draining pipes

marvella · #1 12/03/09, 12:31 PM

my renters moved out, of course without paying rent. grrrr. sigh.

i'm going to leave it vacant for a while and make repairs. there is no heat so i need to drain the pipes to keep them from freezing.

can anyone give me a tutorial??

TIA!!

**Cabin Fever** · #2 12/03/09, 12:39 PM

1. Turn off the water. (If the house is on a well, there are more instructions).

2. Open every valve/faucet in the house including the one on the bottom of the water heater.

3. Flush the toliet(s) until the tank is empty. Using a sponge, remove all water from the tank and bowl. Pour in a cup of RV antifreeze in the bowl.

4. Turn the washing machine on to wash (in order to allow water in the pipes to drain into the washer tub). Once the water stops entering the washer tub, turn the knob to the spin dry cycle to drain the water.

5. Pour a cup of RV antifreeze in every sink and bath tub drain.

6. Pour a cup of RV antifreeze in all the floor drain.

What am I forgetting?

watcher · #3 12/03/09, 12:47 PM

Been there, done that and this is what I do. Shut off the water (duh). Then open the valve that is the lowest, usually a hose bib. If possible before you do attach a water hose and run the end as far down hill as possible. Then open all the valves/faucets, hot and cold, starting with the one the farthest to the open valve and working toward the closest.

Then flush the toilets. After flushing them put some toilet antifreeze in the toilet bowl. You can find it in the RV section of most big stores. Friend of mine didn't and came back to discover the water in the toilet trap had frozen and busted his toilet.

Speaking of traps, you should pour some of the antifreeze down all of your drains. PVC is a little more forgiving than porcelain but it can bust as well.

Personally I would also drain the water heater if I were going to be gone for a while. You probably already have it turned off but if not turn it off first. Then attach a water hose to the drain valve. Open the drain valve then either hold the pressure release valve open or loosen the water lines. MAKE SURE YOU REFILL THE TANK WITH WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT ON AGAIN.

watcher · #4 12/03/09, 12:49 PM

Thanks CF, I forgot about the washing machine. There is also the ice maker on the frig and the dish washer.

**Cabin Fever** · #5 12/03/09, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by watcher

Thanks CF, I forgot about the washing machine. There is also the ice maker on the frig and the dish washer.

Yes, you're right! I have never drained a house with an icemaker and dishwater. How about a water softener?

Make sure you open all outdoor sillcocks too.

wy_white_wolf · #6 12/03/09, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cabin Fever

.....What am I forgetting?

Hope the plumbing was designed to be drained.

If it wasn't or unsure you might want to check into having the plumbing "blown" out. That involves disconnecting the plumbing where it comes into the house and using compressed air to purge the system of all trapped water.

marvella · #7 12/03/09, 01:55 PM

thanks, CF, that looks simple enough. it is on a well, the same one my house is on. there is a valve to turn off the water to the trailer only, will that make a difference re: your well comment?

watcher, thanks for the HW heater tip. it is still on, it's gas so it probably won't freeze as long as the pilot stays lit??

there is no ice maker and the dishwasher isn't working. teneat before this one broke it, fixed it, then took the repairs (yes the pipes) when he left. nice guy. my daugher married him. grrrr...

more replies, thanks y'all!!

no water softener. and yes it can be drained. it was drained when i bought the place. i just didn't know how and neither did my son. consider this thread printed for reference.

thanks!! as usual, HT is a big help.

watcher · #8 12/03/09, 02:18 PM

As for the water heater. I'd cut the gas off and drain it for two reasons. 1) I don't see any need to waste gas, I'm cheap.

2) I would not want to take the chance of busting it. Draining it would take less time than replacing it. As well as taking a lot less money.

**Cabin Fever** · #9 12/03/09, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marvella

thanks, CF, that looks simple enough. it is on a well, the same one my house is on. there is a valve to turn off the water to the trailer only, will that make a difference re: your well comment?

watcher, thanks for the HW heater tip. it is still on, it's gas so it probably won't freeze as long as the pilot stays lit??....

Another reason to drain your HW heater is that the hot water lines will not drain...and possibly freeze.....without draining the HW heater too.

The reason I made the well comment is that in some situations the well pump and pressure tank also have to be drained. This doesn;t seem to be necessary in your case.

cfabe · #10 12/03/09, 04:06 PM

None of the houses I have lived in would drain the lines completely just by opening faucets. I would only leave the house unheated after blowing the lines with compressed air.

o&itw · #11 12/03/09, 04:14 PM

yep, most pipes are not perfectly level, and will usualy trap water somwhere.
any lines that run horizontal, will need to disconnect at the sink etc. and use a tank of compressed air to blow out.

I didn't get a chance to read the whole thread. Does the house have a basement? If it does, and it gets cold enough to freeze down there... you might have some troubles with your walls, especially if they are block.

marvella · #12 12/04/09, 09:10 AM

no basement. it's a DW trailer.

i forgot to mention, the pipes have heat tape on them and i have kept the electric service to the house.

and one more thing- this isn't minnesota upstate NY or the UP here, i'm in central east, east tn at the NC line, zone 6/7- our winters are generally quite mild, on average 40 day/ 20 night. but upon occasion the polar express comes through and freezes everything solid.