Metal Conduit or PVC pipe for a 15 foot high arbor? - Homesteading Today
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  #1  
Old 09/07/08, 07:47 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Western North Carolina
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Metal Conduit or PVC pipe for a 15 foot high arbor?

We want to put a high arbor over a back path, plant grapes and other vines on it. Purpose is to shade the back of house, hide two water tanks and yet still have grapes.

I need to build an arbor but did not want to use wood. A neighbor suggested the PVC pipes but I was not sure it would hold up in sun, the area does get full sun summer. The metal conduit pipes are more expensive but if I want it to last, seems that would be the best?

The length of the arbor would be about 30 feet long and since it is downhill a bit on one side, it would need to be about 15 to 18 feet high on the downhill side and only 12 to 14 feet on the upper side. We do not want to connect it to the house since the gutters are there and I did not want to nail anything to the roof.

Any suggestions? Thank you.

If anyone has photos to show of such an arbor that would be nice too. Thank you.
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  #2  
Old 09/07/08, 08:11 AM
flowergurl's Avatar  
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Location: KS
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How about using a galvanized welded hog panel. They make great arbors.
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  #3  
Old 09/07/08, 08:13 AM
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Location: KS
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http://www.bondpiano.com/Dirt2006/hogpanelarbor.html

Pictures of one.
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  #4  
Old 09/07/08, 08:15 AM
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: near Abilene,TX
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We used cattle panels and they worked great. I have honeysuckle growing on them.
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  #5  
Old 09/07/08, 08:54 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
Posts: 6,977
Quote:
Originally Posted by meanwhile View Post
We want to put a high arbor over a back path, plant grapes and other vines on it. Purpose is to shade the back of house, hide two water tanks and yet still have grapes.

I need to build an arbor but did not want to use wood. A neighbor suggested the PVC pipes but I was not sure it would hold up in sun, the area does get full sun summer. The metal conduit pipes are more expensive but if I want it to last, seems that would be the best?

The length of the arbor would be about 30 feet long and since it is downhill a bit on one side, it would need to be about 15 to 18 feet high on the downhill side and only 12 to 14 feet on the upper side. We do not want to connect it to the house since the gutters are there and I did not want to nail anything to the roof.

Any suggestions? Thank you.

If anyone has photos to show of such an arbor that would be nice too. Thank you.
30 ft. long you can forget about PVC,conduit or hog panels. You will need some strong support especially for all of that weight hanging on it. I've seen plenty of grape arbors like what you want, Most used galvanized water pipe. For that height you could use galvanized pipe, probably 1 1/2" to 2" for uprights set in concrete and then 1/2" to 3/4" pipe for the top supports.
Many families had an arbor like this in the back yard, usually with a picnic table under it. Made a nice shady spot in the summer.
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  #6  
Old 09/07/08, 09:04 AM
chickenista's Avatar
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Welded rebar would work nicely. You cold make some nice patterns or just leave it simple.
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  #7  
Old 09/07/08, 01:05 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Western North Carolina
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Thank you very much. The Hog panels look great. I will have to see who sells them around here.

Beeman: We went out and measured again this morning and the total length to cover would be closer to 39 feet. If we used the Hog Panels individually, would that help? Rather than tying them together? Or, if we used the galvanized pipe for uprights, then could we put the hog panels over it for the vines? Would that make it more sturdy?

Thank you and thank you for the pictures!
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  #8  
Old 09/07/08, 01:12 PM
Jennifer L.'s Avatar  
Join Date: May 2002
Location: New York bordering Ontario
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I did one with welded rebar, too. It's really nice painted, and you can do you own design for a personal look.

It also doesn't look the least bit "industrial". If it's right next to your house that might be a consideration.

Jennifer
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  #9  
Old 09/07/08, 01:15 PM
 
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Cool Aha!!!

Just one more good reason to come to this wonderful forum - someone always asks a great question and gets fantastic answers. On behalf of those who read this and then go out and "do it" Thanks!!
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  #10  
Old 09/07/08, 01:56 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meanwhile View Post
Thank you very much. The Hog panels look great. I will have to see who sells them around here.

Beeman: We went out and measured again this morning and the total length to cover would be closer to 39 feet. If we used the Hog Panels individually, would that help? Rather than tying them together? Or, if we used the galvanized pipe for uprights, then could we put the hog panels over it for the vines? Would that make it more sturdy?

Thank you and thank you for the pictures!
Hog panels or cattle panels are 16' long so the hoop you see is under 8' tall. On a flat horizontal you would have to support them overhead at least every 4 ft. I would check for metal scrap yards in the area, I don't know what town you're near. Years ago we got one of those awnings from the frt. of a store. it was one of the ones that went from the store frt. to the curb. The frame work was all galvanized pipe and made a great arbor.
Check places like northern hydraulic, they used to have fittings that would connect pipe to make frame work. If you used rigid conduit that might work, 15 ft. is still pretty high.
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  #11  
Old 09/07/08, 02:54 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Western North Carolina
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Thank you - actually now that I think it over and with the good tips from here, I am wondering if I could make it slanted......higher just on one side but slope then to the downward side to help make it more stable.

Thank you everyone.
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  #12  
Old 09/07/08, 07:39 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
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36' long but how wide i would use a heavy pipe at each end longways like a sill in a building and place other pipe or angle iron as a rafter patern pvc has a nice look cooler on the vines and actualy holds up well long rebar could be threaded thru the pvc to give a increase in rididity the pvc would tend to bend in high heat with a wheight load the rafter pattern could be arched for an increase in streanth without center suports . your area probably does not have the snow loads that the north has . another idea would be the arches desighned for low level green houses the pipe is ridgid and simply place up on a taller pipe than original design ma be cheeper than trying to get supplys otherwise
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  #13  
Old 09/07/08, 08:51 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Western North Carolina
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The width would be about 13 feet? That may be too wide for the pipes? I am trying to find more pictures online to go by. Thank you
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  #14  
Old 09/07/08, 09:08 PM
 
Join Date: May 2003
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The uprights if 15 feet tall would bend in a strong wind if less than a 3 inch schedule 40 pipe. This would increase the installation price but would last many years. I have a large scuppernong trellis that has held for a number of years and has been a great investment. I am currently enjoying the grapes as they are ripening. Scuppernongs are a great invest for southern growers. For those that do not know scuppernongs pls go here
http://www.isons.com/fruit.htm
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Last edited by agmantoo; 09/07/08 at 09:17 PM.
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  #15  
Old 09/07/08, 09:24 PM
chickenista's Avatar
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I agree, Agmantoo!!! My favorite thing on earth is a scuppernong or muscadine!! I love walking through the woods and smelling that heavenly scent as the sun hits the grapes...
And I can eat 'em!! I have been known to eat multiple pounds at a time... They never make it to jam or wine.
If you have never had any.. well worth the effort to get some shipped to you!!
Think of wine you can chew.
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  #16  
Old 09/08/08, 06:12 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Western North Carolina
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Agmantoo: do you have a picture of your trellis you can send me? Thank you and I did find that size pipe online at Lowe's but I think I will call around and try to find a lower price. thank you
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  #17  
Old 09/08/08, 09:49 AM
 
Join Date: May 2003
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A snafu occurred when I edited and it put both the original and the edited post in the reply and lost my original new post.
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Last edited by agmantoo; 09/08/08 at 10:57 PM.
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  #18  
Old 09/08/08, 09:50 AM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
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meanwhile,
I do not have a photo but I will try to take one within a few days. See if you can find used pipe. Try at a metal recycler. A little rust is fine for the project
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  #19  
Old 09/08/08, 10:47 PM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
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Here is a picture of my pinwheel shaped trellis made from schedule 40 pipe. From your original post I realize that you want to have a taller trellis but that is just a matter of design. This trellis is much larger than it appears, over 24 ft wide. Please excuse the grass under the trellis but I have been very busy with working on my pastures and my mower has a canopy and will not go under the trellis and it has to be mowed with a time consuming pusher. I made a picture of the fruit also so you could see the scuppernongs.

Metal Conduit or PVC pipe for a 15 foot high arbor? - Homesteading Questions

Metal Conduit or PVC pipe for a 15 foot high arbor? - Homesteading Questions
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Agmantoo
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Last edited by agmantoo; 09/08/08 at 10:52 PM.
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  #20  
Old 09/09/08, 07:54 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Western North Carolina
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Agmantoo! That is exactly what I need / want for the trellis! Thank you very much for taking the photos. The pasture is lovely too.

So - that size pipe is called "schedule 40" and that means it is thicker? If I need to go up 15 feet high, then would schedule 40 be the size to use?

I will have to price it now and see if it is less expensive than treated wood.
I wanted to use the metal for the looks but also because I do not think I can dig holes where it needs to go - too many roots. I was going to put the pipe in the ground as far as I could get it, then set a cement block on the bottom and cement in it?

Thank you very much for the photos. I appreciate it - actually, you have helped us a lot of time - thank you for all of the help.

(Side Note: Agmantoo: we used one of your plans for the two tank water system and have a jet pump set up on a barrel with a pipe going into each water tank! We put shut off valves on each pipe and the boys just hike down there and change the tank after about 45 minutes. For now, it works like a charm. We are still trying to get someone to help us set a big cement tank in the ground at the creek but that plan is taking a long, long, long time! Your ideas and help, and the help of several others here who helped us about the pumps and pressure, got us water for now and we thank you very much for it.)
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