Round steps, how to do them in wood?

[Jenn]

Taking up my carpet finally- can any carpenters (hard to find in my area) tell me what is likely to be under the rug where I have two round steps going down 17"- in a hall 6.5' wide the lower step is that diameter and the upper step is about 4.5' diameter. The risers feel like solid curved material presumably plywood/wood like the rest of the subflooring though aside from a series of vertical boards I doubt they would spend for a curved piece of wood there.

Think I can pull off the rug, put some nice wood on top, paint the risers or is there some technique for what was done that will make that not so nice looking? I'm using Bruce/Armstrong for the rest of the house, they don't make curved bullnosing so I'll probably just get the top round steps cut and stained at a local cabinet maker.

The alternative is to replace whatever's there with a half hexagon or octagon and do that in the Bruce flooring once I have some straight edges.

Thanks for your expert advice, and any websites to comprehend this? Can't find 'em yet!

[UncleD]

Maybe some pictures of what you have would help. I'm having trouble picturing it in my head.

[Curtis B]

You can bend plywood, by scoring the back with a saw, or by layering 1/4 ply. If you have the time with a dia those sizes, you might be able to place some cuts in the bull nose and bend it. If you wanted something more durable than paint, you could tile. If the tiling would intrest you I could go through the process of doing a curve.

[geo in mi]

My guess is that the curves were routed in place by a portable router with a bullnose bit--either freehand to a scribed radius, or with a precut masonite guide.

[Harry Chickpea]

The risers could be painted, but I suspect that they will be rough enough that you will want to cover them with laminate or some other more finished surface. With curves like that, the pro that is going to have the most success is likely to be a countertop expert.

[Jenn]

Uncle right now it's covered in carpeting- Here goes some photos:

http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...L/DSC00380.jpg the red tape is an idea for a new shape...

http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...L/DSC00382.jpg shows the side- may have to redo the molding.

http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...L/DSC00381.jpg shows the whole view- maybe the steps are to mirror the arch there.

I could just put in straight steps I guess but wondering if I can easily/not too expensively keep the round shape.

[wy_white_wolf]

The risers may be 2 or 3 layers of 1/4 inch plywood. You could add another layer to it that has a nice veneer on one side or add just a veneer to what's there.

The bullnose could be done in shorter sections or if you can find an oldtime cabinet maker he would know how to steam and bend it.

[Harry Chickpea]

Jenn, straight steps would be much more appropriate. There is a reason for the use of wedding cake stairs, and it is typically where a hall or raised area opens out onto an expanse. About the only possible (lame) justification for using such stairs in what is a 6' wide hallway is to keep people away from the walls. Were bedrooms added into what was originally designed to be a great room? That could explain the stairs being left where they were. Architecturally, they are totally inappropriate for the spot.

The hallway extension to the window is also odd. Normally, the hall would cut off at the doors, and the window would be incorporated into one of the two rooms that flank it. It feels like there was some modification to the house to either fit a growing family, or add bedrooms to bump the selling price up.

[KMA1]

Jenn,

Here is the way I would do it. The whole steps are very likely made up of plywood. 1. Take the carpet off and take a length of 1x8 board and lay it out on the steps much like your tape, makeing the layout symetrical, and make sure the outer edge of the board hangs over the front of the step. 2. At the points where your layout lines with the 8" board cross, mark a line perpendicular to the front of the step through the crossing point. 3. Now what you have marked on the top of the steps is a template to cut pieces of clear 1x8 board of the same species as your flooring. 4. After you cut those pieces and fit them carefully in place, use a pencil to make the leading edge of the bullnose. This gives you a line that you can cut 0.5" to the outside of with a sabre saw. 5. Now you will also need a sheet of 0.25" plywood of a wood that matched your floor as close as possible. (Its handy if your floor is red oak, cause you can get this anywhere in stock.) 6. Take a router with a flush cut bit and cut the existing step tred back flush with the edge of the riser. 6. Cut strips of 0.25" plywood equal in width to your riser plus the old step top and install with construction adhesive and small finishing nails. 7. Now install your 1x8" boards tightly fitted with construction adhesive and face nail. 8. With a carbide bullnose bit that also has a bearing you can now cut a finished bullnose on your tread nose. (you will have to hand finish a short section at each end of the step. Also, if you want another piece of trim under the tred, all you have to do is allow for the width of trim when you rough cut the boards.) 9. Stain and poly the boards as desired along with the riser. 10. Cut and apply your flooring. This maintains the height of all your steps equally.

[Wolf mom]

I agree with Harry.

Also for resale, especially if this is not your "forever" home. People are actually more comfortable with the 'norm'.

Straight steps going from wall to wall would also be safer.

[wyld thang]

wow, those are goofy steps, I agree, make them straight!!! for safety AND looks!!! (and easyness!!!)

[TurnerHill]

As Harry says, I'd replace the steps entirely.

The trifecta of easier, safer and better looking is hard to beat.

[mandidawn]

I'm seconding (or thirding) saying replace those steps with straight ones. How deep are they? they look really shallow (although that may be a trick of the angle of photo).

[Jenn]

bottom step 5 &1/8" high middle step 5&3/4 " top 5 &1/8" again

Is that what you meant by deep? The farthest distance from prior step (middle of the circle) is 26" for the upper circle, 13" for the lower circle step.

Harry that makes sense. They also- at the end of that hall, between two bedrooms on the top 2nd floor- have 4' that is an inch lower than the rest of the floor- guess it's over the porch instead of the first floor.

[cfabe]

I agree with others, replace them with normal straight stairs, and also add a hand rail.

[crobar]

There are rules of thumb for steps, tread & riser measurements. They are for safety and for ease of climbing. I think the present steps are attractive, but actually they are a hazard for the young & old, and at my age (56), a handrail is nice.

[Maura]

I agree with Harry. The curved steps don't fit the house, and they are "break a leg" steps anyway.

[Jenn]

Thank you I will try to get them done/ do them straight, and add a handrail!

[NostalgicGranny]

Looks wise I liked them they seemed to balance everything out - but safety first, can't have anyone breaking a leg.

[NJ Rich]

I didn't read all the posts. Just my thoughts.............

I agree about changing the steps from curved to straight. Handrails should be on both sides. As for the finish on the front of the risers you could use a laminate such as formica. Many cabinet shops have scraps that will go well with your flooring. You maybe able to buy it cheap. Use the glue they recommend and how to use it. Use a throw away brush or narrow roller to apply the glue. The laminate will last for years and is nice looking too.

Good luck. NJRich