Stove Pipe Through Steel Roof

[ebook]

Okay, here is the situation. We have a brand new pole barn/house that we are going to heat with wood (new Lopi stove). The issue is the pipe going through the roof and not leaking. As you know a steel roof has ribs and the space between is smaller than the 8 inches we need for our pipe.

So, what do we need to do to make it water proof? And pictures or suggestions?

Thanks a ton!

[Ross]

They make flashing with the rib pattern cut out that will work with the Chimney/storm collar flashing. Add screws and silicone and you're done

[Wisconsin Ann]

We used a regular flashing/collar thing (sorry, Artificer isn't home and I can't remember the names of things) and a cathedral ceiling hanger inside. Caulk it WELL. Ours has withstood 35mph rain storm without a leak or a squeak. I like the idea of the rib pattern cut out...would have made mounting it a LOT easier.

[ebook]

I have never heard of that, and if the stores that I visited had it then they didn't know about it! But, I will look into that ... it sounds like something that would work. Becasue of the work we were doing on the house I had just decided to have the store that we bought the stove from do the installation, but they wouldn't do it when they heard about the steel roof...

[newman_maple]

I have a similar problem and I picked up a rubber high temperature pipe flashing. It is good to 460 degrees. With insulated double or triple wall pipe, this will work. The high temp flashing is red.

I cannot find a link to what I bought, but the closest thing I can find is:
http://www.itwbuildex.com/dektiteSqnEZiSeal.htm

I hope to put up my chimney in a couple weeks. Mine is for maple syruping so the temps are very high in the stovepipe, but not for many days a year.

[ebook]

That flexible flashing Dektite stuff that you linked to looks like it would do the trick, but it isn't rated as high as the 460 degree stuff that you mentioned. If you can think of the name for that I would love to know about it.

[BRYAN]

I paid my bills in college in a sheet metal shop and we addressed this in a couple ways. One was to make the base of the roof jack ribbed to match the roof, time consuming and requires a fair hand at sheet metal. Looks good and is weather tight if soldered at the joint between cone and base. An easier job is if the Jack is near the ridge (within a few feet) a base that lays on top of the ridges and slides under the ridge cap. If trimmed along outside and broke over the last ridge on each side it works well and doesn't look bad. Of course on can always go thru the sidewall then up. These sometimes have draft issues until they get hot, but it doesn't stop a lot of folks from doing it anyway. Wish I had pictures, it might help with my poor communication skills.

[mtman]

we jus put a pipe for our firplace through the rof on the house we are building it is a steel roof
they make an alloy flashing that is aasy to fom around he ribs with a rubber mallet it is a little pricey but it wont leak

[ebook]

How about this. It is called Master Flash and is rated up to 436ºF continious. Do you think that would work or has anyone see it before?

Thanks a ton!

[Beeman]

My metal chimneys thru a metal ribbed roof use high temperature boots that go around them and screw down to the metal roof. All of the vents on my roof have boots on them. The ones we used are made by Master Flash an Aztec Washer Company brand. The Chimney company offered them also and could be purchased thru Lowes, the ones I used came from the metal roofing distributor.