How do You Sharpen a Chainsaw?

crashy · #1 03/23/08, 10:51 AM

Ok I need to know how to sharpen the ding dang chain saw. I knew there would be some folks here that knows how to do it the right way. Can you tell me your way ?

Gregg Alexander · #2 03/23/08, 10:54 AM

Get you a saw file that fits the chain size and draw across it several times. Takes a little practice but it is really not hard to sharpn a saw

Scrounger · #3 03/23/08, 11:02 AM

this might help:

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It...saw-Sharp.aspx

or

http://www.expertvillage.com/video/2...rpen-chain.htm

or

http://www.viewdo.com/now_viewing.php?id=753

jc12551 · #4 03/23/08, 11:18 AM

You can do it with practice. When I was young (10) that was my job on the logging team. That and to carry water.

TNHermit · #5 03/23/08, 11:45 AM

I use a file too. You can get them at Baileys.com. They also sell a little gizmo tha your file snaps into to help with the angle and keep it flat. About 4.00 I paint a tooth and go around till I get to that tooth. then turn the saw around and do the othe side. About 10 minutes if you haven't rounded off the teeth on the chain. then you need to grind it and keep it sharp

quietstar · #6 03/23/08, 11:57 AM

Be sure and get a good quality file. Makes all the difference...Glen

How Do I · #7 03/23/08, 12:01 PM

Best way to sharpen a chainsaw chain is to watch a professional do it a time or two. That's how I learned. As said above, it takes a little practice, but you can save a dime or two by learning to do it yourself.

Up North Louie · #8 03/23/08, 02:38 PM

TNHermit does what I do. But I'm not good at keeping a consistent angle, so I put the bar in a vise. That gives me a still bar, and an unchanging point of reference. This has helped me a lot. The gizmo that held the file to the right angle never helped me.

Don

tyusclan · #9 03/23/08, 04:37 PM

Unless the chain is extremely dull, you only need about two strokes per tooth per side. If it's really dull from hitting a nail or something, it may need 3 strokes.

The best time you can spend is to touch up the chain every time you fill the gas and chain oil.

If after you sharpen it a few times the cut starts to pull to one side, add a stroke to the opposite side next time you sharpen. In other words, if the cut starts pulling to the left, file two strokes to the left and three strokes to the right when you sharpen. This will pull the cut back straight.

newfieannie · #10 03/23/08, 05:00 PM

after my husband died i had to wait until my son came around to get the saw sharpened. i thought it would be too hard to do but i decided to try after losing too much time waiting. bought a good sharpener.watched my son for a little while . nothing to it really. i also find a vise makes it easier. ...Georgia.

quietstar · #11 03/23/08, 05:31 PM

Hey Georgia..I love a spunky lady that isn't afraid to step up and undertake what needs to be done. I think you may be one of those women that would have made your way on a covered wagon in pioneer times. Keep it up...Glen

DOlthaus · #12 03/23/08, 06:11 PM

Another possibility is to find a dremel bit the right size and use that. Much easier and only need a second or two on each tooth. I use the slowest setting on the dremel. Had a neighbor use a high setting and burned up the bit in no time.

Anyway, this works for me.

crashy · #13 03/23/08, 06:56 PM

Ok sounds easy enough I am going to give it a try and see what kind of damage I can do thanks everyone!!!

wyld thang · #14 03/23/08, 07:57 PM

Hey!

If you're a girl, put on a tank top and jeans and take your saw down to the Stihl dealer and ask them to show you how to sharpen the saw. Lean over to get a good view.

Nothing wrong with greasing the wheel, eh?

My hub uses a dremel in the garage and a file out in the trees. It's easier to keep sharpening it frequently than let it get really dull. If it's really dull it will start going wonky and screw up the bar. Keep it out of the dirt, or buy a trash saw to cut stuff in the dirt.

Dont' know if you're just starting, but when my hub showed me how, I started on the trash baby Poulon, I could barely hold onto it vibrated so bad and was just hard to use. THen I picked up his bigger Stihl and it cut like butter and was easy to hold. Just like the difference between my ttr 125 and wr250 dirt bikes. SIze matters ;0)

have fun! be safe!

PA_MIKE · #15 03/23/08, 08:28 PM

"You can get them at Baileys.com."
Hey hermit ..... Does that come with Peach or Irish Cream?

TNHermit · #16 03/23/08, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PA_MIKE

"You can get them at Baileys.com."
Hey hermit ..... Does that come with Peach or Irish Cream?

MY bad!!

Should be http://www.baileysonline.com/

But you could always sip the other while your sharpening

Heres another ink for diamond stones for a dremel I've used them occasionally. Work pretty good

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43086

fixer1958 · #17 03/23/08, 08:38 PM

For me it is a vise and the correct size of file.
Two strokes of the right angle and you are there.

I use the doohicky that holds the file so the depth is right.
Angle of the dangle is the key.

I see no need to use a file in the field if you keep the chain out of the dirt.
Thats as good as hitting a rock in a stump.
A new chain will last me 4 cords before it needs to be touched up a little cutting mostly hedge.

PA_MIKE · #18 03/23/08, 08:51 PM

Thanks for the link...

I purchased an electric sharpener from Harbor Freight. I can not seem to get it to sharpen right. Anyone have any tips for an electric sharpener?

tyusclan · #19 03/24/08, 06:39 AM

One thing I forgot to mention, and I haven't seen anyone else mention, is that occasionally you need to "knock down" the rakers. That's the little tip that sticks up in front of each cutting tooth. As the cutter cuts the chip out the raker behind it "rakes" it out of the kerf.

You should have small chips of wood coming out of your kerf. When it starts looking more like sawdust than chips, your rakers are too high and need to be filed down below the cutter just a little.

There is a gauge you can get to tell you exactly how much to file, but they're more trouble to use than they're worth to me. I always just take a flat file and hit a few strokes across the top of each one. It'll have kind of a rounded point when you start. Just flatten that point a little and you should be fine.

Edited to add: It's really important to me to keep the chain sharp instead waiting till it's dull to sharpen it. Your saw engine needs to cool for at least two minutes before refilling the gas tank, and it only takes five to touch up the chain. By keeping the chain sharp this way, you put less stress on the engine, the chain runs much cooler, which also reduces stretching, and you don't have to work as hard either. That few minutes each fueling will save you time, money and effort everywhere else.

Hooligan · #20 03/24/08, 08:08 AM

I remember how frustrating it was for me to keep my chains sharp when I first started out.

Started with a file and a guide and just couldn't seem to get a good cut no matter how careful I was.

I then got a sharpening kit for my dremel. Now I could grind the heck out of the chain and get a good cut but I was having to take of more metal then I should have.

Eventually I gained the exeperience neccesary and I could do a good job on the chains very quickly.

Then one day the dremel was in the basement and rather then track through the house to get it I picked up the file and tried that again.

Now I use just a file with no file guide and can do a good job in a short time.

The moral of this story for me is, patience and experience is what it takes.

I'll also second the need to file the rakers every so often. Makes a a big difference as the control the depth of cut and clean ou the cut for the next tooth. I use a raker guide and flat file.