Cutting Railroad Ties

amelia · #1 01/30/09, 08:42 PM

Has anyone done this? I'm not big on chainsaws--actually have vowed never to use one. However I do have a Sawzall that I get along with quite nicely, and a less-friendly circular saw. I guess my big worry is that many RR ties I've seen have steel pieces embedded in them. Whatcha think?

Beeman · #2 01/30/09, 08:44 PM

Chainsaw material, steel is large S in the end to stop splitting. I wouldn't even attempt circular saw or sawzall.

chas · #3 01/30/09, 08:48 PM

I found cinders from the road bed and stones would dull a chain before I could get the first tie cut up!I'll never do it again.
Chas

amelia · #4 01/30/09, 08:50 PM

The Sawzall has a blade called a "demolition blade" which is supposed to cut right through metal. I was thinking maybe that. The blades are only a few bucks a piece, so I wouldn't worry about ruining them.

DaleK · #5 01/30/09, 08:53 PM

Sawzall is your best bet. I've done that and also with a chainsaw, chainsaw dulled a new chain to uselessness before I got through the first tie.

swamp man · #6 01/30/09, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chas

I found cinders from the road bed and stones would dull a chain before I could get the first tie cut up!I'll never do it again.
Chas

Knock 'em off before you cut it. My saw will zip through many a crosstie before the chain needs a touch up.

VarmitSniper · #7 01/30/09, 08:54 PM

Forget the circular saw, it will bog down and gum up from the creosote. Use the sawzall and a blade with aggressive teeth if you are absolutely against chainsaws. (I have used chainsaws on RR ties with great success in the past.)

Red Dog Farms · #8 01/30/09, 09:15 PM

Please use caution no matter which method you use to the cut the ties.

Persons cutting ties in the past without the proper protection, such as heavy long sleeved shirts, gloves, and face protection, have experienced chemical burns on exposed skin from the chemicals in the ties.

Bruenor · #9 01/30/09, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Dog Farms

Please use caution no matter which method you use to the cut the ties.

Persons cutting ties in the past without the proper protection, such as heavy long sleeved shirts, gloves, and face protection, have experienced chemical burns on exposed skin from the chemicals in the ties.

I'll agree with this. At the very least, I'd have heavy pants, long sleeve shirt, a high quality dust mask, and goggles.

artificer · #10 02/01/09, 08:51 PM

We were using some used ties for landscaping. Used the sawzall first. 1/2 hour for each cut. The blade was a 12" timber bi-metalic blade... about as good as it gets. Switched to an electric chainsaw. 45 seconds. No brainer for me. If you have to do more than a few cuts, get the cheapest electric chain saw you can find. Maybe second hand. Get a saw file to sharpen the blade when you hit rocks and stuff. Just go for it. Treat the saw as disposable. $50 for a couple of dozen cuts is cheap for me. We still have the saw, and its still going strong. I use this saw for timberframing and similar uses.

As for dulling the blade... CHECK THE WOOD. Don't intensionally cut through rocks. mark it, roll it to check for rocks, and remove them first.

Michael

sugarbush · #11 02/01/09, 08:57 PM

What are you using them for? For most aplications I can think of the best way to use a RR tie is to leave it at the RR yard and buy untreated timbers from your local portable sawmill operator.

RR ties are full of toxins and not even recomended for making raised garden beds anymore.

plowjockey · #12 02/01/09, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amelia

Has anyone done this? I'm not big on chainsaws--actually have vowed never to use one. However I do have a Sawzall that I get along with quite nicely, and a less-friendly circular saw. I guess my big worry is that many RR ties I've seen have steel pieces embedded in them. Whatcha think?

Why no chainsaw? A mis-placed running sawzall or circular saw blade, can ruin your day, just as quickly.

A chainsaw is one of my favorite power tools, provided it is running properly.

texican · #13 02/01/09, 09:56 PM

Why do you need to cut a cross tie?

Just dig your hole deeper... at least if you are sinking ties for uprights... I end up digging the hole, sink the tie, measure to see if the height is correct, dig a little more, till it's just right. Lot easier than cutting a tie.

I've sunken hundreds of ties, and can't recollect ever getting the chainsaw out to trim one.

rambler · #14 02/02/09, 01:50 AM

I'd do the chainsaw. I look for metal pretty carefully before cutting. Sounds like that is not a good path for you to go down....

In your case, the sawsall with a long average wood blade is probably the best bet. Get a good quality, not a cheapie blade. Actually get a couple - if you hit metal & wreck one, put in the next one.

Don't go with the finer teeth for metal cutting, they will take forever & gum up, won't be happy at all with how those work in a rr tie.

I'll repeat, buy quality blades, nothing from China, you'll waste more $$$ & time trying & failing to get those junk blades to work. Get good quality blades. I'm fine if you have a cheap throw-away saw - but put good blades in it. Well worth the money.

As mentioned, be safe.....

--->Paul

sugarbush · #15 02/02/09, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plowjockey

Why no chainsaw? A mis-placed running sawzall or circular saw blade, can ruin your day, just as quickly.

A chainsaw is one of my favorite power tools, provided it is running properly.

Other thing to consider is the chiansaw will throw big chips, so a lot less fine toxic dust to breath than the sawz all.

Not cutting them is your best option though.

amelia · #16 02/02/09, 07:39 AM

This is helpful information. Thanks, everyone.

I would be using the ties to replace some rotton ones that are holding back an embankment. I could go with landscape timbers, but it would require me to replace them all--not necessarily a bad idea, but not exactly what I had in mind for right now.

It sounds like a Sawzall is not really the tool for the job. I have never used a chainsaw, but their reputation for "jumping" has always scared me. With the possibility of hitting rocks and metal pieces, that seems like a reasonable fear, being that I'm 120 lbs. and no match for an out-of-control chainsaw. Maybe I should think about hiring out this part of the job to a 200-pounder. Ain't testosterone great?

sugarbush · #17 02/02/09, 07:47 AM

Can you pull out the bad ties and pour it back with concrete? Mixed at about a 2.5-3 slump you could shovel it into place, smooth it off and place a piece of plywood against it until it sets up.

canterin' · #18 02/02/09, 07:57 AM

If you must cut a RR tie, a chainsaw would be the most practical choice .If the RR tie appears to be clear of anything that might affect the chainsaw blade, like imbedded stone, metal, etc., just take your time making the cut. Make sure the blade is sharp. Usually, if you don't force the cut or bind the blade, the saw shouldn't kick back. No matter what, always use caution and protective clothing. Good luck and let us know how it turns out for you.

edcopp · #19 02/02/09, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amelia

This is helpful information. Thanks, everyone.

I would be using the ties to replace some rotton ones that are holding back an embankment. I could go with landscape timbers, but it would require me to replace them all--not necessarily a bad idea, but not exactly what I had in mind for right now.

It sounds like a Sawzall is not really the tool for the job. I have never used a chainsaw, but their reputation for "jumping" has always scared me. With the possibility of hitting rocks and metal pieces, that seems like a reasonable fear, being that I'm 120 lbs. and no match for an out-of-control chainsaw. Maybe I should think about hiring out this part of the job to a 200-pounder. Ain't testosterone great?

OR better yet get some instruction so that the chain saw will always be in your control. It can't do anything by itself. It is just a tool that you do not know how to use yet.

cfabe · #20 02/02/09, 09:26 AM

Chainsaws are not that hard to use safely, and you don't need to be a big strong man either. As far as kickback, the main reason for that is the tip of the bar contacting something and catching. Just watch where the tip is going and you will be fine, espicially doing something like cutting timbers which is a controlled environment (compared to limbing logs in the woods).