Fixing My Fence

[MoonRiver]

Here's my layout. I have 3/4 acre with house that fronts the road. I have a fenced garden within that 3/4 acre. I'm going to replace the wire (now 2"x4" with 2"x2") to keep the rabbits out. I know what I need to do for that.

Here's my problem. I have a 2 acre parcel behind my lot that is fenced. Most of the fence posts are rotten and loose. The current fencing is 4' 2"x8" wire with 2 strands of barbed wire above them. Obviously all the wire is rusted.

I dropped some trees on a section of fence so I need to fix that part 1st. I started on it today but quickly realized that several fence posts need to be replaced. The wire is so old and rusty it is hard to stretch it enough to get it tight.

So I am thinking about replacing the fencing with new fencing, and not replacing the barbed wire. I am not trying to fence in any animals and it doesn't slow the deer down at all. I can get 7' round fence posts at Lowes, so I was thinking about putting them at corners and maybe every 4 posts or so and setting them in concrete. Then reuse whatever current posts I can salvage. I can easily dig down 2' with my manual post hole digger.

So I need your expertise. I need your best ideas for cheap and easy. I would love to replace it with a wood fence but can't afford that.

[plowjockey]

Is there a requirement to have a fence? Otherwise, why put one up until you are ready to do it the way you want it?

There is not much in the way of cheap or easy, when it comes to fencing.

The best thing you can do, IMO is pull out ALL of the old fencing, otherwise you will be continually repairing it, as it is old and brittle.

I would suggest high tensile fence. It's about $100 for a 4000' roll. Plus tensioners, staples, connector lugs and crimping tool.

You are looking at about 1248' of fence

[Bearfootfarm]

If there is an Agri Supply near you, they will have better prices on posts and other fencing supplies

http://www.agrisupply.com/default.asp

[rambler]

It's hard to know what type of build for a fence when there is no reason for the fence. Privacy, livestock, tresspassing, or... Seems like saving money for a while & then going at it might work as well, but not my business.

Here in my climate, it is a bad idea to put wood posts in concrete. It makes them rot much faster. You could put a small donught of concrete around the bottom deep in the ground. Just a few inches.

Two feet also would not be deepe enough for wood posts. Here.

A good ag supply store likely has better prices, or beter selection, than a box store for an item like farm fence posts.

Now, so many folk from farther south talk about concreting in their fence posts. I'm always baffeled as to why, but it must work somewhere for so many to do it, and there must be some need for that? I've never understood it.

--->Paul

[Yvonne's hubby]

Originally Posted by rambler

Now, so many folk from farther south talk about concreting in their fence posts. I'm always baffeled as to why, but it must work somewhere for so many to do it, and there must be some need for that? I've never understood it.

--->Paul

Concrete around the post makes em good n tite. Also we use a lot of cedar or treated posts in this area, so rot isnt as much concern but the soil doesnt tamp well and loose posts are not the desired affect. Different things work in different areas. When I fenced our place I used treated 5 inch posts but drove them instead of digging holes. between the wood posts I used 5 steel T posts about 15 ft apart. Stretched 48 inch woven wire and a strand of barb along the top. It holds my cows pretty good that way, unless some of the neighbor kids leave a gate open on their way to the swimmin hole.

[||Downhome||]

here theres guys that run thier own little saw mills and sell rough sawn oak for a fraction it would run in a box store! Some even install the fence.
maybe you could locate someone your way and do it up right the first time.

If you just want to keep the nieghbors animals out I would run a strand of wire and put some juice to it.

and if its the nieghbors you want to keep out just post the posts with some signs.

I wouldnt through good money after bad. like some of the others pointed out
it would be a better use of time and funds and do it right the first time or wait till you can do it proper as there is no actual need for the fence as of yet.

[MoonRiver]

Thanks for the ideas. There are 2 bad areas that need to be repaired, so I will take care of that. I also have a short section of fence that serves no purpose, where I might be able to scrounge a few posts. So I think I will just fix at as the need arises. Too big a project for me to tackle alone and can't aford to pay someone else to do it.

I thinking that if I replace posts as needed and salvage the fencing, I can keep it looking OK for several more years. At that point, I will have a lot of the posts replaced.

[Beeman]

Learn how to build corners first, that's where the strength and life of a fence is. You can easily replace line posts in the future if the corners are strong.

Originally Posted by Beeman

Learn how to build corners first, that's where the strength and life of a fence is.

I haven't visited in a while, so I can't promise any answers. I'd visit the do it yourself . com forum to get more input. Plus, you can always Google.

[fordy]

.................Around here you can purchase welded pipe corners made from 3 inch pipe for about $75 ! Spend alittle extra on the corners and set them in concrete , then you can build a cheap....."Strong".....fence and you'll be well served down the road ! , fordy

[fishhead]

Crushed rock tamped down in layers around the post is a good way to secure posts and shouldn't make them rot like concrete because it won't hold moisture.

[J-jay]

I am from the south but we set the post in sand rock or sand. The concrete make them rot . REDO THE FENCE IN Hi Tensile, I have it and I have been happy with it.33acres of it. It has to be built with springs in the line. Jay from N.C.