You are Unregistered, please register to use all of the features of Homesteading Today!    
Homesteading Forum

Go Back   Homesteading Forum > General Homesteading Forums > Homesteading Questions

LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Old 06/16/09, 11:21 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: B.C.
Posts: 386
Metal roofing, 26 or 29 gauge?

My kit home comes with 26 gauge, but I hear it dings and bends possibly leaving permanant marks.

Will 29 gauge be significantly better? It's an EXTRA $1600.

It's windy here, heavy snow in winter, and the roof will have several gables, so it does require a pro to put up.

Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 12:17 AM
glazed's Avatar
Tough Girl, Be Gentle
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: The Lone Star State
Posts: 3,486
I thought the smaller the number the thicker it is ... so isn't 29 thinner than 26?

It is quite possible I have no idea what I am talking about ... hopefully someone will come along and answer your question correctly and with expertise

i dont like to think tooo much before i speak ... heehee ... i like to be just as surprised as you are.
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 01:24 AM
Join Date: May 2006
Location: north central wv
Posts: 2,321
I also was taught that the lower the number the thicker the medal. They might use a different way in roofing. Sam
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 02:52 AM
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 8,107
I think you got the numbers backwards. But yes, the thicker stuff is better.

These things can be deciving tho, I would really look into it. Some manufaturers count the coating (galvanized or alumaclad or whatever zinc/paint coating is put on) and some do not. If you compare different suppliers, be sure each is using the _same_ terms.

It is easy for me to spend your money, but, the thin stuff is for a developer to build with & pawn the cheap house off onto someone else; the thicker stuff is for a homeowner to put on & live there all his life with a good roof.

Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 07:33 AM
In Remembrance
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: South Central Kansas
Posts: 11,076
Seems I have some foggy notion that I have read some roofing metals are heat treated to add strength.

Anyone know about that?
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 07:55 AM
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: tn at last
Posts: 455
Check and see if they are saying gauge or .029 or .026 a point 029 is thicker than a .026. But a 26 gauge is thicker than a 29 gauge. The most important part of the metal roof is the seams and fasteners. Because of hot and cold the metal will tear elongated hole where ever you put a fastener. That being said a system with concealed fasteners is the best. Most likely yours is a nail on style. Have the manufacturer give you the wind rating for his roof material. Also instead of nails they make a screw with a rubber gasket on it that will last longer. I live in the northeast and deal with the same extremes you do so don't plan on your roof lasting longer than 10 years. As a way to cheat hopefully you are putting this on a ply wood base put a peal and stick ice barrior on at least the bottom 6 ft and felt the rest. It will give you added protection. But also at a cost.'Light colors move less than dark and make sure you get the bottom and top gaskets in right the first time. Do overs are a pain
Also the comment from above is correct it is 100k psi sheeting
Hope it helped
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 07:55 AM
HermitJohn's Avatar  
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 8,054
Anybody here remember the real early corrugated galvanized roofing. Used to be called corrugated iron. Havent seen any in years but it was very heavy gauge, must been like 16 gauge, maybe even heavier. There have been times I'd of loved to have been able to get some, not necessarily for roofing but for other uses. Use it for roofing and I would guess it would last 100 years especially if you tarred it after it started rusting. I've only seen it on some very old outbuildings.
"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy

"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 08:20 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
Posts: 9,103
..........I'm assuming your metal roofing will be attached to either plywood or a wood lath , any insulation installed between metal and it's supports will absorb the noise created when rain or hail hits the metal . Personally , I'd want some of that 1 inch thick styrofoam sheeting in 4 x 8 sheets installed between the metal and it's support . , fordy
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 09:13 AM
In Remembrance
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: South Central Kansas
Posts: 11,076
Better yet spray on foam insulation for sound deadening. Ever been in a farm shed when it is raining or hailing? WHAT? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!

Yep H.J. many of our old farmstead buildings had the heavy corrugated iron on them. Still a couple of them surviving. We had two barns--- called them the Horse Barn and the "Steel Barn".
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 12:27 PM
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,185
my roofer talked me into the cheaper one (must be all he stocks ) and we've been content BUT we have lot of attic between us and the roof.
Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/09, 12:39 PM
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 8,107
My grainery was built in 1909. The standing seam roof is still good. Not sure what gauge it is.... Been resprayed with aluma paint 3 times. Not to cover holes, but to keep the surface from rusting.

Some of the side tin (a brick pattern) is starting to rust through from the inside - where the mouse p accumulates....

Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:03 PM.