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07/28/08, 12:12 PM
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Baroness of TisaWee Farm
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: flatlands of Ohio - sigh
Posts: 1,963
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I need internet resources for rough plumbing help
I've found all kinds of "plumbing for dummies" types of books, but they are mostly things about how to install a faucet, or fix a leak, etc. I need to find out how to start my plumbing from the get-go! I have a water line run to the house.....now what. That type of thing.
For instance....I'm doing the roof right now and I know that I need a vent pipe. I might as well put the pipe in NOW before I get to the shingles, but I don't know WHERE I need to locate a vent pipe. Also things about how to hook up a pressure tank. Etc.
Any web sites? Info??
Thanks!
CC
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07/28/08, 03:00 PM
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AFKA ZealYouthGuy
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NW Pa./NY Border.
Posts: 11,453
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Those time life plumbing books are pretty good.
Now, I will type somethings not to discourage you, but to make sure you don't end up costing yourself more in the long run.
Is your plumbing going to be up to code? If so, where were the vent pipes on the blueprints? You need a stack at least in the bathroom, but the real deal is you need to check your local code... and being that you are in NW Ohio (if I remember correctly) you definitely have local code you have to follow.
I just (today as a matter of fact) had all new PEX put in from my pump to all my cpvc fixtures going to all my outlets... but what does your county demand? Does your plumbing have to have an inspection? What kind of water heater are you going to have? (yes that's important, because if you use propane you will need exhaust chimney also). Are you using copper? CPVC? PEX?
What will pass your inspection? Does it need a certified plumbers stamp on your work?
We need a lot more information to be of any real help to you. You can get a lot of folks and even websites that will tell a certain way to do things, but that certain way, even if it works, may not be usable for you due to your local code. Let's take, for example, anti-scald faucets... are they mandatory where you live?
I hired my plumber to do what they did today, not because I couldn't do it, but because it took professionals 1/4 of the time it would have taken me and they used the PEX (which I don't have crimping tools for) that won't freeze and break, plus they eliminated all my old mish mash of stuff.
You can also check out: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hm_plu..._16804,00.html
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07/28/08, 03:24 PM
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Baroness of TisaWee Farm
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: flatlands of Ohio - sigh
Posts: 1,963
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Thanks for the reply.
Yes, I'm in NW Ohio. I may be terribly, terribly naive, but I don't think I am required to follow any code. There isn't a building code, I only needed a water and septic permit. As far as I know, I don't have to have anyone inspect anything.
I hired a plumber to put the jet pump in the well, but I ran the lines from the pitless adapter to my house myself. I used PEX.... I bought the tools. I figure I'll use them enough that it was worth it. (Gosh, it is EASY!)
I don't have much time right now, but I SURE don't have any money, so doing it myself is my only option. At least, if I want it done any time soon!
There isn't a blueprint. I designed the house and am building it from a cardboard model and scribbles on paper.
Water heater is electric. Plumbing will be pex.
I'll check out the website, thanks!!!!!!
So far, I've done everything a step at a time (or the details would drive me crazy). I've learned all I could about wells before I had one dug. The same with basements, framing styles, windows, etc. Now I'm up to the harder stuff like insulation (vapor barriers? iso?), electrical and plumbing. Sometimes it would have been nice to have the whole picture (for instance, deciding on the dormer BEFORE I started the roof!  ) but it's working out well and I'm enjoying the journey! The experience is invaluable!
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07/28/08, 03:41 PM
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AFKA ZealYouthGuy
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NW Pa./NY Border.
Posts: 11,453
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What county again?
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07/28/08, 04:04 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: lat 38° 23' 25" lon -84° 17' 38"
Posts: 3,051
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I'll second finding out what is required before you travel too far into it. It would suck to put your entire house together only to have a local authority show up with an order to demolish the building.
That being said, I found two good sources when I did the plumbing on my old house: my county library had a copy of the state plumbing code in their reference section, they also had a copy of the "CABO one and two family dwelling code" (here are some sources for it) http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/21268638
This is based on National Building Codes and is a reference for quite a few states.
Hope it helps you and saves you both some time and money in rework.
__________________
"Only the rocks [and really embarassing moments] live forever"
"When in the Course of human events it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bands..." tick-tick-tick
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07/28/08, 04:23 PM
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Failure is not an option.
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,623
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Hey.
You need to decide if your stinkpipe will be cast iron or plastic.
Use Google.
Bob Villa and This Old House site might be helpful.
When I did the roof on my last house, I put a lead boot over the cast iron stinkpipe to help cut back on rusting...at that time they came premade and ready to slip it over and nail down.
Look at roofing book for your vent pipe roofing info.
RF
__________________
It's not good enough that we do our best; sometimes we have to do what's required. - Winston Churchill
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07/29/08, 07:31 AM
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Baroness of TisaWee Farm
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: flatlands of Ohio - sigh
Posts: 1,963
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Hancock County. Blanchard Township. Some townships are zoned, but Blanchard isn't. I'm surprised, because there are LOTS of McMansions in the area and you'd think that not being zoned would make them too nervous to build out here.
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07/29/08, 08:07 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mid-Michigan
Posts: 1,526
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Well, you will probably want to use PVC for your drains as it is cheapest and the standard these days. You'll need at least one vent stack coming through the roof, usually this is placed as close to above the bathroom as possible, because the toilet needs the largest vent pipe. Everything else will connect in to the drain line below the toilet and the vent above the toilet. If you have two toilets usually there are two roof vents unless they are above one another. There are specific guidelines in the plumbing codes for line slope and spacing and levels to tie in the vents. I understand you are not under building inspection there but still abide by the codes so that your plumbing works properly.
Tauton press makes a line of books called 'for pros by pros" or something like that. I have found them to be very useful. See if they have a plumbing book. Should show you all the basics.
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07/29/08, 05:28 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky Fields
Hey.
You need to decide if your stinkpipe will be cast iron or plastic.
When I did the roof on my last house, I put a lead boot over the cast iron stinkpipe to help cut back on rusting...at that time they came premade and ready to slip it over and nail down.
RF
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Nothing wrong with cast iron DWV piping, or lead roof boots, but....... they cost a fortune and are about as far from beginner friendly as you can get. If you want to understand how to do the job properly, check Amazon for the "code check" plumbing guide. This is a spiral bound tutorial. It is designed to provide quick reference for everything from pipe sizes to how to layout supply, drain and vent systems. I got mine for $4 bucks. Great investment. If you follow the IRC code you end up with a system that will function well, without a lot of wasted cost or material. The other code "UPC" is a lot tougher, and really over complicates things. The only point to remember is that you cannot strickly follow the figures for supply piping calculations. You cannot generate the pressure or volume on a residential well to meet the requirements. Usually running 3/4" for a trunk and tapping off with 1/2" is a safe bet. Good luck on the PEX, it's great stuff.
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07/29/08, 05:41 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfabe
because the toilet needs the largest vent pipe. Everything else will connect in to the drain line below the toilet and the vent above the toilet. If you have two toilets usually there are two roof vents unless they are above one another. There are specific guidelines in the plumbing codes for line slope and spacing and levels to tie in the vents. I understand you are not under building inspection there but still abide by the codes so that your plumbing works properly.
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Actually IRC requirements specifically state that the toilet does not need to be vented. A "horizontal wet vent" arrangement for a typical bathroom calls for a vented stack for the vanity and possibly the tub/shower, depending on how long the "trap arm" is. The toilet can run any distance without a vent. The house must have one vent through the roof. In cold areas this vent must be a 3" or larger to prevent frost closure. There are cases where strickly following the code can result in a simpler cheaper installation than my previous "seat of the pants engineering" method of running drainage and vents. I typically ran too much venting, and stubbed too many vents through the roof. It's easy to over do a vent system. My first old "Fixer upper" house came with a totally unvented system, that was a case study in how do everything wrong. It worked great, with dozens of reasons it shouldn't have. Everything from an S-trap in the bathroom, to a kitchen drain that had no pitch at all, and not a single inch of vent pipe anywhere. Plumbing is both complex and easy. Good luck.
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07/30/08, 08:02 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central MN
Posts: 191
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I haven't found any internet resources to be as useful as a good book. I like many of the books from Taunton, Black and Decker has been publishing some good how to books lately too. Here's a plumbing book that I like: http://www.amazon.com/Plumbing-House...7422716&sr=8-2
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