woodstoves with long burn time - Homesteading Today
Homesteading Today

Go Back   Homesteading Today > General Homesteading Forums > Homesteading Questions


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.
  #1  
Old 12/15/08, 07:52 AM
TexasArtist's Avatar  
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,693
woodstoves with long burn time

what wood stove out there have the longest burn time?? I'm thinking of replacing the one I have it just wasn't made for heating a house a long time. BRRRRRRR

__________________

Remember folks THANKSGIVING - it's the holiday to gobble till ya wobble!

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12/15/08, 08:01 AM
mtc mtc is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 398

I'm not sure I follow your question. Any woodstove IF it's rated to the size of the area you're trying to heat and IF you're feeding it properly, and IF you're not dealing with an uninsulated house whose walls tend to open to the outside when it gets windy (don't ask me how I know that), should keep you warm.

However, having said that, Vermont Castings makes nice stoves with catalytic converters that are a little more efficient in how they burn their wood. (you burn the partially combusted gases too.)

We have a parlor stove and it more than heats our two story house to a comfortable temp on most days. (Every so often we'll turn the circulating fan on to help the air flow, but that's about it.)

Maybe if you provided some more details it'd help with the advice people can give you?

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12/15/08, 08:07 AM
TexasArtist's Avatar  
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,693

I've got one of those little cheap chinese vogelzang things from tractor supply. The box is so small it's hard to keep the right amount of wood in it.

__________________

Remember folks THANKSGIVING - it's the holiday to gobble till ya wobble!

Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12/15/08, 08:12 AM
Cabin Fever's Avatar
NRA LifeMember since 1976
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Between Crosslake and Emily Minnesota
Posts: 13,423

The longest burn time will be from a true "air-tight" stove with the largest firebox. In other words, filling the firebox full of a large air-tight stove and turning the air controller to allow almost no air into the stove will give you a very, very long burn time while the firewood smoulders away. Of course, this "long burn time" will provide little heat and also create a ton of creosote in the chimney.

__________________
This is the government the Founding Fathers warned us about.....
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12/15/08, 08:26 AM
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: N.E.Washington
Posts: 311

We bought a Quadra-fire 4300 this year & I like it alot. Its a super efficient, clean burning stove. It will easily hold a fire for 10 hours with the draft shut down. Running it wide open I fill it up every 4 to 5 hours. Its rated to heat up to 2800 sq.ft.@ 70,000 BTU's. It has an efficiency rating of, up to 76.9% (which is excellent).

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12/15/08, 08:36 AM
Auric's Avatar
Registered Doofus
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 362

Check out Blaze King. They advertise a 40 hour burn time, but that's with a full firebox of about 90 pounds of oak. I wanted to get one of these this year, but they were back ordered and wouldn't have one until January. I settled for a Morso 3160, and am actually pretty happy with it. I can get the burn to last about 7 hours. If I fill the stove at about 11pm, I still have enough embers by 6am to get the fire going again; all without closing down the air intake!

__________________

veni, vidi, volgavi

Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12/15/08, 08:44 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: WI
Posts: 2,180

We bought a Char-Master "Chalet" a couple of years ago after doing lots of research on furnaces. We replaced an older woodburning furnace with it. We put wood in it 3 times a day in below zero weather, to keep the house at 68 to 70 degrees. I usually don't fill it as full as possible, unless we are going to be gone for more than 10 or 12 hours. We have an old 2 story farm house with a bit less than 2000sf total on both floors. It will still have a good bed of coals putting out lots of heat after 14 hours if I use good dry wood, even when it is 25 below, and I don't really know how long it would hold a fire if I worked at getting the maximum amount of wood in it.

edit to add link: http://www.charmaster.com/wood.html

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12/15/08, 09:28 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 488

My woodstove for the house is basically a peice of pipe (23") welded into a big box with a door at the end. The blower blows around the pipe and into the duct work. Will burn as long a 12 hours on a load. Generally I reload about every six.

The stove for the shop is made out of a 250 gal propane tank. It will go 4-6 hours on a load.
Both depend on the ind of wood your burning. I even burn sawdust in the shop stove and it will go for 3 hours. I just put a pipe in the middle and pack sawdust around it. Take the pipe out and light it off. Works great.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12/15/08, 09:30 AM
caberjim's Avatar
Stableboy III
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 426

The species and size of the wood your burning has a lot to do with the burn time.

__________________

Ultra Lord is not afraid of chickens!

Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12/15/08, 02:33 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 6,671

I have the mid size of the Vermont Castings stove described in the link below. With good wood (seasoned oak/hickory/maple), I have ample coals to quickly get a good fire going after eight hours. With less than optimal wood (poplar/gum), I can go six hours between loads. The larger stove in the link below is supposed to go 12 hours between loads. I usually leave the air supply open all the way to insure a complete burn and minimize the creosote accumulation. Plus, it provides incentive to get up in the morning to rekindle the fire...rather than lying around in the bed too long. Best wishes on finding a stove that works for you.

http://www.vermontcastings.com/conte...ils.cfm?id=311

__________________

"Luck is the residue of design" - Branch Rickey

Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 12/15/08, 02:49 PM
Defending the Highground
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 578

A friend of mine heats his entire 2100 sq. ft. 2-story home with an new Osborne after replacing a 20 year old buck stove. He absolutely loves it!

http://www.osburn-mfg.com/products.aspx?CategoId=1

RVcook

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12/15/08, 02:50 PM
Pouncer's Avatar  
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alaska
Posts: 1,918

I have a Blaze King Ultra, just installed this past summer. I love it, it burns well and holds great-easily over 12 hours. And that's with fairly green birch with a little spruce. It has a large firebox, and we got the circulating fans and I am glad we did. We have around 1800 sq. ft to heat on one level and at temps below zero we can do this easily with just using fans to draw colder air out of the rooms.

We check the pipe every three to four weeks and typically have only a cup or two soot that comes loose. And we only need to remove ashes maybe every ten days to two weeks, depending on how much spruce we use.

I am gone every day for nearly 12 hours, and I usually have a either a big bed of coals left, or even some log parts when I get home. I just move them flat into a bed, reload, and let 'er rip for a half hour-brings up the temperature quickly in my house.

__________________

A glimpse into my life and thoughts up here in Southcentral Alaska-visit my blog www.suvalley.blogspot.com

Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12/15/08, 03:43 PM
ericjeeper's Avatar  
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 940
Ok here we go..

To heat a house..Many different things come into play. It is called "heat loss" A structure is going to lose a certain amount of heat due to windows,doors and lack of insulation.So to heat a house you have to provide heat plus enough extra to account for the heat lost.
Many old homes require 100,000 btus per hour to heat.Ok in a pound of firewood there is roughly 6500 btus. It will take around 16 pounds of wood consumed to heat the house.Now to take in consideration inefficient woodstove. Maybe as low as 60-80% Meaning 40-20% of the heat went straight out the chimney.
So it is like Cabin fever says.. Long burn times are not what every home needs.
Someone mention 90 pounds of Oak lasting for 40 hours. well it produced 585,000 btus.. Not even considering what went up the flue. So in 40 hours it basically produced enough heat to heat most old farmhouses for about 6-8 hours. So at that 40 hour burn time.. Homeowner was likely cold.And the flue likely got a pretty good coating of creosote to boot..Seasoned wood will make creosote when smoldered over a long period of time.

I would recommend looking for an airtight stove,Still in production today,With as large of firebox as possible.
Oh and on cold nights. set your alarm clock for midway through the night.Wake up and go feed the Magic box, As it has magically made all the wood you put in it earlier disappear.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12/15/08, 04:00 PM
Spinner's Avatar  
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,658

There are so many variables that two people with the same stove can get much different burn times. Any air tight burner should give good results.

My new Heartwood is wonderful. The site says it has a 5 hour burn time, but I can put a few logs in at bedtime, and the house will still be comfy warm in the morning with a good bed of coals to toss in a couple more logs and have a roaring blaze in minutes. I get the longer burn time because I have a damper installed in the exhaust pipe.

About once a week I toss a handful of rock salt in when I have a thick bed of coals. The salt keeps the creosote burnt out so I don't have chimney fires.

__________________
.
.
Everybody has a plan.
Do you know yours?

Last edited by Spinner; 12/15/08 at 04:03 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12/15/08, 04:27 PM
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Illinois rather be back home in Kentucky.
Posts: 47

We have a Buck stove that is rated to heat 3200 sq ft.
It has a catalist and I get it hot enough to close the damper or ingage the catalist and shut it down about half way. holds a fire for 12 hours. With the blower on it heats our 2055 sq ft 1 level nicely. 22 degrees and windy today and had to open the window for a while. I agree with the others the wood you are burning makes a big difference on how long the fire lasts.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 12/15/08, 04:38 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 5,255
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericjeeper View Post
To heat a house..Many different things come into play. It is called "heat loss" A structure is going to lose a certain amount of heat due to windows,doors and lack of insulation.So to heat a house you have to provide heat plus enough extra to account for the heat lost.
Many old homes require 100,000 btus per hour to heat.Ok in a pound of firewood there is roughly 6500 btus. It will take around 16 pounds of wood consumed to heat the house.Now to take in consideration inefficient woodstove. Maybe as low as 60-80% Meaning 40-20% of the heat went straight out the chimney.
So it is like Cabin fever says.. Long burn times are not what every home needs.
Someone mention 90 pounds of Oak lasting for 40 hours. well it produced 585,000 btus.. Not even considering what went up the flue. So in 40 hours it basically produced enough heat to heat most old farmhouses for about 6-8 hours. So at that 40 hour burn time.. Homeowner was likely cold.And the flue likely got a pretty good coating of creosote to boot..Seasoned wood will make creosote when smoldered over a long period of time.

I would recommend looking for an airtight stove,Still in production today,With as large of firebox as possible.
Oh and on cold nights. set your alarm clock for midway through the night.Wake up and go feed the Magic box, As it has magically made all the wood you put in it earlier disappear.
I love your numbers.....

But you are double discounting the efficiency.

Wood has 8000 BTU's per pound. 100,000 thousand btu's per hour is absolutely mind blowing heat.



To the original poster...

We have a England stove works stove. They are sold by lowes and Home Depot. They are made in the USA, meet UL and EPA ratings. They are rather well built for the money.

Mine will heat for 9 hours with a full load burning bright (NO CREOSOTE).
keep coals for 14 hours or so total.
It's rated at 70,000 BTU's
The stove is the 30NCL rated AT 78%


If you wish to hear about stoves (more than one could possibly need) Go to www.hearth.com and check out the message board.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12/15/08, 06:29 PM
ericjeeper's Avatar  
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 940

[QUOTE=stanb999;3499717]I love your numbers.....

But you are double discounting the efficiency.

Wood has 8000 BTU's per pound. 100,000 thousand btu's per hour is absolutely mind blowing heat.
The numbers are just an example of how I see it working.. Maybe I am wrong.Wait, I can't be wrong, no one is wrong on the internet. LOL

Actually wood btus per hour run from 6500- 8000, all depending on whose numbers you believe,
You say 100k heat is mind blowing. Many homes have forced air gas/fuel oil furnaces that go way above 100k.
Around here here 125k and 150 are pretty common sizes.
My firebox will hold for 12 hours. But I also put a full wheel barrel load of dry seasoned hardwood in it too.But I am using one of the most inefficient forms of heating a house. an outdoor boiler.But I cut my own wood, have more than enough handy.And the mess is outside. I have thin blood so I like to keep the house warm..Heck my garage is 70.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12/15/08, 06:39 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 407

Blaze King

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12/15/08, 08:01 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 133
www.Hearth.com as mentioned above. I *think* they had a comparison page with several different manufacturers, stove models, prices, and btu output there, but it may be somewhere else.

Based in part on the feedback from hearth.com I purchased the largest Pacific Energy stove. I wanted a large plate steel stove and it was 800 dollars cheaper than the comparable sized Quadrafire and had the 3/8 inch thick top that was none of the competitors had.

I have a thermometer right on top of the stove just in front of the pipe. I can load it with oak or apple at 10 pm and still have coals and a 300 degree temp at 6 am when I get up for work.

I have to throttle the stove back most of the way during the day or it overheats.

My furnace doesn't kick on when the stove is going - even on COLD nights, and the house stays warm.

Supposedly the Englander stoves sold at the big box stores are a good value, good performing, and long lasting too.

Probably the largest contributor to long burn time is firebox size. There is no substitute for being able to put three extra 8 inch oak logs in for an all night fire.

The modern EPA approved stoves aren't truly airtight either - the airtight refers to the door, and the fact that the air entering the stove is routed so that it is preheated and burns with maximum efficiency. You can throttle them way back, but about 25% of the air opening will remain open on ALL modern EPA rated stoves. Some stove brands make it more convenient to modify the air inlet shutter than others. However, without draft, creosote formation becomes a REAL problem if you haven't burned all the volatiles out of the wood. This isn't something I have tried or recommend, just an interesting tidbit.

As I was doing research on stoves last year (when I bought mine) I came across several claims of fantastic burn times. I told you about my 8 hour burn time above - that leaves the stove hot enough to heat the house and be useful. I think most stoves are in this range - 8 or 10 hours, and claims of much longer burn times (24 or 36 hours) are based on the last glowing ember. I can rake way back in the ash after 24 hours and come up with a couple of glowing embers too, but at that point the outside of the stove was cool to the touch several hours ago and had ceased to be a useful heat source. The one possible exception to this is the Blaze King brand ... they make a stove with a much larger firebox than the 3 to 3.5 cubic foot max size that the other manufactures top out at.
__________________

Last edited by arbutus; 12/15/08 at 08:07 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12/15/08, 08:02 PM
wvstuck's Avatar
Mountaineers are free
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 941

Englander here, replaced an old Fisher with a new air tight stove from Lowe's $799 retail but the floor model was negotiated for $700 even.
http://summersheat.com/13-nc.html

I added a pipe (cast iron) damper, I can let air in and keep heat in at the same time. Plus a good brush down the pipe every 30 days or so takes care of any creosote.

I am heating 1800 sq feet with no problem. I use Oak, Hickory, Ash and Sycamore as my wood mix. I'm in my prep room and very comfortable in the coldest part of the house, looking at my wife in the living room sitting cozy on the couch knitting herself a new scarf and hat.

__________________

Last edited by wvstuck; 12/15/08 at 08:05 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:28 AM.