Rusted Lug Nuts

[doc623]

Does anyone have any tips for removing lug nuts off a wheel that are visibly rusted.
I have a two wheel trailer that I use sproatically; have had it for years; periodically it has set out in the weather.
It has 15" wheels and is builgt on a truck rearend axle with springs and wheels. And over the years the lugs and nuts have rusted.
I need to replace/repair a tire. Therefore I need to remove the wheel.
I have thought of penetrating oil and/or impact wrench.
The thing I am affraid of is twisting the lug off when using an impact wrench to get the nut off.
Any tips to prevent this would be appreciated.

[mnn2501]

penetrating oil and let it soak for a bit, I thing a lug wrench would be better than an impact wrench for getting them loose though.

If its still drivable you could have a garage do it, since their so rusted.

[Michael Kawalek]

My experience with rusted nuts is that slow, steady force will snap off the bolt. It's better to use sharp hammer blows to break a rusty connection.

I'd soak the nuts with penetrating oil like MNN said. Soak them overnight and try taking them off the next day. I'd use a X tire wrench, you know the one with four different lug nut sizes. Cut a length of 2X4 to fit under the wrench, then wack the wrench with a mallet.
Good luck,
Michael

[Cabin Fever]

In my experience, an impact wrench has always removed rusty lug nuts without busting the bolts. The quick impacts "break" the rusty bond between the nuts and bolts.

[L.A.]

PB Blaster spray in a few hours they should be ready

[Katey]

Incidentally, replacing the bolt is no big deal. They are a friction fit. The come with little spines around the shaft that compress when you drive them through the hole. Cheap, too.

[doc623]

Also forgot to ask about heating the nuts?

[watcher]

Been there, done that. As a last resort. Heat, tight fitting high quality socket, 12-18 inch extension, floor jack or some blocks, a breaker bar and a piece of pipe. Set the blocks up so the extension will be level, heat the nut, let it cool, heat the nut, put the socket/extension/breaker bar on the nut, make sure blocks support the extension, put pipe on the breaker bar and PULL. Either the nut will turn or the lug will break. But if things are rusted this bad I'd replace them anyway.

Anti-seize and lug nut covers will help having to go thorough it again.

[GoldenCityMuse]

Wire brush off the loose rust & scale first, especially where the threads are.
As mentioned, spray copious amounts of penetrating oil. Wait overnight.
I have a 12V portable impact tool, that is not too high torque. It has a low BPM beats per minute].

Set the impact tool to TIGHTEN first, and tap the trigger for a half second or so twice.
Spray with more oil.

Loosen for a 2-3 sec burst, spray more oil.
Repeat.

Then impact loose until it comes off or the lug breaks.

That's how I would do it.

[Wis Bang]

P B Blaster works. When I was a teen working in the corner gas station the mechanic would spray rusted nuts and impact until it turned a little, re-sprayed and tightened it some 'to let the oil flow in' and then removed them.

If the impact didn't do it; he reached for the torch...would make it cherry red ans try again w/ the impact...

Fastest way to clear out old exhaust was to tighten on the rusted clamp nuts w/ a breaker bar and snap them off...wheel studs are a little tougher. If you break one off you still have enough left to hold...

[Farmerwilly2]

I'll third the PB Blaster. Lugs aren't usually too bad to replace, they drive out and pull in. If they were real nasty I'd want rid of them.

[FlatlinesUp]

another vote for PBblaster and I'll second the impact tighten then loosen method as well

[HermitJohn]

Originally Posted by Katey

Incidentally, replacing the bolt is no big deal. They are a friction fit. The come with little spines around the shaft that compress when you drive them through the hole. Cheap, too.

IF you can find replacement bolts. On older stuff, not necessarily that easy. And there are the horror stories like when I used to have that '72 Courier. It had left hand thread lug bolts on drivers side. Some kid at tire place created quite a mess for his boss when he busted/stripped most of them with impact wrench.... Tried to pass the buck to me. Told them no, you turned them wrong way and ruined them, you replace them. They had to search several salvage yards to find replacements.

[plowjockey]

Sometimes surface rusted lug nuts are not rusted in the internal threads. Have you tried to loosen one? Might not be that big of deal.

Applying a anti-seize product to the threads, before putting the lug nuts back on, will prevent the threads from rusting internally.

[Darren]

PB Blaster is good. Kroil is better. Soak with what ever penetrating fluid you have. Wait. Use the impact on a very low setting to start. Apply more oil. Wait. Try the impact again. Try it forward and reverse. Repeat and start increasing the setting on the impact. The key is to not get in a hurry. The shock of the impact will work better than a strong even force.

A friend just used the same technique to remove an exhaust manifold. Worked like a charm

[cowcreekgeeks]

I'm with the folks for PB Blaster...that stuff will really do a job!

[Old Vet]

Originally Posted by HermitJohn

IF you can find replacement bolts. On older stuff, not necessarily that easy. And there are the horror stories like when I used to have that '72 Courier. It had left hand thread lug bolts on drivers side. Some kid at tire place created quite a mess for his boss when he busted/stripped most of them with impact wrench.... Tried to pass the buck to me. Told them no, you turned them wrong way and ruined them, you replace them. They had to search several salvage yards to find replacements.

Lugs are cheap and can be found at most automotive stores. I payed $1 each and got new ones. What you do is to take the part they are on and tap them out then tap them in and tighten the nut to finally get them in. If your trailer doesn have breaks you can do this with no trouble.

[rambler]

You're on course with the PB Blaster type stuff, and then an impact wrench. That will do it.

Heat would be a last resort - I'd worry about warping something, or taking the te,mper out of something. Not sure if you have working brakes on this axle, or the like....

I've heard of a little heat - a small LP torch like for soldering - and melt candle wax into the joint from the heat. You don't get the iron anywhere near red, just warmed up. I've never done it, but heard it works like PB Blaster.

--->Paul

[Alice In TX/MO]

I keep reading this thread's title as.....

Roasted Lug Nuts

[HermitJohn]

Originally Posted by Old Vet

Lugs are cheap and can be found at most automotive stores. I payed $1 each and got new ones. What you do is to take the part they are on and tap them out then tap them in and tighten the nut to finally get them in. If your trailer doesn have breaks you can do this with no trouble.

Lug bolts are not universal. They come in different diameters and lengths and different splines that drive into the hub. If you have a widely popular vehicle, yep probably buy new ones at parts store. Have some oddball thing and you are going to be scouring junkyards far and wide. Anymore junkyards dont want to sell small parts, they sell "assemblies". Want to buy another rear axle cause you couldnt buy replacement lug bolt?