Ideas for heat loss around windows?

[RandB]

We live in a brick house about 40 yrs. old. It has the original windows, with original storm windows also. I have been noticing this winter a lot of cold comes in around these windows. With our heating prices sky-high, I would like to do something to stop this source of heat loss. New windows would be nice, but won't be in the budget anytime soon. Next spring we will re-caulk all around them, but can't do that now in the winter. We need something simple we can do right now to help. I'm thinking maybe we can make some kind of lightweight frames the same size as the windows, with a couple layers of some kind of plastic, to put up on the inside. Has anyone done something like this, or have other ideas?

[Maura]

You can buy plastic sheets made for windows. We used them in a different house. You put up the sheet with double sided tape that comes in the kit, cut to size, and use a hair dryer to shrink the plastic. Works very well. You may be able to refit your present windows so the window frames are tight to the house.

[Wisconsin Ann]

the plastic sheets, yup. creates a good barrier.

You can use GreatStuff type foam that's made for windows. It's made to NOT expand so much that it pushes windows out of whack, and can be used down to -20F or something absurd like that. I just foamed the windows in the shed with it.

Another idea, that would be pulled out when you calk in the spring, is a self adhesive rubbery gasket that comes in white or grey (maybe brown), comes in a roll of something like 30' for 2.49. comes in varying heights, so you can fill in whatever is needed. It's found with the other weatherstripping in a hardware store (or Home Depot like place)

[sage_morgan]

It's possible that the OP meant the air was coming in the outer edges of the window, where it meets the wall, as that's where I'm losing heat/gaining cold air, as well.

Double-sticky tape and plastic film within the window frame won't touch that, but the weatherstripping will, thanks for the idea.

[Alice In TX/MO]

You can put the sticky tape on the wall, and cover the whole window space. We did this in our cabin in the Ozarks. Worked like a charm!

[Puddin]

I put the double sided sticky tape on the wall, and stretch the film over it all, shrink with a hair dryer.
Another thing I will consider using (next year) is that bubble plastic wrap, between the shrink wrap and my window. Then I will still be able to get sunlight in my place... seeing out won't be so great. But, the bubble wrap will insulate somewhat the window as well....
Gloria

[haypoint]

Windows, even insulated glass windows, lose a lot more heat than walls. Caulk stops the air infiltration, but a lot simply transfers thru the glass.
If you have some windows that you don't use to look out, try this. Cut sheets of one inch or two inch Dow Board styrofoam about an inch smaller than the wondow frame. Glue a strip of foam rubber around the edges. You can pretty it up by adding cotton cloth around it. Shove it into the window opening and the window will be as insulated as the rest of your house.

[whistler]

Originally Posted by RandB

Next spring we will re-caulk all around them, but can't do that now in the winter. We need something simple we can do right now to help.

Real silicone can be applied in temperatures to -35 F. No reason not to do that this winter.


Whistler

[Immaculate Sublimity]

Originally Posted by whistler

Real silicone can be applied in temperatures to -35 F. No reason not to do that this winter.


Whistler

as someone who's owned a replacement window company for going on 22 years I can attest to that fact... we live in Michigan, it gets cold... we caulk windows daily... get a good quality silicone, use it at room temperature. it'll help ... a lot. just make sure the surface is DRY and you're good to go.

[Cabin Fever]

In a place I used to live, I used those 3M shrink-to-fit plastic indoor window covering. You have no idea how much of a difference those sheets of plastic can make until you try them. They are crystal clear and you barely even notice that they are there.

[baldylocks]

I have replaced windows in two houses now and in both cases, I removed the trim around them and found no insulation. The walls all around were insulated but in the area immediately behind the trim, there was nothing. You might be able to do a little good from the inside...

[Gailann Schrader]

Bubble Wrap. Cheap and effective.

Oh, and I was working with some and laid it across the TV screen? You can see right through it.

Exactly like the pixellation of the TV screen...

'cept bigger bubbles...

...love my bubble wrap on the windows. But don't use duct tape. It's ugly.

[susieM]

Originally Posted by Gailann Schrader

Bubble Wrap. Cheap and effective.

Oh, and I was working with some and laid it across the TV screen? You can see right through it.

Exactly like the pixellation of the TV screen...

'cept bigger bubbles...

...love my bubble wrap on the windows. But don't use duct tape. It's ugly.

I use a staplegun.

[Hooligan]

I was wandering through the hardware store the other say and noticed and plastic window covering film for which you could also buy plastic strips that fasten to the framing. You lay the film over the strips and fasten it with clips that you tap into the strips.

Very simliiar to a method we used to make double glazed greehouse panels with extruded aluminum framing.

The beauty is that after the initital installation of the strips it is very easy to put up the plastic next winter.

Having said all that and being a cheap skate, I went with the double sided tape and "regular" plastic.

[Windy in Kansas]

Do yourself a favor--pull off the storm window then the outside trim around the window using extreme care not to damage it.

Once the window frame is exposed you can see just how little insulation there is if any at all. If you can get by without windows weights (should your windows use them), remove them a foam fill the cavities and all around the window.

Reapply the trim with the proper nails, fill the holes, and then reinstall the storm windows. A couple of old ice picks through the screw holes work well to hold it in its proper place until the first screws hold it.

This can be done on a nice day in winter if supplies are purchased in advance.
Many cans of foam use moisture in the air to activate it. I found that spraying the wood with water made quite a difference in the foam expanding time.

You will also find a great noise reduction as a result in addition to sealing out the cold air.

One of these devices should allow you to remove window weights and still hold the windows up.
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/8071813
http://www.unique-balance.com/buy.html
http://www.mightonproducts.com/catal...bc52557e35c5b6

[pixelphotograph]

i use bubble wrap as well.
can buy it from places like home depot or lowes or staples or office depot
Or if you get alot of packages sometimes theres enough in there.
LOL
Works good lets light in and keeps wind out.

[Shawna]

Don't forgo curtains as a cheap *helper* with window loss. I really nicely lined curtain helps tremendously with what air you feel inside the room. We get all of our wind out of the west, which hits our bedroom windows and it can get C*O*L*D in there (and we even have new windows). So, we hung lined curtains in there. BIG difference. You can stick your hand between the curtain and window and it's probably a good 20 degrees colder in between there. They are a light color so that we still get light in there, but they are a heavy fabric and lined.

Just thought I'd throw that in the mix

Good luck!
Shawna

[Windy in Kansas]

Originally Posted by Shawna

You can stick your hand between the curtain and window and it's probably a good 20 degrees colder in between there.Shawna

I would like to ask if the cold air follows the curtains downward and comes out near the floor instead of just radiating into the room.

Sounds like they work well, just wondering if the bottoms should also somehow be blocked?

[Shawna]

Originally Posted by Windy in Kansas

I would like to ask if the cold air follows the curtains downward and comes out near the floor instead of just radiating into the room.

Sounds like they work well, just wondering if the bottoms should also somehow be blocked?

Doesn't seem to...they kind of butt up against the bottom of the windowsill. The curtains are about 6" longer than the window, so I think that helps. I guess if they were right at the window bottom, that may happen more (cold air coming out the bottom of the curtains).


Shawna

[Windy in Kansas]

Thanks Shawna. I'm due for drapery replacements so will keep this in mind.