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01/17/10, 11:18 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NE PA Near Lake Wallenpaupack
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KILZ or UGL For stone walls?
As I prep the basement for future storage/possible extra pantry space (long story, originally for mostly 2nd pantry), what is better for a stone wall in the basement; UGL or KILZ? Both have good track records from prior use, but I would like some extra input.
Walls are field stone, below grade, minimal moisture, no flowing water, just moisture buildup on occasion. Concrete floor, circulating fan to prevent possible mildew (never yet, but could happen). Some dirt from the mortar joints (house is 1860 construction), but completely solid.
Any preference between the two paints/coverings?
Thanks,
Matt
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01/17/10, 12:44 PM
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Brenda Groth
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7,817
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DRYLOCK...that is the only thing i would ever use on porous basement walls..and use it first..before anything else..as it expands to fill the pores and waterproof it..a roller works ok but we use a brush
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01/17/10, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NE PA Near Lake Wallenpaupack
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Is it okay to thin it to use in a power sprayer? Due to the roughness (natural stone qualities) one of those wallpaper paste (large bristle length) brushes would be necessary if not able to spray, correct?
Thanks.
Matt
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01/17/10, 03:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Eastern North Carolina
Posts: 34,198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadking
Is it okay to thin it to use in a power sprayer? Due to the roughness (natural stone qualities) one of those wallpaper paste (large bristle length) brushes would be necessary if not able to spray, correct?
Thanks.
Matt
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Spray specs:
http://www.ugl.com/drylokMasonry/mas...ofer/latex.php
__________________
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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01/17/10, 03:51 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: ne tn.
Posts: 165
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the dryloc works very well. keep in mind the over spray from spraying. anything not covered will get coated. even with it being a water base product. you need a respirator with a full face sheild. you also need someway to vent the area. you could cut in with a brush, then use a heavy nap roller for remainder.
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01/17/10, 04:54 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,069
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Check out "Thoro-Seal" products from a masonary supplier. It is like drylock, but cheaper and better. I have used it extensively on concrete foundations, and it works. You have to use an acrylic additive called Acryl 60 for maximum peformance. Although I have used it in new construction, a customer of mine has sucessfully used it to STOP flowing water in the stone basement of his 110 year old farmhouse. He waited until a dry spell, wire brushed the wall to remove all the loose stuff, then applied Thoro-Seal. The basement is now dry. In the past, water continuously flowed down the wall and into a floor drain, every time there was a hard rain. It is recommended for pools, dams and water tanks.
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01/17/10, 08:14 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NE PA Near Lake Wallenpaupack
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I appreciate the input. Thank you.
Matt
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01/17/10, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in the USSR
Posts: 9,961
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In industrial settings with "basements" that go forty or more feet below ground, I've seen Thoroseal used. There are products that can cut off water from outside the wall by drilling holes and using an injection process but they aren't designed for use by homeowners.
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01/18/10, 04:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 964
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The only problem I see is that your mortar is probably a lime based one, as opposed to the modern cement ones. Lime mortars let the moisture out, but the cement ones don't.
I've heard of stone walls disintegrating because someone used a cement/non-porous coating over lime mortar and stone.
Don't know if its applicable, but something to think about.
Michael
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01/18/10, 07:31 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,406
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We used dry lock on our basement walls, the latex version. AND OMG it stopped every leak, we used to check after every rain, now no need
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01/18/10, 09:33 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NE PA Near Lake Wallenpaupack
Posts: 5,223
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No, no leaks. Yes, lime mortar which is still very well intact. The main reason for the question is that at one point in time, the walls had been painted; much is still decent, some has flaked away. I'd prefer to look at the beautiful stone, however, the white really adds a bunch of lighting and I also don't plan on blasting /brushing/pressure washing the old paint off.
BTW, Drylock is chosen, and Dex-o-Tek for the floor (I love free 2 part epoxy!).
Thanks again everyone.
Matt
P.S. Floor is done!
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01/19/10, 01:33 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 859
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I painted an outdoor brick facade on a commercial building in about 94. we used a product specifically to seal bricks then painted on top of it. it was very thin and could have been sprayed on.
still looks as good as the day I painted it though the south side wall is faded. still no peeling.
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