Anybody use a subsoiler/chiselplow?

Dirtslinger · #1 09/21/08, 07:45 PM

I'm trying to figure out the correct HP on a tractor. Likely the most difficult job it's going to get is subsoiling some very heavy wet clay/silt.
We'll need to go as deep as physically possible.

It's a tough one- but I'm sure 25HP won't do, but over 40HP they sure get expensive. But underpowered is my worst nightmare as well.

Any tips appreciated. Thanks!

Bearfootfarm · #2 09/21/08, 08:31 PM

Quote:

over 40HP they sure get expensive

Look for a good used diesel. I got a Massey Ferguson 175 63 hp for $5000, with some implements.

A general rule of thumb is 10 HP per chisel

#3 09/21/08, 09:00 PM

I have a Deere 1020, 40hp and using a subsoiler, hung a root. The tractor kept going. The subsoiler twisted badly. I'd think 40hp is plenty, based on that.

**Ross** · #4 09/21/08, 09:14 PM

We had a KV three shank sub soiler with auto reset. 65 hp would pull it sunk to China through damp clay loam soil. We still have a JD 22b sub soiler with a mole drain ball I think 40 hp would pull it fine if you have traction and th ground wasn't too dry.

Old Vet · #5 09/21/08, 09:20 PM

I have used a subsoiler and a chisle plow. The subsoiler had 3 teeth and I used a D-7 Cat to pull it at 36 inches depth. I also used a chisel plow and it had 8teeth and I used a John Deer 4840 (130 HP) to pull it with 16 inches depth. If you use a single plow you can pull it with a 40 HP tractor if you have water in the tires. John Deer made a single plow that used to be for a A model. It will pull it hard be sure it is albe to take a lot of punishment in the mentime.

Windy in Kansas · #6 09/21/08, 09:23 PM

A chisel plow and a subsoiler are two different implements but I believe from your post you are aware of that.

I have always heard for heavy clay you need around 50 horsepower per shank for a subsoiler. You need some speed to shatter the clay properly.

http://www.beavervalleysupply.com/sectionf/bisonss.htm
http://www.unverferth.com/literature/zonebuilderlit.pdf
http://www.kelleymfg.com/Tillage/Con...veler_gen2.htm

Since subsoiling isn't done but every few years perhaps hiring it done would be a better investment rather than a larger tractor.

I had one farmer advise me that if I ever had it done to make sure the ripping was either done on an angle or perpendicular to normal tillage. Seems he subsoiled in his normal line of travel and for some time thereafter he could get his tractor stuck because of a front wheel dropping into the trench of soft soaked clay since the clay base was no longer solid.

Old Vet · #7 09/21/08, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windy in Kansas

A chisel plow and a subsoiler are two different implements but I believe from your post you are aware of that.

I have always heard for heavy clay you need around 50 horsepower per shank for a subsoiler. You need some speed to shatter the clay properly.

http://www.beavervalleysupply.com/sectionf/bisonss.htm
http://www.unverferth.com/literature/zonebuilderlit.pdf
http://www.kelleymfg.com/Tillage/Con...veler_gen2.htm

Since subsoiling isn't done but every few years perhaps hiring it done would be a better investment rather than a larger tractor.

I had one farmer advise me that if I ever had it done to make sure the ripping was either done on an angle or perpendicular to normal tillage. Seems he subsoiled in his normal line of travel and for some time thereafter he could get his tractor stuck because of a front wheel dropping into the trench of soft soaked clay since the clay base was no longer solid.

That is corect never go the same way that you are going to travle the ground. It will be that way for a couple of years if you subsoil or around a year for chisle.

Dirtslinger · #8 09/21/08, 09:43 PM

Thanks it looks like 40HP+, and I have considered getting an older higher HP tractor, but around here service is an issue (trucking it 3-4 hours) and I'm no mechanic.

I've asked other farmers but everyone is always saying to call back in a couple months... It's been several years now.

Regarding riping perpendicular to regular tillage- good point! Thanks.

Dirtslinger · #9 09/21/08, 09:48 PM

Other questions about both jobs- can anyone briefly explain how to do it?
Do you begin at the ditch or area you want land drained to? (For me it's ditched all the way around)- that is begin 'in' the ditch and work your way to the center?
And do you start at say 12" and work your way down after several passes- or is it a one pass process?
How do you choose between subsoiling and chisel plowing?
Thanks again.

EDDIE BUCK · #10 09/21/08, 11:09 PM

Just my two cents. Around here theres heavy clay just below the topsoil.What ever I do,I'm not bringing that clay to the surface. Subsoiling is usuially deep enough the clay stays beneath the topsoil, but if I'm chisel plowing and I start seeing clay,I raise them a tad to leave that clay below the topsoil. I know where a five acre field that was very good land. They dug a deep ditch around it and spread that clay over that five acres. Ruined it.Now the only way to work it is wait till its dry enough but not too dry or wait till it has moisture but not too moist. If you go ahead and work it anyway, If its wet you will have clods as hard as a rock, or to dry and it rains its a concrete slab. That farm ditch was dug forty years ago and that clay is still there on the surface.
If the land stays wet long after a rain, I would subsoil it the same direction that the property drains. If it dosen't stay wet,I would chisel it the opposite direction that you will harrow it but it really dosen't matter,but I've always thought the opposite direction will help smooth the land.