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  #1  
Old 09/04/09, 01:26 PM
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Another tractor question

Getting ready to pull the head off the 5000 ford got all the bolts out and ever thing is loose but the head will not move hit it with the rubber hammer nothing what an i doing wrong I have never done this before can you tell .
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  #2  
Old 09/04/09, 01:34 PM
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IF you are sure you have all, (ALL), ALL, did I say all, the bolts out try with a long heavy screwdriver around the corners. There maybe 4 bolts behind the head with a bracket that supports the fuel tank or cowling around the fuel tank. Check for bolts under the rocker arm shaft. and the rocker arm shaft bolts also need to come out.

PS the head is heavy

PSS I use to work for a ford tractor dealership but that was eons ago.

L
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  #3  
Old 09/04/09, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dakine View Post
IF you are sure you have all, (ALL), ALL, did I say all, the bolts out try with a long heavy screwdriver around the corners.
Where's the fun in that? I thought you were supposed to squirt in a blastful of ether and turn her over right good. lol Don't ask me for further instructions if you try that one.
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  #4  
Old 09/04/09, 01:43 PM
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Ah Ha the rocker arm shaft bolts need to come out does the allen head bolts under the rocker arms also need to come out ??
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  #5  
Old 09/04/09, 01:45 PM
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Windy thanks I tink I will wait on that one ok lol
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  #6  
Old 09/04/09, 02:37 PM
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OK Head is off bolts on rocker arm shaft was the key thanks Note to self drain anti-freeze from block before pulling head off . Now for the oil pan any helpful advice ob this one ?
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  #7  
Old 09/04/09, 04:16 PM
 
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Originally Posted by oldmanriver View Post
OK Head is off bolts on rocker arm shaft was the key thanks Note to self drain anti-freeze from block before pulling head off . Now for the oil pan any helpful advice ob this one ?

Drain the oil first.

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  #8  
Old 09/04/09, 04:35 PM
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If I remember right the oil pan was a heavy cast iron beast. Some times you had to kind of wind it down because of the oil pickup. if it is stamped steel just undo the bolts and drop er down.
I think the rrear crank seal is in the block. Not part of the pan. dont remember the front. I do remember the pan gasket came in 4 pieces back then

L

Last edited by dakine; 09/04/09 at 04:39 PM.
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  #9  
Old 09/04/09, 04:46 PM
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The oil pan should have 37 bolts holding it, (that includes the two that are hidden around the corner out of line of sight) make sure you remove all 40 of them.
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  #10  
Old 09/04/09, 05:06 PM
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Ok it looks like the front end will have to be remove to get the oil pan off does this sound right . It is huge
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  #11  
Old 09/04/09, 05:40 PM
 
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You will have to make some tapered wedges to place on top of the front axle on each side. These wedges need to be a tight fit between the axle and the front end casting to prevent it from tipping sideways when you remove the bolts attaching it to the oil pan.

When separating the front end from the oil pan watch for shims where the attaching bolts thread into the pan.

There should be threaded holes in the front of the casting. Fabricate a piece of angle iron that can be bolted to the front of the casting. Attach a long bar, or piece of pipe to this so that a helper can keep the front end assembly upright while it is being moved away from the front of the tractor.

Block up under the transmission housing far enough back that you have room to work while removing the rear pan bolts.
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  #12  
Old 09/04/09, 07:23 PM
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sounds like oneokie has got it tagged right. I do remember to put the head back on you should make some dowels to guide the head.

Take two bolts the same size as the head mount bolts and cut the oct head off. saw a screwdriver slot in the top and use a grinder to smooth the corners. screw the bolts into the block, slide the head down, then remove and install the proper head mounting bolts.

I can send a picture if you need.

L
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  #13  
Old 09/05/09, 09:14 AM
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Can I take the short bolts out and put longer bolts like 6 inches in there place and bring the front end out enough to drop the pan ?
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  #14  
Old 09/05/09, 11:42 AM
 
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Originally Posted by oldmanriver View Post
Can I take the short bolts out and put longer bolts like 6 inches in there place and bring the front end out enough to drop the pan ?
Do the upper bolts go into the engine block? If they do, my suggestion is to get how ever many bolts that attach the front end assy to the tractor, the length you want to move the f.e. assy. forward for pan removal. Make sure what ever length you decide on will have full thread engagement in the engine. Also, spacers or flat washers to fill the gap you plan on having.

Remove the current attaching bolts one at a time and replace with one of the longer bolts. When you have all of the attaching bolts replaced with the longer ones, move the f.e. assy. forward. Remove the upper attaching bolts one at a time and insert a spacer or stack of flat washers and reinstall the bolt securely. Repeat this with the other upper attaching bolts.

I would securely block the front tires/wheels so that there is no chance of the f.e. assy. tilting when you remove the bolts that thread into the pan. I would also place the wedges between the top of the axle and the f.e. housing.
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