bushcutter suggestions

[gwithrow]

I would like to have some opinions on different brands of brush cutters, 'bush hogs'....mostly to be used for pasture management, cutting weeds and keeping grass in order...thanks

[rambler]

Yup, they work well for that.

Got an old beat up Ford one, might be as old as me. Knocks down the brush just fine.

New ones, they have light duty, or heavy duty, and anything from 4 foot wide to maybe 18 feet? Many different brands, if you compare be sure to compare apples to apples - same duty rating.

You really didn't offer much for what you have - tractor size, type? Pasture size?

So can't really offer much more than that. Be careful of tractors without live pto, you need a special over running coupler to use those safely with a brush hog.

--->Paul

[agmantoo]

Hardee, Bushhog, Rhino, Woods are all OK. Howse is junk! JD's have their share of problems.

[Harry Chickpea]

A neighbor just informed me of a couple of locals who were paralyzed by crud being tossed out of a bush hog back onto the tractor. If you use one, make a safety guard or screen.

[gwithrow]

small tractor with live pTO, I would say light to med duty....mostly just clearing weeds and keeping the grass from going to seed too early.....5 foot, around here the options seem to be King Kutter, Howse, Taylor-way....bush hog, woods though I hate to spend that much on a small cutter....thanks

[pinemead]

I have a walk-behind, an Outback Billy Goat. It's pretty awsome.

[WisJim]

I have a Howse on my Ford 9n, got it cheap from a friend. Have used it for over 10 years with no problems. It would be much nicer on a tractor with live power, but I do have an overriding clutch on the PTO so the mower can't drive the tractor. It works well for what I use it for, mowing between rows of trees or cutting weeds around a field or in a fence line. I will agree that the Howse seems to be at the lower end in quality, but it was cheap, and will last for decades.

[agmantoo]

Include the Taylor-way in my above list of good rotary cutters. Add the Bushhog Squealer model to the junk listing. Buy a unit at least wide enough to cut the tracks out of the tractor.

[Micheal]

Owned a "Bushhog" purchased in 1970, best darn thing I ever had for removing weeds, clearing small trees, wiping out fence lines, topping rocks, etc.
Well 2 years ago because of wear and tear, maybe some abuse on my part, I decided to buy a "new" bushhog. I was convenced by a dealer that what I needed was a bushhog "Squealer". "It's the same as what you had" so he said!
Worst piece of ahhh, - machinery - I've owned in ........ a long, long time.
Oh, don't get me wrong it will cut down tall grass, weeds, and trees of less than an inch in dia., but also shears pins like crazy when ever hitting hidden "things" or using it for anything "thicker".
Just putting this opinion out there so you're aware.
Side note: I'm not using that dealer any longer!

[Rowdy]

Howse is indeed cheap. Cheaply made, but cheap to buy. If you do not abuse it too much it will work okay for a long time, but it will look pretty bad after just a little amount of time. I find king kutter to be a little better, though still on the low end of things, but still way, way cheaper than Rhino, etc.

If you are just clearing weeds or clipping pastures, and are not doing a huge amount of acres each year, I think either King Kutter or Howse would be fine. Another decent option would be to find an used shredder through craigslist, the paper, auctions. They do not have to be pretty to work. Just be sure that it turns freely, doesn't seem to leak, and doesn't seem to be about to fall apart. Might also want to open the plug to look at the gear oil. Some people just pack them full of grease if they get a leak. It seems to work, but it would be nice to know before you buy the shredder.

If the shredder you buy does not have them, consider making some type of guard (like chains) to help catch flying stuff.

[agmantoo]

gwithrow,
Do "we" now own a tractor? : )

[gwithrow]

well we do! a neighbor had a small,no name 4x4 38hp number...used but not bad and the price was right...we decided to start with this, though of course you are correct, I am sure we will want a bigger one before long...however the loader has even impressed Bill with its usefulness...we filled holes today using the bucket to carry our sand around...would have been many heavy wheelbarrow loads....my guess is one season and we will be looking for a more permanent machine...but for now we need a bushog...to cut the long stuff down...I am going in the AM to look again at the Taylorway....it seems to be the best of the not heavy duty ones...we will get a 5' since that fits this little tractor, then when we upgrade we will sell the smaller tractor with it..you are also right about 'needing' the tractor...really I don't know how we have gotten along with out one til now...and I must say I think it is quite pleasant up there in that seat....

[Old Vet]

When I was young I used to build mowers. Most of them use a Borg warner gear box on them like the King Kuter. If the frame is good then they are good. Look for a Chanel iron or I beam on the sides and not just stamped metal. The ones with stamped metal look good but are the pits after you run over a tree. I have a King Kuter 5 foot on mine and have gone to the woods and cut a road with it. If you are going to be doing a lot of cutting get a skid plate for the tractor so that you don't run on a stump and hurt the tractor. Also look at the frame and see that it has angle iron to hold the frame together.

[HermitJohn]

First look for heavy duty gear box then look for heavy constructed frame. Then pull plug on gear box to make sure it has gear lube in it and not either running empty or some dim bulb stuffed it with grease. Grease is a poor substitute for properly replacing the bottom shaft seal. Dont believe me, try stuffing your car transmission full of grease and see how that works out. Also a stump jumper plate is nice, not only keeps shaft off rocks and stumps but helps keep wire and twine wrapping around shaft and ruining the shaft seal.... Always take time to remove anything that wraps around the shaft, it will ruin the seal not to mention greatly lessen cutting ability.

Friend bought one of those little squeeler brush hogs. I agree, worst piece of junk I ever saw. They named it right too, it really squeels alot. Notice the mini gear box and light duty construction. Oh and it goes through shear pins like nobodies business. Just turn on pto at anything than tractor running slowest idle you can manage and you will shear a pin. Told my friend if it were mine, I'd weld it and forget the stupid shear pins and if gear box went to gear box heaven so much the better.

Still see some of those old cutters with pto shaft rotating a tire on a wheel and tire driving the blades. Cant remember the brand name. Heavy duty things and never found one go cheap though I looked. Even ones that looked like they'd been through several WWII battles brought the money. Figure thats as close to a lifetime cutter as you are going to get.

[texican]

The best one is one that's already paid for.

I agree with the need for a shield.... if your bushhogging strange land... you never know what's been thrown out on the ground. I've never had problems, but then I only cut on my own place.

If you buy 'new'... make sure that 'you' put grease in all the fittings. My BIL bought a new one last year, and trusted the folks he bought it from... lucky he's a mechanic... he got to tear it down and rebuild it, after a couple hours of usage (dry fittings don't last long).

[agmantoo]

The Taylorway will do you a good job. Ask the salesman if your tractor could handle a 6 foot. If the machine sticks out passed the tire you can mow closer to a fence without getting hung up in the fence. When you buy a piece of Ag equipment ask that a statement be added to the receipt that if you do not like the performance of the machine when you first try it at your place on your tractor can you return it for a full refund. If he is a reputable dealer he will agree to the conditions. I always ask this question, I had to return one piece but it was nice knowing that I was not going to have an argument.

[Bearfootfarm]

Unless youre in a big hurry to get one, you may be able to find a good deal in the classifieds here:


http://www.agr.state.nc.us/paffairs/AgReview/index.htm

[Old Vet]

Another good place to get one is at auction. You can't return one but if you pay about half price you can get one that you like.Price everything before you go and only pay about half the price or less because it will be used.

[agmantoo]

Personally, I do most of my equipment shopping in the used equipment offerings. However, I will not buy a used rotary cutter if I cannot operate it first. people abuse these machines badly. Having a bad seal is a repair that is beyond the tools and the ability on many. A bent stump jumper/shaft and repair will exceed the used price you paid. Just a bent PTO shaft can be a couple of hundred dollars. Looks do not necessarily reflect condition as there can be gearbox damage. In buying a used rotary cutter it is a buyer beware situation. If you buy even a new one that has been in the weather and if it has a slip clutch unbolt the clutch and let it slip enough to remove the rust and retighten otherwise it will nit work when the need may arise. Gwithrow, since this is your first rotary cutter let me give you a heads up suggestion, make darn certain the PTO shaft of the rotary cutter is all the way on the tractor PTO to where the unit cannot be pulled off. Run the tractor to where the PTO is always running at 540 RPM. If the tractor travel speed is too slow or too fast change gears in the tractor but leave the tractor engine running to drive the rotary cutter at 540 RPM. From time to time sharpen the blades to where the pasture grass always has the ends cut clean to prevent the grass from turning brown on the ends. When you wear the blades excessively keep them and have them a a blunt set of blades. If you have small woody sprouts that you want rid of put the blunt edge blades on and beat the sprouts off. This is damage the bark down toward the roots and the sprout will die. A clean, cut off sprout will respond as if you had just pruned it and will regrow.