharpened it, but it is and new chain and bar. 20". Looking back at the saw down the bar, it appeared to be out a little more at the bottom than at the top of the bar, but maybe not or maybe they all are? Am going to take it back and have it checked where I purchased it. Anyone ever had this problem or have any ideas? I use the Husky to do the rest of the cuts and it did fine. Thanks for any help!

knight88 · #2 04/13/10, 12:23 AM

Best place to ask is:arboristsite.com...

haypoint · #3 04/13/10, 12:28 AM

I doubt it is a problem unique to the Sthil.
Sounds like you are close to figuring it out. If the bar looks like it is out on the bottom, the bar might be riding on the adjustment pin. Did you check that?

If that isn't it, take the bar off and lay it on a flat surface to check for a bent bar.

It is possible that the new chain is defective or someone damaged it. It only takes a few bad teeth to make the saw "cut bowls".

A chain that is way too tight will pull the bar out of whack.

Check all those things and if it still does it, try having the chain sharpened by a machine. I don't trust hand sharpening to straighten out a problem like this.

dezingg · #4 04/13/10, 12:40 AM

I'm wondering if all the cutting faces on the chain are angled to the left. But what I'm saying doesn't seem to make any sense.

I've never noticed a chain pulling one way or the other. I haven't looked at mine recently. I have the smaller Sthil 290 and an even smaller Homelite.

braggscowboy · #5 04/13/10, 01:39 PM

Chain as I said, is new as well as bar and saw. Took it back where I purchased it and they could not see anything wrong, as well as I could not. I had already checked the pin and everything that I knew to check and everything was OK. They were in agreement that it should be the chain, so they gave me a new one and I have not tried it yet will soon. The chain that was on it was a rapid cut and we replaced it with the recommended chain for that bar. They do not sell the green chains on their new saws, the new one I got is green.

michiganfarmer · #6 04/13/10, 02:21 PM

that IS very peculiar. peculier. peculure.

Its very weird.

I have an MS460 and have never seen that problem wiht any new chain and bar combo.

agmantoo · #7 04/13/10, 02:51 PM

If the saw is cutting to the side with the cut in this orientation ) the chain has a problem on the teeth on the left side. Regardless if the chain is new it needs to be resharpened. When it cuts in this manner ) it is binding the chain to the slot in the bar so yes it will bog the saw and it will wedge the bar. I bet when you cut a small limb a couple of inches in diameter it cuts great as is. Am I correct?

DaleK · #8 04/13/10, 09:48 PM

Weird, but I have the same problem with my MS 460. For some reason the teeth splay out quickly and it starts cutting one way or the other depending which way they go first. Running the same chain as on my two Husky's, slightly longer bar but the same make and model of bar, I sharpen them all the same way but I have no problem with the Husky's.

texican · #9 04/14/10, 12:16 AM

I'd resharpen, quicker than packing up and heading to the saw shop... which, for me, is dangerous. Too many orphans needing homes at the saw shop.

If I'd'a cut the oak trees down, I'd'a immediately bucked them up into whatever lengths I wanted. Heckuva lot easier on the blades cutting green wood compared to dried out... BTDT... and smoked blades... not good.

michiganfarmer · #10 04/14/10, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaleK

Weird, but I have the same problem with my MS 460. For some reason the teeth splay out quickly and it starts cutting one way or the other depending which way they go first. Running the same chain as on my two Husky's, slightly longer bar but the same make and model of bar, I sharpen them all the same way but I have no problem with the Husky's.

Isnt that 460 a hog? I sure like mine. Id buy a bigger one, but I dont want to have to use the .404 chain. I was told when I bouihgt my 460 that it was the biggest saw I could get and still use 3/8 chain

**Cabin Fever** · #11 04/14/10, 08:21 AM

The only other thing I can think of is to make sure that the bar and the chain size match. I believe that putting a .325 pitch chain in a 3/8" pitch bar can cause the problem you're having.

braggscowboy · #12 04/14/10, 08:30 AM

Took the saw back yesterday, they could not see anything wrong. As everyone said, it should be in the chain. They are very nice country people at a very small shop. Did not argue or question me in any way. Gave me a new "green chain" and I brought it home and put it on and tried it and it seems to be ok, I was in softer wood, but I think it will work. I have a Foley Belsaw sharpener and sharpened the other chain and there was a couple of teeth that seemed to be longer when sharpening. Have not tried the chain yet. agmantoo I think you hit the nail on the head. I wonder if .50 chain in a .63 bar could have happened? He did take the bar and chain off of another saw and put on the 390. Will keep you posted. Texican you are right about the trees, but were trying to get them out of fence and moved out of the way. Thanks everyone!

agmantoo · #13 04/14/10, 08:30 AM

braggscowboy
Let me share a hint with you regarding your about to try new blade. In the past, along with the rest of the world I was guilty of installing a new chain, adjusting the tension, firing the saw and sticking the bar onto what I was going to cut and pulling the trigger. After a few minutes if observed it would become apparent that the chain tension needs readjusting. We just become accustomed to think this is normal and necessary. It is not if the chain was properly broken in! Don't take my word on this, just try it and you will be convinced. Install the chain properly, put a little additional oilon the chain, fire up the saw, do not cut anything. Instead, just hold the chain saw an rev up the saw so that the chain is running about 1/3 normal cutting speed and then back off, do this numerous times but never to where the chain will get hot. After the first couple of minutes, (use a watch to verify the time period) increase the rev speed to 1/2 operating speed and run another full minute by revving and releasing using the trigger. At the end of this timed period carefully feel the chain to see if it is hot. If it is then repeat the last run period and see if the temp drops. Once the temp is just warm then rev the chain to as fast as you feel comfortable running the saw with no load for a full minute or longer. It should not heat up at this time. When the saw cease to heat the chain you are now ready to cut wood. You will be amazed at how much better the chain will perform and how infrequently you will have to adjust the tension on the chain in the future. This works!

agmantoo · #14 04/14/10, 08:39 AM

braggscowboy
It appears we hit the submit buttons at the same time. I regret I did not get here before you used the new chain. Was I clear with the ) symbol attempting to represent the direction of the cut as the bar goes through the tree? If so, just remember the sharper side will be the longer side of the curve being formed. The inside of the curve will the the side with an issue and the outside will be the better cutting side. When this happens I will often just sharpen one side of the chain to correct the problem.

**Cabin Fever** · #15 04/14/10, 09:00 AM

Just another related bit of info.

A blade, with perfectly sharpened cutting edges on each tooth, can still cut at an angle.

The reason for this would be that the rakers are shorter on one side of the blade compared to the other side. In other words, if the distance between the top of a cutting tooth and the top of its raker is short, this tooth/raker combination will cut a small chip. If all the teeth/raker distances on one side of a chain are short compared to the other side, the cut will curve toward the opposite side where the teeth are cutting larger chips.

braggscowboy · #16 04/14/10, 04:22 PM

Everyone, I sure appreciate the information and will try some of the suggested methods. Had not heard about breaking in a chain like mentioned, but will try it. I do think the problem appears in the chain. Cabin Fever, I had thought about the idea of wrong size chain, could have been the problem. The one I took off that I sharpened, I will try it sometime, and I have another on just like it and I will look it over before I install. The chains are from a bulk spool and could be the wrong chain. Thanks again.