First you need to check the capacitor on the existing motor. A hum is either the capacitor or the start relay/points or a burned start winding. You may have an insect in the start points. If the pump is running on 240 volts verify that you have not lost a leg and that it is only getting 120 volts
Is this deep well a 6 inch or larger casing?
If it is, a conversion to a submersible pump would be highly advised. Submersible pumps last far longer and do not have near the amount of problems.
With the pump you now have if you were satisfied with the pressure and the volume of water you were getting there would be no benefit in going to a higher HP.
You need to trash the bladder tank if the 20 gallon is the overall size of the tank and get as big a bladder tank as will fit in the tank area. A minimum of 20 gallons drawdown would be my choice. The tank needs to be made by Flexcon, but can be sold under a number of names.
First you need to check the capacitor on the existing motor. A hum is either the capacitor or the start relay/points or a burned start winding.
There are TONS of Japanese beetles in the well house, yeah it hums and the motor casing gets VERY warm.
Do you recommend I just remove the motor and send it to a electric motor shop? Is it possible to replace just the motor on the pump rather than the whole pump. It would save me disconnecting all the plumbing, priming the system etc. I would get/fix the identical motor, but I'm not sure exactly how the motor is mounted to the pump and if there are any seals I need to worry about.
I recommend that you disconnect the power and then short the capacitor terminals to each other using an insulated screwdriver. If it arcs hard then the capacitor is OK. If no arc look for leaks at the end with the terminals and smell the cap. for burned smell. If it leaks or smells burned buy a new cap and install and try to see if the motor starts. Some one with a multimeter could check the cap. The cap. is cheap and should be under $10. Open the cover plate on the back of the motor and look inside there and thru the vent holes in the back of the motor and see if you can locate a set of points on a spring held set of metal arms. Look for an insect in there. If seen, with the power off get the debris out and try the motor. I need a pic of the motor/pump to advise you on how to disassemble. If the pump impeller is screw mounted to the motor I doubt that you can change the motor. If the motor to pump mount is open then the motor can be replaced without disturbing the seal.
whenever I plug in the motor, it will move a LITTLE not much at all. I tried shorting out the cap and did not get any sparks.(the cap is behind a cover on the back of the motor)
looking at the design it looks like I can simply unbolt the motor from the pump head, so I probably will unbolt this motor and let a expert look at it.
So since it at least ATTEMPTED to turn, I would say that my field coil is good, the shaft did not turn easy(but once I disconnect the motor from the pump head I can get it on a bench for a better look)
Am I not making my inputs clear? The motor will not come off that easily. The end of the motor shaft is connected to the impeller. If it is a close coupled unit you have to take the pump apart. The capacitor should have thrown a heavy spark. I read that it did not. You need to check the capacitor before doing anything else.