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Old 08/21/08, 11:53 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ky
Posts: 55
Forester woodstove?

Hi all. I'm new here. I bought a Forester model 320 very cheap at a moving sale. Its in good shape. I do not have pictures. What concerns me it has no grate, or ash pan by design. It warns on the steel label not to use an grate. I was wondering if the stove would over heat with a shallow grate? I would like to get my thin shovel under it to remove ashes. Maybe a hotter burn. It has fire brick also.

Stove appears to be a very well built out of 1/4" steel. Has flat top with another flat step up on the flue end. 8"flue is horizonal out the back. fire box is around 34"deep X 17"high X 20" wide. The step up is another 9" up, and some sort of flue camber. This stove has plenty of cooking area if needed.

Anyone that may have this stove please give me your honest opinon on it.

I currently have electric heat, supplemented by a Brown sheet metal covered King wood stove with duct work going into the house from the garage. It just don't have the heat output I want. I bought it cheap 3 years ago.

I will have many questions as time goes on, and I also can be helpful with alot other things.

TIA, and God bless,
KyJeeper
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Old 08/21/08, 12:13 PM
Cabin Fever's Avatar
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Don't worry about the lack of a grate. Most air-tight woodburning stoves that I've seen don't have a grate. I've owned three in my lifetime, none of them used grates. It is important, however, to keep an inch of ash in the firebox.
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Old 08/21/08, 12:26 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ky
Posts: 55
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Originally Posted by Cabin Fever View Post
Don't worry about the lack of a grate. Most air-tight woodburning stoves that I've seen don't have a grate. I've owned three in my lifetime, none of them used grates. It is important, however, to keep an inch of ash in the firebox.
Thanks Cabin Fever, nice to meet you. I forgot to mention it was an airtight stove. Do you still use a Forester, or step on up to something better? What burn times could you get from the foresters?
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Old 08/21/08, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kyJeeper View Post
Thanks Cabin Fever, nice to meet you. I forgot to mention it was an airtight stove. Do you still use a Forester, or step on up to something better? What burn times could you get from the foresters?
I don't have a Forester. I've owned a Lopi, Fisher, and RSF Opel. Assuming a uniform box size, the brand of airtight doesn't have much effect on burn time. Airtight wood stoves are all essentially the same, a metal box with fire brick and air dampers. More recent woodstoves have air pollution devices which allow them to burn more efficiently. Burn time is primarily determined by wood specie, wood dryness, wood size (ie finely split versus whole log), wood load (ie, the amount of wood in the firebox), and air feed....not so much the brand of woodstove.
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Old 08/21/08, 01:08 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ky
Posts: 55
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Originally Posted by Cabin Fever View Post
I don't have a Forester. I've owned a Lopi, Fisher, and RSF Opel. Assuming a uniform box size, the brand of airtight doesn't have much effect on burn time. Airtight wood stoves are all essentially the same, a metal box with fire brick and air dampers. More recent woodstoves have air pollution devices which allow them to burn more efficiently. Burn time is primarily determined by wood specie, wood dryness, wood size (ie finely split versus whole log), wood load (ie, the amount of wood in the firebox), and air feed....not so much the brand of woodstove.
Growing up we would use what my dad called a "night stick" just Ky slang I guess. Anyway it would be green to slightly seasoned Hickory log just small enough to fit through the stove door. I use the same practice now. I usually get a 9hr burn time with a good amount of hot coals left. This is in the King stove though.


If can get that burn time with the Forester, I will be very happy.
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