Great Stuff and Foam Insulation?

big rockpile · #1 02/15/10, 10:37 AM

My wife was thinking of using Great Stuff along the Tops and Bottom of the Walls and around Windows and Doors and Regular Insulation in between Studs and Rafters.

Will there be a problem with moisture on the Foam Areas?

big rockpile

glenn amolenaar · #2 02/15/10, 11:18 AM

BR,
The foams work great but around doors and windows use the low expanding foam and DO NOT over fill the voids as foam will put pressure on the frames making in hard to open and close the doors & windows.
Glenn

salmonslayer · #3 02/15/10, 11:36 AM

We used that stuff on our house in Alaska when we replaced the windows and doors and we got a 5 star energy rating afterwards. We only pay $700.00 a year for heating a 1250 square foot house up here and the foam eliminated drafts as well.

If I had the money I would foam insulate my entire house but its very expensive.

7thswan · #4 02/15/10, 11:57 AM

No, the moisture doesn't seem to bother the stuff.

Ed Norman · #5 02/15/10, 12:05 PM

I've used it in the past to fill cracks in old sheds and shops. Our new windows had a sticker saying the warranty would be void if it was used around them, because it does put pressure against things if you get carried away with it.

Gary in ohio · #6 02/15/10, 12:08 PM

Make sure you get the correct "stuff" for the application. There are many different version of "Great Stuff" foam insulation. They are not the same..

blooba · #7 02/15/10, 01:15 PM

From the DOW.com website
"There are two key differences between latex foam and GREAT STUFF™, which is a polyurethane foam:
1. Latex foams are typically "open cell" and, as a result, can take on water. In fact, the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water. This can cause wood rot or deterioration in areas where wet latex foam is next to wood, such as a window frame. In contrast, GREAT STUFF™ is a closed-cell foam. It forms a water-resistant outer coating when cured.
2. Latex foam does not expand. GREAT STUFF™ expands to thoroughly fill all voids and cavities making it an ideal air sealant."

But it is expensive compared to other insulation methods.

fishhead · #8 02/15/10, 02:22 PM

If you are using it around the windows or doors get the stuff marked for that use. The other stuff can move things and cause problems.

TnAndy · #9 02/15/10, 04:27 PM

Best "stuff" to use around doors/windows ( not exposed to weather ) is DAP brand latex. It expands very lightly.....a fluffy foam like cotton candy, doesn't harden or bow jams. Also, clean up is simply soap water....."Great Stuff" is a mess if you get it on ANYTHING you don't want it on....

big rockpile · #10 02/16/10, 03:30 PM

Well I checked today and found Great Stuff in the Blue Can which they say is for what I want.

big rockpile

blooba · #11 02/16/10, 03:40 PM

yep, blue is window and door, looked on their site, also saw they have a pond and stone(gotta be new) sounds interesting. Might be able to do alot of stuff with this.

GREAT STUFF™ Pond & Stone is the easy way to create beautiful aquascapes and hardscapes. By expanding to fill gaps and cracks, our foam filler helps direct the flow of water in waterfall, pond and streambed construction to the exterior of the water feature, instead of between or behind rocks. The foam’s black color means it’s easily hidden among the stones and shadows. It creates a permanent, water-shedding bond to stone, rock, masonry, concrete and most other building materials. You can construct the stunning water features you’ve always envisioned, without harming plants or fish.

Landscape/hardscape foam filler, sealer and adhesive
Damp and dry application
Adheres to stone and rock
Water-resistant
Fish and plant safe
Expands to fill gaps to direct water flow over rocks
Secures stones without mortar
Repairs cracks and holes in trees
Cures in 8 hours
Black colored foam
One 12 oz. can = up to 19 tubes of caulk
One 16 oz. can = up to 24 tubes of caulk
All direction dispensing
UL Classified

artificer · #12 02/17/10, 07:08 AM

This is my preferred method of insulating our house as I remodel it. Since the house was built in 1890's none of the stud cavity's are uniform. I cut the 2" foam undersized, and use Great Stuff triple expanding foam to seal and lock the foam in place. Works very well. I'd put my R-10 foam walls up against anyone's R-13 fiberglass 2x4 stud wall insulation. Then again... I also have 1" foam on the outside of the studs as well.

Michael

fishhead · #13 02/17/10, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by artificer

This is my preferred method of insulating our house as I remodel it. Since the house was built in 1890's none of the stud cavity's are uniform. I cut the 2" foam undersized, and use Great Stuff triple expanding foam to seal and lock the foam in place. Works very well. I'd put my R-10 foam walls up against anyone's R-13 fiberglass 2x4 stud wall insulation. Then again... I also have 1" foam on the outside of the studs as well.

Michael

How many cavities can you do that way for each can of foam?

artificer · #14 02/17/10, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhead

How many cavities can you do that way for each can of foam?

It depends on if you cut the foam for a tight fit, or leave extra to allow the can's nozzle to extend into the crack. Probably 3-4bays/can on average, if I'm not remembering it wrong. Less if the cracks are bigger.

Michael

**Ross** · #15 02/17/10, 10:44 PM

If you get the foam guns with the screw on cans you will get more coverage and much better control both for amount and where it goes.