Recomend a Felling Axe

[rwzzz]

Anyone know of an online source for a good felling axe? I seen prices from $168 for a swedish import to about $19. I do not want a "cheap" multi use axe but a servicable felling axe. I also don't want to over pay. This axe would be for a back up for a chainsaw if I ever had to clear the drive from fallen trees. Thanks for your input.
Bob Z
NE Pa

[DavidUnderwood]

An axe for $20-$30 will cut anything a $168 one will.

[Cabin Fever]

For felling, I prefer a double bit axe with a fiberglass handle.

[mwhit]

I've never fell a tree with an axe, but I do like the fiberglass handle on my new splitting maul.

[stranger]

Originally Posted by DavidUnderwood

An axe for $20-$30 will cut anything a $168 one will.

very true and i would ck out HD or Lowes

another great source is farm auctions, i have a few old axes pre WW2 that are real good steel

[DavidUnderwood]

Truely, I'd be more concerned with handle than steel.

[stranger]

Originally Posted by DavidUnderwood

Truely, I'd be more concerned with handle than steel.

most of my handles have been on over 15 yrs, it's when am amateur misses or the ax is dull that the handle gets abused.

[Bear]

Like Stranger said, check out farm auctions. You should be able to pick up a double bit axe cheap.

[Cabin Fever]

Originally Posted by stranger

most of my handles have been on over 15 yrs, it's when am amateur misses or the ax is dull that the handle gets abused.

Who you callin' an amateur!?!?!?!? Why them are fightin' werds!

My reason for liking fiberglass handles is that they don't swell and shrink like wood handles do. In other words, the bit stays solid on the handle. In my part of the country where we have hot summers and cold winters, and dry and humid weather, the bits on my wood handled axes are constantly getting loose. I don't have that problem with fiberglass handles.

[Cabin Fever]

rwzzz, those expensive Swedish axes you're talking about are a thing of beauty. I'm tempted to buy one of those just to hang it on the wall as a piece of art. Everyone knows that the Swedes make the best steel blades. Not only that, but the Swedes make the highest quality chainsaw on the market, too (Jonsered brand).

Gransfor Bruns double bit axe...about $200

[DutchAcres]

Anything will do.

In my opinion, the most important thing is keeping it razor sharp (sometimes the more expensive axes hold an edge longer), sizing the handle properly, and getting one the right weight for you.

For someone my size and strength, I recommend an axe head weighing around 3.5 pounds.

For me, anything lighter and I have to swing harder.

Anything heavier and I get worn out when felling & limbing over an afternoon.

I've felled elm, oak, cedar, maple & pine with both single & double bit axes, and I prefer the double for one reason - I use one side for chopping the tree & limbs. If I have any limbing work where I might possibly put the blade in the dirt, I use the other side. That keeps at least one side from getting nicked.

Good luck, and wear a good pair of boots!

I own the axe pictured above. Bought it at Lehman's in person about 5 years ago. Highly recommended! But be careful. Mine came so sharp, it cut through the leather guards!

[clovis]

I just did a search for 'double axe' under collectables on ebay, and got quite a variety, most reasonably inexpensive. I saw one older Craftsman that should hold an edge pretty well.

Most need handles, but that would be an easy fix.

Clove

[Randy Rooster]

About 20 years ago, I fond an old ax head in the woods behind my house. I fit a new handle to it, sharpened it up, and its been going strong ever since, even though it has some deep old rust pits.

the secret to a good axe is keeping it sharp. Not what you pay for it.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

i have a swedish carpenders axe ,it is like a large hatchet
i disagree that any 15-20 dollar axe will cut anything a 168 dollar axe will
maybe with enough time you will get thru the tree and a file or two
i am not sure you need to spend that much but unless you are getting a steal of a deal it will likely be more

what i the difference , Taper , hardness
you are comparing cheap drop fordged china steel with no taper and a 30 degree cutting angle put on with a rough grinder

and you are comparing it to a hand fordged steel with a drawn out edge with a good taper that is polished , hardend and precition sharpend to an edge comparable to a good hunting knife.

if they were the same i am sure all of the timber sports compeditors would run right down to Home depot and save them selves a few hundred dollars

however that being said hardware store axes do range from a dull hunk of metal resembling an axe head to quite usable
the big box special being junk most all the time . but an Ames True Temper michigan axe is not bad and only sets you back about 35 dollars there are also some others out there but be ware of china junk it is everywhere

but taper/ profile and edge are the major factors. to any cutting tool

[Quint]

Originally Posted by GREENCOUNTYPETE

however that being said hardware store axes do range from a dull hunk of metal resembling an axe head to quite usable
the big box special being junk most all the time . but an Ames True Temper michigan axe is not bad and only sets you back about 35 dollars there are also some others out there but be ware of china junk it is everywhere

but taper/ profile and edge are the major factors. to any cutting tool

There is a big difference in axes. A cheap one bought at Harbor Freight or Home Depot usually just doesn't cut as well as a quality ax no matter how sharp it is. There is far more to an ax than sharpness or even ability to hold and edge. There is more to cutting chips out of a tree and chopping it down than repeatedly bashing it with a sharp hunk of steel. A quality ax will do it more efficiently, do it safer, do it quicker and you won't be as tired after it's on the ground. Trying to chop down a tree with a poor quality, badly engineered ax is an exercise (and I do mean exercise) in frustration. I'd rather chop down 4 trees with a good, high quality ax than to chop down one with a clumsy piece of junk.

Like many "simple" tools, there is more than meets the eye and those "simple" tools are far more complex than they appear at first glance.

[Oggie]

I was going to suggest looking at a Gransfors Burk axe: http://www.gransfors.us/axes.html

But then, I looked up the current prices.

I bought a large splitting axe made by them several years ago. It's almost doubled in price. I think that the falling dollar and shipping costs are taking their toll.

For limbing axes, I usually look for one that's balanced and feels good. Then, I rework the blade with careful grinding and file to make it what I want.

The same should probably work for a felling axe.

[poorboy]

"snow and Neally" axes they have a good rep.:-)http://www.cspoutdoors.com/snowneallyaxes.html

[Sammy]

Don't know the cost, but this should get the job done.

[Riverdale]

Coming from a person who logged 3rd generation, your miles may vary....

I prefer a double bit Michigan style head (the beards are a tad bit longer).

Anything single bit with a thick poll will work well (using the weight of the head to help you).

Oh, and keep it sharp

[Jennifer L.]

If you wanna window shop: http://www.counciltool.com/category.asp?cat=AW

Jennifer