Super 68 Hayliner

[Mark T]

I was able to fix the hay knotting problem I posted about earlier - a little lossening of the bill hook tension did the trick.

I still am getting banana bales.

Evidently you can make an adjustment with the chamber to eliminate this, but I do not have a manual to show me where to make the adjustment. Does anyone have a manual for the Super 68 hayliner who can look up/scan the image to show me what to do to make the adjustment?

[unioncreek]

You may want to try asking this question in the implement section at ytmag.com

Bob

[uncle Will in In.]

Screw the bale chamber tightener down on the loose side. You may need to loosen the tight side a little. <>UNK

[ksfarmer]

Originally Posted by uncle Will in In.

Screw the bale chamber tightener down on the loose side. You may need to loosen the tight side a little. <>UNK

[Ross]

Check that the hay dogs just in front of the knotters are able to go all the way down and the hold down springs are not broken. Equalizing the tension screws on both sides then even tigtening or lossening to suit the baler might help too. If nothing else works you should be able to add wedges to the loose side of the chamber (dealer part) to adjust the chamber.

[Old Vet]

If you need a manual go to http://www.ssbtractor.com/tractors.cgi?m=new_holland and look for the manual.

[haypoint]

I think there are aluminum "fingers" that pull the hay into the bale chamber. If the baler is pulling less hay into the bottom of the chamber, the bale will bend. The aluminum can wear short. See if there is an adjustment or think about replacing these fingers.

[rambler]

Does the 68 have the chain driven arm that pulls hay into the chamber; or the wooden wad board? Not sure, you ar emear the break on this, total diffent design....

The chain driven arm, you need to adjust the little pegs that are on the arm that sweep the hay to the chamber, so they throw the hay far enough into the chamber. The closest set of pegs is often aluminum - it can get mashed if your timing is off - and the rear set of pegs is spring loaded. Middle set is solid. Anyhow on my little newer model. If these pegs are not set right, or _any_ missing, then your bale chamber won't fill right & the bales come out mis-shaped. If you have the wad board, I'm no help to you.

The other fellas had some other reasons this could occur too.

I'd strongly recommend having an owners manual for a baler, combine, or planter. Some implements you can kinda figure out without, but these you _really_ need the manual. It's pretty easy to get one from a NH dealer, the NH web site, ebay, or any of the old farm manual sellers all over the internet. Should be the best $10-20 you spend on your baler. They are full of info which we can't always figure out on the fly on a web site.

--->Paul

[Bret4207]

Mine does the same thing, but I KNOW I have 1 missing aluminum finger and 1 of the 2 steel finger is gone. Despite that, if I drive so the hay is in the corner of the pickup closest to the tongue I get a nice square bale-mostly. It seems to like hay that is just a tiny bit greener than what I'd consider "perfect". Real dry hay just doesn't make a good tight bale. If the hay is so dry it sort of crumbles it won't make a good square bale. A little greener to where it still has strength if you twist it and if works good.

My barn is full of squares, time to get the round baler going.