Compact tractor advice?

[Willowdale]

Folks, I could use some advice choosing a used tractor for my small homestead.

This is for the 3 acres right around my home, which is presently in grass but will be planted with orchard and garden over time.

Terrain is flat and without rocks

Surfaces are grass, mud fairly often, a clamshell drive, some light forest and underbrush

My primary needs are

1. mowing (as I plant more orchard and garden the need to mow will decrease, but for now I've got 3 acres of rye grass with some fragmites grass I need to keep from self-seeding)

2. moving stuff around (lifting it and pushing it): construction debris, piles of brush and dirt, construction materials, manure, shell

[If I need something heavier duty from time to time like an excavator a neighbor would help with that, so I do not need to purchase for the twice a year or just in case scenario]

I want safety features if possible, like roll-over protection or one of those sensors that stops if the driver leaves the seat

I don't need a cab, air conditioning, or anything fancy like that

I'll be able to keep it in a closed garage (my 8'x40' shipping container)

What brands/models should I look at? What should I avoid? Any specific suggestions are appreciated. This is a serious farming community so there's a good selection of used tractors on craigslist all the time.

[Willowdale]

p.s. I said compact tractor but I might mean garden tractor. I'm a complete tractor novice so I'm starting from scratch!

[Ramblin Wreck]

I've had good luck with Massey's, Ford's, Deere's and Kubota's, but the Kubota has been the most trouble free. If you have some muck/mud, 4x4 is a nice option. Since you are moving/pushing some stuff, it sounds like you will need a loader. You are wise to want a ROPS. In the small community I grew up in, two men died and another was injured by rolling tractors...and it was a very, very small community and the men were experienced operators.

The link below is for a tractor currently up for bid on e-bay. It might give you some food for thought as you begin the search for your tractor. Best wishes that you find the unit that works for you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KUBOTA-L2850-4X4...3A1%7C294%3A50

[rambler]

Often folks look too small, but in your case, a very small compact might be just right.

Do you want a loader or not? They are very helpful. But it is up to you. Loaders and you want 4wd on these little things.

If no loader, a good stout graden tractor could do it; but you will spend about the same for either a compact or garden tractor that is good enough, so little difference, myself I like tractors.

Something in the 16-20 hp range could work out for you, I should think. Bigger is nicer, but do you need to fit through narrow rows of trees, or??? Then you don't want to get too big.

You are right on that in between size, garden or small compact.....

Tractors made in Japan are very good. New Holland, Kubota, Case, John Deere. Look for a dealer near you that is good, and sit on them & see what fits you. All these are similar in value & use - comes down to Chevy vs Ford, they are kinda all the same. Your best value might be to buy a good used one of these, as there are parts, dealers, and support on a good machine that is well made. If you want used.

Tractors made in India or Korea are a little cheaper, but pretty good. Not quite as nice as above, but - good value. These brands tend to change names, and far less dealers, less parts around.

Grey-market tractors are used Kubota or Yanmar machines made for sale in Japan, but shipped to USA as used machines. Typically they are well made, but are _not_ supported buy USA dealers, and will be marked in Japaneese, and are used. They do not have the safety standards USA-sold tractors have. They can be a good deal, but recognise the difference beween a used grey market tractor, and a used American market tractor.

Then there are China-made tractors. There are sorta 3 tractor making companies in China, and they sell them as partially assembled, packed in containers, and sold to whomever wants containers full of them.

So very many China-made tractors are appearing all over, with 100's of 'brand' names, but only the hoods and names are different. They are poor quality, with lots of leaks & poor castings and not very comfortable. They are cheap, and for a reason. I've sat on a few, and looks like I would break off any lever or pedal, looks just poorly made.

Don't think I answered your question, but maybe something to start from & look for different directions you want to go?

--->Paul

[Old Vet]

I started out with a garden tractor then I got a compact tractor and now I have a 50 hp tractor. Each one is a big jump in what I can do. i would look around and find a dealer that has parts and a service center. Any tractor will need to be worked on from time to time. Having a dealer that has parts and a service center will be a deal breaker for me over one that I have to be repairing it my self all the time and getting parts is another problem. All of the newer tractors have the safety features you are looking for. Just about all the manufactures have a compact tractor. Get one above 30 hp and it will do everything you want to do. I started too small and have gone to a larger size each time. Learn from my mistakes.

[hunter63]

Originally Posted by Old Vet

I started out with a garden tractor then I got a compact tractor and now I have a 50 hp tractor. Each one is a big jump in what I can do. i would look around and find a dealer that has parts and a service center. Any tractor will need to be worked on from time to time. Having a dealer that has parts and a service center will be a deal breaker for me over one that I have to be repairing it my self all the time and getting parts is another problem. All of the newer tractors have the safety features you are looking for. Just about all the manufactures have a compact tractor. Get one above 30 hp and it will do everything you want to do. I started too small and have gone to a larger size each time. Learn from my mistakes.

Good advice especially the "Dealer service and parts" part.

After a lot of shopping, ended up with a Mahindra, from a local JD dealer, made in India, shares 60% parts with the 30 hp JD.
About $3000 less than a like equipped Kubota, and they delivered it.

[Old Vet]

It doesn't matter what brand of tractor you have. Most of them are good. It is the dealer and service center that keeps it ruining. There is nothing like havening a tractor that doesn't work no matter how much you saved on the purchase price.

[Willowdale]

I'm in the $3000 price range on craigslist, and so I'm finding very old tractors (many decades old) in the classic names (Masseys and Fords), described as being updated and maintained and running well, which don't have roll bars, and then a bunch of lawn tractors (also don't have roll bars).

If I go the vintage tractor route, I'm assuming repairs on a 50 year old tractor aren't provided by the dealer, right? So I'm looking for a freelance tractor mechanic like the guy who works on my farm truck out of his shed?

[sammyd]

dealers will work on old iron. But you may find a better deal on labor with a shadetree wrench.

[rambler]

Yea, the dealers will work on your 50 year old tractor.

A neighborhood fixer guy might give you a much better labor price tho.

If you are in that low of a budget and tractors older than 1965 or so, then you will need to know what live pto, live hydraulics, and what gear speeds you need to make the things you want work. For example a tiller is not much fun to use without live pto, and it is very hard to use at all with a tractor with only 3 or 4 speeds. And so forth. A lot of the better features started coming out in 1955 or so, but often as options, not one every tractor.....

--->Paul

[ErinP]

you'll also find that because they're older and much simpler, you might be able to do you own tinkering.
I know junior high kids that work on old tractors...

[highlands]

I have a John Deere 4700 (48hp) with bucket loader, backhoe and a few other implements. Those first two are what I use most. Forks are next. I like it. I've only broken it in half twice:

http://sugarmtnfarm.com/blog/2006/11...ls-rising.html

When I bought it they told me it was made in USA. Reality check: the engine is from Japan as well as other parts like the transmission casing which has needed replacing twice - first time under warrantee due to flaw in the metal. Second time from astroid strike from below (must have come up from China - okay, I rolled over a rock. )

Any smaller would be too small for us. Any bigger would be a bother to turn around in tight spaces. I like the size. Figure out what works for you.

It is worth having a dealer nearby if you don't know how to do all the work on the vehicle. Learn gradually to do what it needs. Keep it in top condition. They last a long time. Keep it covered and studies show you get 7 more years life on average. Rule of equipment: it will break when you most need it. Ergo, keep it in top condition.

Get fluid in the wheels.

I have heavy duty chains and leave them on all year - no pavement here.

Get fluid in the wheels.

I have the rear wheels set out to the full 8' for stability as we're on a mountain.

Get fluid in the wheels.

I like the hydrostatic transmission - it does take a few HP off (3?) but is wonderful when doing plowing, bucket work, etc.

Get fluid in the wheels.

Weld hooks onto the buckets for chains - great for moving, lifting and pulling:

http://sugarmtnfarm.com/blog/2006/06...-1-bucket.html

That makes moving big bales of hay (cheaper than small) around very easy:

http://sugarmtnfarm.com/blog/2006/12...ering-hay.html

Oh, did I mention, get fluid in the wheels? For extra weight.

Lastly, work slowly and carefully. You're only an instant away from an accident with heavy equipment.

Cheers

-Walter
Sugar Mountain Farm
in the mountains of Vermont
http://SugarMtnFarm.com/blog/
http://HollyGraphicArt.com/
http://NoNAIS.org

[Stephen in SOKY]

You're obviously serious about gardening. I'd look for narrow wheel spacings & narrow rear wheels rather than wide for gardening/orchard work. My 50 hp JD is far too wide for effective gardening. As noted above, live PTO & live hydraulics are generally considered mandatory for a daily use tractor. True 3 point hitch will make your search for implements much easier & less expensive.

[Old Vet]

I payed $7000 for my Massey Ferguson 150 (50 HP). It has all the features you wanted except for the sensor in the seat that will kill the engine when you get out of it. It has a ROPES system and you can get a a front end loader for it. It has power steering live PTO and Hydraulics and a 3 point hitch.

[Jolly]

If looking used, think Kubota or John Deere, if looking at recent vintage stuff. Lots of dealers, lots of parts.

The forums at tractorbynet are a good resource for small tractor buyers...

[Willowdale]

Folks, this is excellent information and a great start for me to try to sort out what my options are and what I need to consider. I'm going to spend some time on the tractorbynet and continue to educate myself. Thanks!

[Gary in ohio]

Your 3 acres will get pretty small when you start putting tree's in. Have a big bulky tractor around tree's is not good. ROP will just snag on branches. You basicly have your run of the mill lawn tractor, it will mow and small trailer towing but not much else. Your garden tractor will allow ground engaging devices and is a bit larger will tow more than your lawn tractor. JD and kubota both have a supersized garden tractor they call a subcompact. this is where you start to see front end loaders and 3pt devices. rather new and not much on the used market. Compacts run in size from 15 to 30hp and have lots of "farm" tractor functions in a smaller size. For 3 acres this might be a bit big.

From a NEW price stand point $1000-3000 for a lawn, $3000-$8000 for a garden, $7000-$12K for a subcompact and $10K plus for a compact.

You might also consider 2 items. A mower for the grass work and a older larger tractor for you moving and hauling work.

[foxtrapper]

A lot depends on how much you want to move in one scoop, and how hard you want to push. Same wit hteh mowing and such.

A tractor, even a small tractor, with a mower deck on back is a darn awkward tool. Put a bucket on the front, and you can barely manuever it around, let alone mow nicely.

I've lived with old machines, and new machines. I'd strongly suggest going new. You don't want a non-live pto, non-live hydraulics, etc. Get as much modern goodies as you can afford. I have never used a machine that I've fussed at being too good, but I've sure groused over them being quite bad.

Kubota's are plated with gold, or at least the sellers think so. Same with anything green, particularly JD green. But a Yanmar is a darn good machine, and pretty worthless. I'd be awful inclined to be looking in this category. Similar White, Massey, and a few others.

Do get live pto, live hydraulics, locking differential. I'd strongly suggest getting one with a bucket up front. I'd suggest 4wd, but that may not be so important for you.

[OJ Rallye]

We have 3 acres and a Kubota like this one on ebay:
Item number: 120387863831

I've been using and abusing it since the mid 80s.

The hydro static is better for snow and smaller areas. Ours has AG tires. With a loader, mount the front tires backwards.

You really need 4x4 on a small tractor with a loader.

Don't use it for digging out good sized stumps or huge rocks from the fenceline.

Don't loan it out! Mine came back with cracks, lots of loose stuff on the tractor and the flail mower. He ran the mower with the PTO in high speed.

[ET1 SS]

I bought a Massey Ferguson a few months ago.

I like it.

Front loader and backhoe [I know that you don't want a backhoe], it would take a mower deck, or a rototiller.

I liked them mostly because they have 0% financing for 72 months.

We shopped Bobcat, Cat, JD, Kubota, IH, but nobody else could match the price and financing.

Good luck