Building chicken coop

[starjj]

Ok here is what is probably a stupid question so don't laugh

I am building a coop and it is pretty big 12X16 with 8 foot high walls. More like a min cabin lol.

We have the floor in and the frame up.

The question is do we put the outside siding on (OSB Plywood to be painted) first or do we build the trusses and put them up before we side it?

Does it make any difference?

[Fenrirwulf]

It doesn't make a difference whether you put the siding on first or the trusses up. If it were me, I would put the trusses up first because the siding will limit the space you have to move.

I may also suggest putting the siding on before you put up your walls on future small projects. It is an easy way to make sure your walls are square and saves you the hassle of having to hold up sheets of OSB while you try to nail them straight.

Good luck with it, and post pics when you are done. I love seeing other peoples' out buildings, but I may be weird.

[hotzcatz]

With a small building like that it is possible to frame up the walls and install the siding on them while they are flat then tip them up in place. The walls would probably be stiffer if the trusses were in place before putting the siding on. This is, of course, assuming you are doing stud wall type framing. There are several types of construction where the walls hold up the roof so they'd have to be done first, but generally in stud wall construction I think the trusses are usually put on before the siding.

[cowboy joe]

That's a good size coop. Typically, the rafters go up after the walls are framed and before the siding. I'm under the impression that this is framed wall (like a house) as opposed to post & beam (i.e pole barn)

I'm assuming that the rafters are across the 12' side (actually 13-14' with overhang). Are the rafters prebuilt? If so, one point to consider is how prebuilt rafters will be raised into place...they aren't heavy at this size but prebuilt rafters may rack / break at this length if not handled carefully. Think about how these will be raised and if installation will be easier if the walls are open as opposed to closed. BTW, a tractor with a bucket is an easy way to lift prebuilt rafters into place as the rafter can be chained / strapped onto the bucket, then raised up before the tractor is driven close to the structure. Good luck to ya! Wish we were there to help.

[starjj]

Originally Posted by cowboy joe

That's a good size coop. Typically, the rafters go up after the walls are framed and before the siding. I'm under the impression that this is framed wall (like a house) as opposed to post & beam (i.e pole barn)

I'm assuming that the rafters are across the 12' side (actually 13-14' with overhang). Are the rafters prebuilt? If so, one point to consider is how prebuilt rafters will be raised into place...they aren't heavy at this size but prebuilt rafters may rack / break at this length if not handled carefully. Think about how these will be raised and if installation will be easier if the walls are open as opposed to closed. BTW, a tractor with a bucket is an easy way to lift prebuilt rafters into place as the rafter can be chained / strapped onto the bucket, then raised up before the tractor is driven close to the structure. Good luck to ya! Wish we were there to help.

It is a framed building. The rafters are not pre-built and yes they are going across the 12' side. I wish you were here to help also lol. Yes it is a VERY big coop lol my chickens will be spoiled

[just_sawing]

I build Coop for the public so here is my opinion
1 Install a rat wall first. This is at the ground level at least 6 " in the soil. Bring this wall up perferably 2 feet with 1' covered by the siding.
2 Come up on the inside with what ever contour you want but make sure the natural drainage isn't pooled against the wall
3 Install the OSB on the walls above where trusses will go
Trim flush to install the trusses so the the OSB is flush with the pearling if your going with Metal and againt the underlaiment is.
4 Install the trusses with no overhang.
5 Install a beater board on each side of the roof, (This is a 2X6 that you will attach 2X4s to cut in the angle to extend the roof 6 to 12 inches.) This makes the roof tight so no critters can get in and also makes it hard to chew through at the roof.
6. Build the door and sash with metal trim to keep critters from getting in.
7 Install Alumimium windows with rabbit wire over them enabling you to have ventalation but also keep the birds safe.
Thats what I do for the public.

[Beeman]

Just how big are your chickens?

[Windy in Kansas]

Whether you will be spoiling your chickens or not with plenty of square floor footage depends upon how many you have.

The one on the farm where I grew up was 2 rooms with each about 25' X 25'. We did keep well over 100 chickens however.

Actually there is a balance between not enough room and a room small enough so that the chickens benefit from their body heat in the winter.

Have you figured out ventilation yet so that the chickens will have fresh air instead of stale from manure?

[starjj]

Originally Posted by Windy in Kansas

Whether you will be spoiling your chickens or not with plenty of square floor footage depends upon how many you have.

The one on the farm where I grew up was 2 rooms with each about 25' X 25'. We did keep well over 100 chickens however.

Actually there is a balance between not enough room and a room small enough so that the chickens benefit from their body heat in the winter.

Have you figured out ventilation yet so that the chickens will have fresh air instead of stale from manure?

Three windows Two acroos from each other for cross ventilation (one on front one on back) and one on side wall

I have 12 SLW and 10 bantams

[starjj]

Originally Posted by Beeman

Just how big are your chickens?

The SLW are 1/2 grown now as are the bantams

[starjj]

Originally Posted by just_sawing

I build Coop for the public so here is my opinion
1 Install a rat wall first. This is at the ground level at least 6 " in the soil. Bring this wall up perferably 2 feet with 1' covered by the siding.
2 Come up on the inside with what ever contour you want but make sure the natural drainage isn't pooled against the wall
3 Install the OSB on the walls above where trusses will go
Trim flush to install the trusses so the the OSB is flush with the pearling if your going with Metal and againt the underlaiment is.
4 Install the trusses with no overhang.
5 Install a beater board on each side of the roof, (This is a 2X6 that you will attach 2X4s to cut in the angle to extend the roof 6 to 12 inches.) This makes the roof tight so no critters can get in and also makes it hard to chew through at the roof.
6. Build the door and sash with metal trim to keep critters from getting in.
7 Install Alumimium windows with rabbit wire over them enabling you to have ventalation but also keep the birds safe.
Thats what I do for the public.

Very nice I don't think mine is going to be a predator proof as you build

[Beeman]

I was making a joke..why would a chicken need 8' high walls?

[starjj]

LOL Beeman I get it now

Answer is they don't need them at all.

I am sure I will find a use for the extra space

[Beeman]

Most people build people coops for chickens. My coop has 2 levels and the building part is chicken height with a peaked roof. Only need to get completely inside is to do yearly cleaning. All the rest can be cleaned from the doors and eggs gathered from the access door at the nest boxes. Much less material and twice the protected space in the same footprint.

[ElectricVette]

FWI - I recently built a 8x12 chicken coop with standard framing. I put the wall sheaving on first prior to the trusses. I don't think it really matters which is first. I had the sheaving available to the trusses ( a friend built them for me).

[quietstar]

It might be good to remember that the weight of the roof framing and covering will be on the walls. Only you know how strong the walls are at this point. The advantage of installing plywood siding first is that it will true up wall framing and make the support for working from top plates while constructing the roof more secure...Glen

[cowcreekgeeks]

Originally Posted by Beeman

Most people build people coops for chickens. My coop has 2 levels and the building part is chicken height with a peaked roof. Only need to get completely inside is to do yearly cleaning. All the rest can be cleaned from the doors and eggs gathered from the access door at the nest boxes. Much less material and twice the protected space in the same footprint.

Can you post a pic? Sounds interesting.

[ET1 SS]

Some good advice here.

A 12 by 16 coop, is a reasonable coop.

Our chicken coop is 40 foot by 15 foot. We began to have issues with the snow load this last winter though. So I am now replacing it with six smaller coops, each 10' by 8'.

We also want to keep each breed of chicken separate for breeding stock.

You will do fine.

[7thswan]

Put my chicken coop on the back of my greenhouse. The sideing and roof went on last,because of weight. I work by myself. It is only as tall as me, small so they can stay warm in our winter. Planning on another one right now, for a little flock of Silkies. Here metal roofing is nice fo the snow issues.

[Beeman]

Originally Posted by cowcreekgeeks

Can you post a pic? Sounds interesting.

Sorry, old junk computer so I can't post pics. It's basically a small house on stilts. The floor has a trap door which allows the chickens access below. The legs are 2-3 ft. long as it's on a hill and underneath is covered with welded wire which is buried and lined with rock to predator proof. The house is high enough so a wheel barrow will allow me to rake the litter right into it. Peak is tall enough so I can get in there if necessary. Basically post and frame construction.