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  #1  
Old 02/24/09, 02:03 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Missouri, Springfield
Posts: 1,733
trailer question

Still looking at trailers and had a question or two

Is it worth getting brakes on both axles? We're talking an extra $150 here.

This will be my first trailer. will be pulled by a 3/4 ton pu.. not sure of the weight of the trailer (hasn't been built yet) but my hitch is a 6k

Most I can see me hauling is a 3500 tractor on it. The axels are rated at 5k each. (2 axles)

Will be getting a brake controller installed as well.


other question is about ramps. He says he can build it with ramps that fold up and are attached. or with removable ramps that store underneath (not slide outs unfortunatly). which would be better? I'm thinking the removables as I may be moving wider or narrower things.
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  #2  
Old 02/24/09, 02:20 PM
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GET BRAKES

I pull an enclosed dual axle box trailer.About 25,000 miles a year. And when you got that much weight and want to stop you'll be glad you did.
I have seen trailers with ramps that run the width of the trailer and and fold up to act like a tailgate. Lawn guys use them a lot to haul equipment around
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  #3  
Old 02/24/09, 02:28 PM
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Hi Pcdreams,

Here's a couple of ideas.

If you are going to do heavy hauling, having brakes on both axles wouldn't be a bad idea.

Is this going to be an equipment trailer or multi use? If equipment hauling is going to be the primary focus, I would recommend a dovetail with attached ramps. The ramps can slide in or out to facilitate differing axle widths and fold up on the dovetail for transport. If you are going to have a bolt on stock rack, the ramps could be made to be removed. Or they could be used for loading stock as well.

If you do go with the tandem brake system, I would be careful of hard braking when the trailer is empty. The brakes might lock up and make the trailer start to slide sideways..... Bad news.

Last edited by Cotton Picker; 02/24/09 at 03:08 PM.
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  #4  
Old 02/24/09, 02:42 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 8,289
Breaks arn't real important till you need them real bad Then you can't get enough .Hundred fifty now beats needing one more inch to stop later
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  #5  
Old 02/24/09, 04:02 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Missouri, Springfield
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it will be mostly used to make a 1500 mile move. Will have that tractor on it for one trip and then I plan to put sides on it to haul some things in the dry. in the future dont know. Probally tractor mostly.

I figured the brakes would be good thing but wanted to be sure it wasn't overkill

I wasn't aware that ramps could be adjustable like that. I'll have to see if these are.
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  #6  
Old 02/25/09, 08:23 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
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2 axle brakes would be better, not a necessity. I have a trailer I haul a 3k lb car on and it only has brakes on 1 axle, stops fine. Be sure to know if the brake controller on the truck can handle 2 axle brakes as some can't and you'll need to upgrade.
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  #7  
Old 02/25/09, 09:54 AM
fantasymaker's Avatar
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GET THE BRAKES.

I move trucks for a living and often have nearly 30,000 pounds on unbraked axles
Get the Brakes.
DONT GET THE DOVETAIL its a waste of space
Do get slide out ramps that slide out of the BACK
Spring a few bucks for the longer ones
Get wheels that are compatiable with the ones on your tow unit. Then one spare and lugnut wrench does for both
CHECK that they work on the trailer.
You are not far from Sikeston MO the trailer building center of the planet. You should be able to get a good deal on one you want from there and Local guys should be able to match it.If you do that its fair enough that the local guy charges extra what you could save on not making the trip.
BUT INSIST ON ONE THE WAY YOU WANT IT!

Last edited by fantasymaker; 02/25/09 at 10:04 AM.
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  #8  
Old 02/25/09, 10:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in the USSR
Posts: 9,961
If you're custom ordering you might want to consider getting an interchangeable coupler setup. You can adjust the height of the ball, lunette or clevis that you're using. That means you can easily tow the trailer with anything on or off road. I've got a 10,000 GVW trailer that I can pull with a tractor or a truck just by changing out the ball coupler for a clevis or vice versa. I can also tow the trailer with a truck set up with a pintle hitch just by changing to the lunette.
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  #9  
Old 02/25/09, 11:00 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
Posts: 8,749
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcdreams View Post
Still looking at trailers and had a question or two

Is it worth getting brakes on both axles? We're talking an extra $150 here.

This will be my first trailer. will be pulled by a 3/4 ton pu.. not sure of the weight of the trailer (hasn't been built yet) but my hitch is a 6k

Most I can see me hauling is a 3500 tractor on it. The axels are rated at 5k each. (2 axles)

Will be getting a brake controller installed as well.


other question is about ramps. He says he can build it with ramps that fold up and are attached. or with removable ramps that store underneath (not slide outs unfortunatly). which would be better? I'm thinking the removables as I may be moving wider or narrower things.
..................3500 pound axles have 5 studs per hub.....
..................5200 pound axles have 6 studs per hub.....
..................6,000 or 7,000 pound axles will have 8 studs per hub......
..................make sure that the trailer you are buying has ...6...studs per hub which requires a wheel with 6 holes . There is alot of ignorance related too this issue , and , some , trailer dealers will , very willingly sell you a tandem axle trailer with 3500 pound axles for the same price as a trailer with 5200 pound axles . It's not their job too educate you about the particulars of the differences twixt axles sizes and such . , lol , fordy
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