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  #1  
Old 02/27/09, 10:58 AM
Hired Hand
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Rodent control question

The four legged rodents have made a mess of the greenhouse. Seems they've figured out how to avoid the traps. Think they might be paying off the cat too.

Is there such a thing as a better mouse trap? How about the ultrasonic models? Do they work? I'm using the run of the mill spring traps right now. Even tried burying them with a piece of peanut butter cracker on the top which usually works.
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  #2  
Old 02/27/09, 11:13 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
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Get a Jack Russell! We kept having problems with rats also, the barn cats just could not keep up or kill enough of the vermin. So I did some research and got us a jack russell. Boy does she keep their numbers down! we named her RK( stands for rat kill) Decon!
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  #3  
Old 02/27/09, 11:57 AM
Defending the Highground
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 580
Don't bother with the ultrasonic devices. I've had one plugged in for the past 1 1/2 years and we STILL have mice...(well, we did until we got a new garage door last month! ) Up until that time, I just couldn't figure out where they were coming in. Now that the new door is in place, the rodent problem is no more.

If you can figure out where they're coming in, prevention is still going to be your best bet. Other than that, if you're adverse to d-con, and spring traps aren't working, you may want to try glue boards. Personally, I don't care for the glue boards, but if they're avoiding the spring traps and paying off the cat, you may not have a choice.

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  #4  
Old 02/27/09, 11:57 AM
Alice In TX/MO's Avatar
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Just One Bite - it's like a small corn colored brick of poison. Takes care of those pesky varmints.
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  #5  
Old 02/27/09, 12:25 PM
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Location: S. Louisiana
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The electronic device didn't work at my place either. I got a murderous cat from another neighborhood, where his vermin score was considered a disgrace. He's a hero at my place! 3/day, minimum, when necessary!!!ldc
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  #6  
Old 02/27/09, 12:40 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: way back in the woods, up on a mountain, in wonderful WV
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Though I hate using it, poison is very effective for a quick knockdown of a large population. Of course it may be a problem to use if you have younguns or animals that might get into it or eat the dead/dying rodents.

This time of year is a good time to use poison if your going to. If the critters die in the walls, instead of decomposing quickly and causing odor problems, they will kind of desicate from the cold, dry air.

Once you make the initial knockdown, traps will be more effective at continued control. Also, move the traps around occasionally and change between a couple of baits (peanut butter and cheese are usually good). I know of no scientific evidence to prove it but I think the little buggers learn what the traps are and avoid them if they're in the same spot all the time.
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  #7  
Old 02/27/09, 01:12 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Missouri
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We had a rat problem in our hen house 10 years ago and we adopted an adult rat terrier from the humane society and she immediately set to work killing off all the rodents she could find. After the rats were gone, she started on the mice and voles. She hasn't caught a squirrel or a rabbit yet, but not for lack of trying!

Now she's around 12-13 years old and slowing down, so last year we got a rat terrier puppy. She's now 8 months old and turning into an avid hunter like her mentor. I'll always keep a rat terrier from now on. They are great dogs and awesome hunters. Just make sure you find out how big the parents are before you get a puppy- there are an awful lot of people breeding minis out there. I don't think a 10-12 lb dog could take on a rat. Our two rat terriers are around 25-30 lbs right now. Our younger one is a high percentage of "Decker" rat terrier, which is supposed to be the best multipurpose hunting dog there is. We don't hunt with dogs, so we've never seen that side of her, but the breeding is there.

Rat terriers are great, and love to kill rodents. There just isn't a better way to keep rodent populations in check.
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  #8  
Old 02/27/09, 09:11 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
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As RVcook said, prevention is best, though few people are interested in it. Seems it's just more fun to feed and house the mice, then figure out a way to get rid of them.

Try and eliminate any hiding places outside if possible, like piles of brush, etc. Then get a mouse proof door. A mouse can get through a dime-size hole. Then eliminate any food source or hiding places inside. Get clutter off the ground and up high. Food in mouseproof containers.

As a backup, you can set traps. Mice tend to feel their way along walls as their eyesight is poor. Place traps along the wall. I get good Victor brand traps and bend the catch over (where the little rod is held) so it is very sensitive to go off. I'll put cotton in the curl on the trip part, and put peanut butter on the cotton. Makes it alittle harder to get off so they pull more on the trap.
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  #9  
Old 02/27/09, 10:01 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: way back in the woods, up on a mountain, in wonderful WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ in WA View Post
As RVcook said, prevention is best, though few people are interested in it. Seems it's just more fun to feed and house the mice, then figure out a way to get rid of them.

Try and eliminate any hiding places outside if possible, like piles of brush, etc. Then get a mouse proof door.
Just curious but would you happen to live in a newer home that is not a farm???
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  #10  
Old 02/27/09, 10:37 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 600
Homesteadforty, I was thinking the same thing when I read the post...mouse proof door? The barn door is open...how's that going to stop the rodent from coming in?????

Hiding places? Who doesn't have a lumber pile or two? What about the hay bales? There is no way to not have feed available...and have livestock at the same time...am I suppose to buy metal cabinets to store 20 bags of feed? NOT!

So I think the best prevention is to have a few of what I call "working" cats as opposed to feral cats or pet cats. At times, the bait box needs to be utilized to knock down the population.

I say make sure there is a clear space all the way around the lumber pile so the cats can do their job....

I will lobby for the next dog to join the farm is a "working" breed such as rat terrier.
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  #11  
Old 02/27/09, 11:20 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
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"Of course it may be a problem to use if you have younguns or animals that might get into it or eat the dead/dying rodents."

Well you still dont want children or pets getting the bait but you can get a bait with a low risk of 'secondary poisoning" which means that if an animal (hawk, cat etc) eats a rodent that has eaten the poison they are unlikely to be harmed.
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  #12  
Old 02/28/09, 12:43 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado
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Make believe that you are not the cause of the rodent population, and you will need a good rodent protection including an animal force.

Alter how YOU provide habitat, food, and water, and you might be able to eliminate the problem without poisons or animals.

It is tough to make a barn door less than a 1/4 inch off the jam. Remove the rodent food storage from the barn. Place it where you control the rodent entry.

So the harvest must be stored. Store it high enough that the rodents cannot get to it. Since they can climb a table leg, wall, or post, this does require some effort. If you don't expend the effort, the rodent will.

Ultrasonic controls do not work. They are illegal in some states. If you believe they work, try to find a single professional who uses them.

It is good to have pets who assist in the rodent control. Don't put the responsibility of rodent control for your habits upon your pets. Change your behavior. It is not rocket science.
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  #13  
Old 02/28/09, 07:33 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: WV
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I hate the whole rat subject, BUT... when our traps weren't doing the job and we were having a lot of empty traps my husband "modified" his traps by just driving small nails up through the bottom of them (under the part that snaps on their necks). When it snaps down it knocks the nails into their neck and it hasn't failed yet! (I know its GROSS!) but its cheaper than baits or trying different things.
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  #14  
Old 02/28/09, 08:49 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Western North Carolina
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We had a mess of mice one year. We locked our cats in the barn for a week. We set out regular decon or tom cat type mice poison in all outbuilding with a plastic milk crate over them to keep larger animals out. We put poison under the house and in the attic. Then we waited, let them eat, and then let the cats back out. The mice ate up one whole set of poison and no more. We never did see any bodies but we also did not see any more mice.

Be sure to cover up the bait with something so other animals cannot get into it.

Good luck
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  #15  
Old 02/28/09, 10:51 AM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
There is, in fact A Better Mouse Trap. That is its official trademarked name. It is grey plastic, looks like an alligator clip, works very effectively, and it comes in rat size. Indefinitely reusable, doesn't splat the rodent but kills it just as effectively without the muss or goo. Available at your local hardware store probably.

Other than that, a rat terrier.
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  #16  
Old 03/02/09, 04:17 AM
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Nice & sunny this weekend so the cat spent the better part of each day patroling (does laying in the sun preaning herself count???) the greenhouse. She came up empty...I think I need a smarter cat or dumber chipmunks. I don't like using poisons but I think I've reached that point. Found two access holes. I'm going to bait them from the outside and see what happens. Kitty will be mad because I won't let her out until the problem is solved. Qvrfullmidwife you're right...thanks...don't want kitty dining on something that's been poisoned.
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